Shifter issues pt#2
 

First things first. Thanks to everyone for the advise given. I now must say that I can adjust the shifter with my eyes closed. I know I am doing it right and I removed the coupler again just to see if anything looked out of wack, everything looks good in my opinion. I removed the shifter and found that the white plastic cup that is attached to the bottom of the shifter is very loose. When I reattached it and put it in 4th. i have a good 1/4 " of play front to rear in the cup itself. At the knob its about a good inch if not more. I will order a new one tomm. but wonder if this could cause her to keep jumping out of 4th gear. Again thanks to all that reply. And if worse comes to worse and it is a syncro does anyone know any shop that is just south of Chicago. Believe it or not my guy passed away about five months ago and I don't have a clue as to where to take my car.

How is the shift rod? Is it possibly lose where the small part meets the larger part?

Just wait 'til the new ball cup bushing is installed. There is a very good chance this will solve the problem.

I did the ball cup bushing and the ring type bushing that goes in the shift-rod guide ring/flange thing. Doing them at the same time saves time and gives you a nice shifter for a good while. They are cheap, too. I thought you had already replaced the bushings.

Scott
My shift rod is the same size from top to bottom, Im a little lost on this question.

Flieger
No the only thing I replaced were the rear coupler bushings. Believe it or not the old ones were pushed in from the outside. They looked like new and had no damage so I pressed out the pin and installed them the right way. I will be replacing both bushings.

Just wait for the front stuff then assess.

Still sounds like adjustment to me but you'll know more once you've fresh bushings up front.

Best,

Actually the end that fits into the ball is a separate piece, and it gets loose.

EDIT: To check this move the rear coupler with one hand, and watch the front ball assy.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/..._shift_rod.jpg

I have mine apart right now waiting on the bushing KIT from the sponsor and my set up doesnt not look like that diagram you provided, not exactly anyway. How are you pressing your pin in and out of your coupler. I heard it can be very hard to get out. I too thought you had the kit from our sponsor that has a new cup bushing. That just mine fix it.

Scott
Mine doesn't look like the above diagram.

KWM
What I did was use two sockets. I forget the size but the larger fit on the coupler and I used a smaller short one that fit right on the pin. I placed it in a vice and once I got it to move I used a deep well smaller socket to finish pushing the pin in. Reinstalled in reverse order.

I think that diaphragm was for a G-50.

There are tons of threads on the 915 type shifters, couplers, etc. to keep you busy while you wait for parts.

The picture is of just the rod, ignore the surrounding stuff, the end joint on the SC's is epoxyed in, and at first glance doesn't look like two separate pieces, don't be fooled. Mine broke and was doing what yours is, could never be adjusted correctly. If you look at the picture the bolt that clamps the rod sits on the smaller piece, you can't see it with the rod installed in the ball. I hope its not the case that its lose, its a pain to fix.

emac, that was pretty creative I hope it did not damage the sockets. Do you have cover on the jaws of your vice? I dont even have a vice so I guess I will have to get one or check with the neighbor. Although I have been needed a vice so this is a good excuse.

Scott
Looking at your photo, the rod in red is the part, right? Second should I be looking at the front of the rod where you cup bushing goes into. And last I would assume that I have to pull the entire shaft out to see what you are talking about correct?
If I loosen the pinch nut that holds the shifting rod to the rear coupler and hold the shifter while I move the shaft from the rear if broke would I see it then.

Again thanks

KWM

Didnt damage the sockets. The first try I had two deep well. Too unstable in the vice. Thats when I used the larger deep well on the body of the coupler and a shorter socket on the pin. Once it started to move I used the longer socket to push it into the larger socket. Really quite easy.

You would see it then yes, it sort of lags behind the movement if its lose. And you can see the rod end by removing the rear coupler and sliding the rod out of the ball housing. The only time you have to remove the entire shaft is IF you need to fix it, and that involves jacking the transaxel up and sliding the rod out.