I think I broke it? Post-ignitor install.

[jasonmx5]

Yesterday I tried installing a Pertronix ignitor in my distributor. I thought all was going well and had read up on all the relevant threads to ensure I was wiring and installing things properly. I put everything in it's place and tried firing up the car - nothing - turns over but doesn't catch.

To ensure it wasn't a bad module, I put everything back to factory, set the points and tried again - I did get it to catch once, but had to hold the throttle at about 1/2 way just to get it to stay running (poorly - if I don't hold the throttle it sputters for about 5 seconds and dies) - so basically, it's still not running.

I did remove the distributor in order to install the ignitor module, but marked everything and double-checked that everything appeared in place. If it is running as described above - rough but running at half throttle - could it be that I am just off a tooth when I re-installed the distributor?

[ossiblue]

Sounds definitely like a possible distributor misalignment. Did you set your engine to TDC and was the rotor in the distributor pointing to the #1 plug wire (notch on the distributor body) before you pulled it? You did say you marked it's position, but was that the position of the distributor body relative to the engine case? Try slight adjustments of the distributor shaft before you get too upset.

Set your engine to TDC mark on the pulley (be sure the #1 cylinder is TDC--you can check by removing the spark plug and inserting a long straw into the hole. move the pulley and notice the straw move. It should be at its highest point when the pulley mark matches the mark on the fan shroud. Oh yeah, only hand crank the engine in a clock-wise direction!).

Look at the rotor in the dizzy. Is it pointing to the notch in the body? If not, that's your non-start problem, most likely. Now is the time to take it out and reinstall the Petronix unit. Carefully put the dizzy back with the rotor pointing to the notch, and all should be good.

[jasonmx5]

My first thought was that somehow I was at TDC on #4 instead of #1. I did rotate the crank around 360 back to Z1 and re-inserted the distributor with the rotor to the #1 notch. That's when it caught, but ran terribly (almost not at all). Hoping I'm just off a tooth.

[tmctguer]

jasonmx5:

where are you connecting the red wire to get power to the pertronix points?

I am about to start the same project and want to make sure I get the red wire connected properly.

Good luck on the timing issue.

[waynesco1]

When you return the stock contact set back into the dist / remember this contact set only acts as a trigger for cd box . the contact set rarely pit thus are very reliable/When you throw out 1 hundred bucks for a ad that sucks you into thinking wow this has to be a hot set up . when you should LEAVE THAT THING BE IT WORKED till you hopped it up/ tell us how for you throw tha piece of junk into the woods!

[jasonmx5]

Originally Posted by tmctguer

jasonmx5:

where are you connecting the red wire to get power to the pertronix points?

I am about to start the same project and want to make sure I get the red wire connected properly.

I had it connected to a switched power source on the fuse box in the engine compartment. See below for diagram that I found on these forums. Most folks say #2 in the thee-fuse pannel is switched, but on my car, it was #1 (pesky euro model!)

[jasonmx5]

OK. So I've got the distributor back in and aligned properly (I think) but now I physically can't adjust it to 5 deg. ATDC. The bracket and stud don't allow me to turn the distributor clockwise far enough. The car is running at TDC, but I've got a little backfire when lifting off the throttle.

Not sure how I ended up at this allignment dilema, because when I removed everything, I had plenty of room to swing the distributor in either direction.

Advice?

[cgarr]

You can pull the dizzy up and turn the rotor on tooth then you should have adjustment.

[jasonmx5]

Alright. Got everything up and running - and with the ignitor installed now. Everything seems to be running well - where the timing would fluctuate somewhat with points, it seems to be much more consistent and smooth with the Pertronix unit. Will keep the points handy just in case.

[RoninLB]

I ran my pretronix wires to a connector buss so it screws on/off for a quickie r&r with a spare. Spare is less work than points on the side of the road.

[tmctguer]

RoninLB or JasonMX5: any chance either of you would post a photo of your Pertronix connections? i am interested in RoninLB's wiring buss but also exactly how JasonMX5 spliced the connections for the red/black wires.

thanks.

[johndglynn]

Originally Posted by waynesco1

the contact set rarely pit thus are very reliable/When you throw out 1 hundred bucks for a ad that sucks you into thinking wow this has to be a hot set up . when you should LEAVE THAT THING BE IT WORKED till you hopped it up/ tell us how for you throw tha piece of junk into the woods!

Contact points are old tech and should be junked, that fibre cam rider is a total PITA for wearing and costing bhp. Pertronix is the first thing you should fit to a points-equipped car, complete no brainer.

Good move Jason, the ignitor has made a big difference to my C3, reliable as night following day

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by tmctguer

post a photo of your Pertronix connections? .

I use dielectric at all connections.

Connectors are soldered.

wire wrap is www.Waytekwire.com double wall shrink tube. It looks factory stock.

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by johndglynn

Contact points are old tech and should be junked, that

it's different strokes for different folks.

Adding more electronics to the ignition system doesn't exactly get me excited but so far so good with the pertronix in 100+F desert runs with huge heat soak after shut down.

[johndglynn]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

it's different strokes for different folks.

I dunno Ron. Having started working on cars with points 25 years ago, I changed the points once in my then new-to-me C3 and immediately bought a Pertronix when the gap closed up 500 miles later. I don't see it as adding electronics, more losing superceded technology in favour of a modern and reliable fit-and-forget solution. All good this end.

[tmctguer]

thanks for the photo, RoninLB !!