axle removal for cv boot replacement
 

Im outside trying to remove the axle to replace the CV Boot. I got the end off on the trans side but how do I get it off the trailing arm side. From what I'm reading in the Bentley it just says to "DRIVE" it off, but it doesn't say how.

Whats the safe technique - BFH?

If your 86 is like my 88, no screws in the CVs at the wheel side, then you must remove the axle nut to pull the drive shaft & CV out of the wheel hub. That nut is (should be) tight - 330 lb-ft torque at install. You may need 3/4" drive breaker bar with a long pipe (or use jack handle) & stand on it.

This should answer most of your questions. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/306184-carrera-cv-boot-replacement.html?highlight=carrera

Prepare to get greasy!:D

I just did all of this and there is a thread about a mile long.... covers a lot on how to get the bearing in and out and more importantly if you are changing the bearing..there are some details on the bearing you can decide on the bearing seal type you want.

To get the big nuts off I used a 1/2" air impact wrench and it just about was not enough.... had to use mapp gas on one of the nuts. I also sprayed some PB Blaster on the nuts 3 days earlier.
To put the nut back on I purchased a 3/4" 32mm 6 side flank drive impact socket for $13 from some place on the web.. and I borrowed a 3/4" 0-600ft-lb torque wrench - the brakes just about won't hold the 330 ft-lbs. Also consider buying a 1/2" female to 3/4" male adapter so you can use the 32mm with 1/2" drivers.

I ended up cleaning out the cv's on the axle side and regreasing... what a freaking mess.

Remember if you drive out the hub.. you have ruined the bearing. The axle should just slide out. Don't panic if you feel the hub is a bit loose as if the bearing is bad... it may be bad and may not be.. the inner races can separate a bit when the big nut lets go.

Good post. I read through it but I'm still not 100% clear. From what I'm reading, in order to change the CV Boots I will need to. . .

1. remove the 6 nuts that holds axle to the tranny
2. remove the big axle nut
3. put axle in vice

here's where I get confused, do I need to. . .

4a. tap off BOTH caps - front and back - to the CV Joint cloests to the tranny

or. . .

4b. Just one of the caps.

4. Take the circlip off (this make me think the outter cap HAS to come off to get CV joint off, but if I take the cap off wont the innards of the CV Joint come out?

5. Pull off CV joint

6. put new boots and bands on and reassemble.

7. tourque down all nuts - though I'm not sue wher to find a tourque wrench that goes up to 340 lbs/pounds.

I'm not real sure re. on the axle side as my car 1989 has cv integrated into the axle asm.
so on the tranny side...

you need both caps but only one cap comes in the kit... so be careful tapping off the "inside" cap, keep it straight

re. torque.. use the persons weight x lever arm method - you may break 1/2" tools.

Sometimes its necessary to begin the job before all information makes sense.
Simply drop the trans portion down from its mount location, and slide out the axle shaft.

Ok this confuses me more - I have dropped the axle shaft and I can't pull out the end that goes into the wheel end. I don't have to remove the nut?

before I get you more confused.. let's confirm that your axle design is the type where the wheel side has the integrated axle and cv.. in other words there are no 6 bolts over on the wheel side... right or no?

no six bolts - just an axle nut

ok, good.. what parts of the axle do you want to replace?

all boots?
just the trans cv and its boot?

IMO it is best to do this on the bench.. so you have to take the big 32mm nut off then the axle slides easily out...

do you want to replace the rear bearing there or keep it?

remove the hubcap, pull the e/brake hard, leave car on the ground, insert socket through the hubcap hole and use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4 ft pipe over the handle to loosen. remove lower shock bolt and pull out axle. it's suggested to replace the big nut, but your call.

I thought that removing the nut was a given...My apologies.
Yes, definitely remove the axle nut, otherwise you wont be pulling the axle shaft.

This is just a CV Boot operation. Only the tranny side boot is ripped but I'm replacing both while I'm in there - and inspecting the CV Bearings. My question (once the axle is on my work bench) is once I remove the CV cover (the cover that mates to the tranny), and then remove the circlip, do I need to remove anything else to remove the CV joint or does it just pull off?

I put the axle in the vise with a sock around it...

you might want to first start with trying to hold the tranny cv body and tap off the cap. The cap is not on real tight... but it is hard to hold the cv body.

then put in vise.
- take off clip
- take off both Otiker clamps.. you might be able to save them for some reason...
- pull back boot
- tap off the cv using a punch and small hammer, try not to tap in just out, don't damage the two hole cap.. you will need it
- pull off the boot

now you are ready to do the wheel side
- take off Otiker clamps
- pull off boot
- now what are you going to do? here is where it gets fun

at that point you either scoop out some amount of grease and put some new back in or
clean out all the grease (what I did) and put new back in.
The "cap" on the axle side does not come off unless you destroy it... so don't even try, there is no replacement part number. There seems to be a hidden ridge under the edge..so if you try to get in there with a chisle (sp?) it doesn't work or at least didn't work for me.

This means you will be washing out the balls/etc. through a smaller than wanted opening... but it is not that bad... mineral sprits seemed to work well and then follow with multiple carb cleaner and brake cleaner.. have a way to blow it all out and dry... before the balls get rusty.

then start packing grease in... I used the grease that came with the cv's because it seemed easier to push down in there compared to the Redline I used for the tranny side cv's.

does this help?

redcoupe.. are you ok? Are you making way on the project?

Good comments hcoles.

I would get the info first THEN go to work (vs. comments above to get info later)..

How's the project coming?

Best,

I hope I did not offend redcoupe.. I hope he is ok getting this done...
feel free to comment on technical info. or communication style... maybe the post "now what are you going to do" was not the best communcation style...

It's going pretty good guys - thanks for the help. I got the axle off with a little help from my friends "propane" and "impact wrench". The six foot long breaker bar wasn't cutting it. Once the nut came off the axle took some light tapping to convince it to come out. I took it over to the workbench and tapped of the CV joint cover in no time at all. I scooped a lot of the old grease out to get at the circlip. That came off with no problem as well. Now the CV joint off the axle was another story. If definately didn't want to just pull out. So I clamped the axle in the vice with a cloth wrapped around it and tapped the inncer CV joint with a punch until it popped off the axle. I removed the boot and cleaned the end of the axle. When I get my two CV boot kits in I'll remove the other boot at that time. Messin' with that grease is dirty buisness.

I'll have to let you know how the install goes. My biggest concern is getting the CV joint back on the axle since it was so stubborn to come off.

Again, thanks for the help.