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RetroAir Evaporator Fan Install

I've been sitting on this for awhile. I finally got to a point where I could install the Retro Air Upgraded Evaporator Fan. I didn't remove my evaporator case but given that my Bentley manual was of almost no use I dug up some photos posted by Hugh R to make sure I was getting all of the clips off so I could just remove the top. I wasn't sure if there was one behind the Evap case. These photos show that there are only four clips holding the top on to the case and only one of them is on the rear.




Once I got the top off and out of the smugglers box I noticed a bead of what looks like plummer's puddy all around the top. I'm pretty sure it didn't come from the factory that way.



I scraped it all out with a flathead screwdriver. And the old fan was ready to be pulled.





The Stock fan is held on my an allen head screw.



Next I did a test fit of the plate provided by retro air. It went in pretty snug.



Then I used a bit of black liquid weather stripping epoxy. I didn't want to use anything too strong in case this motor failed and a replacement (other than stock) couldn't be found (10 years down the road).



I put on just a bit more epoxy all around the plate to ensure an airtight seal.

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Tom Hutchinson
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Old 05-24-2008, 04:23 PM
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Next I predrilled the holes for the screws that hold the plate to the top & the temp sensor. I then use the stock screws a few extra washers and a bit of blue locktight to firmly attach the plate.
The real and possible only downside here is that you must remove the entire top now to remove the two mounting brackets that hold the entire case in the smuggler's box. The stock plate had a place in it to hold each nut so you could loosen the bolts and remove the brackets if you wished. Not too big a deal but worth mentioning.


After several test fits I figure out where the hose clamp should go and firmly attached the fan to the new housing. It is a bit scary that that is all that is keeping the fan in place. It seems good enough but I like the stock clamp mounting system a bit more.


I then did some more test fits and attached the fan to the motor. I used a bit of blue lock tight there as well.


I then predrilled the fan mounting screw holes, drilled the holes use a bit more epoxy to help hold those screws in place. I also used some wire ties tied to the fan housing to keep all of those wires from rubbing the evaporator fins. Fingers crossed she's ready to go back in. I think everything so far was the easy part.



I'm going to tackle putting in back in tomorrow.
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Last edited by khamul02; 05-24-2008 at 04:49 PM..
Old 05-24-2008, 04:40 PM
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Well I got it all together and put in the car when I hit a wiring snag. You need to know how the stock fan control wires are colored to connect them to the Retroair fan.

Red/green = low fan speed
Red/black = medium fan speed
Red/white = high fan speed
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Tom Hutchinson
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Old 06-07-2008, 08:47 AM
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Just to sum up this thread. This fan upgrade is incredible. It has made my 50 degree vent temp freeze me out of the car at the highest setting. I can't wait until I get the system blowing in the 30's. I should have a traveling meat locker
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Tom Hutchinson
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:52 AM
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Do you mean it blow stronger? or much stronger?
May I ask why you are replacing it? Was the stock one broken?
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:48 PM
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If it blows more, is it also louder? I would assume so, but it would be nice if it wasn't.

Thanks
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Old 07-07-2008, 03:19 AM
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I second the question about is the new fan noisier, the same, or quieter than the old one?

erik dorsch
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Old 07-07-2008, 03:35 AM
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In terms of noise, I would say it is about the same as the old fan. My old fan did work perfectly I just wanted a bit more power on the first setting and this upgrade does just that.

I would say each setting is equivalent to the next highest setting with 3 being like a shop fan
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Tom Hutchinson
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:15 AM
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Does anyone have a phone number for retro aire?
I did a google search and can't find it.
Old 07-07-2008, 03:26 PM
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I just found the number, never mind.
Old 07-07-2008, 03:31 PM
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Tom, do you want to sell you stock motor?
Ben
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Old 07-07-2008, 05:21 PM
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Tom,
Great pictures and explaination.
Thanks!
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:15 PM
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Tom, do you happen to know the RPM on that new motor of yours?
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Old 07-07-2008, 07:20 PM
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Ben, sorry to get back to you so late. I do have the stock motor if you want it (how's 30 + shipping).

rnln, I'm not sure what the rpm is. I would guess it is whatever the stock motor is plus a third.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:03 AM
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Can anyone tell me what to use to seal the evap. cores inlet and outlets to the case or is it possible to salvage the old "stuff".

Thanks Lorne M.
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:23 AM
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Hi Lorne,
It is called cork tape. You can get it at most AC places. I wouldn't use the old stuff.

Tom, thanks for the pics. I installed my retroair fan this weekend and they helped a lot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LM3929 View Post
Can anyone tell me what to use to seal the evap. cores inlet and outlets to the case or is it possible to salvage the old "stuff".

Thanks Lorne M.
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Last edited by mppickett; 09-01-2008 at 04:38 PM..
Old 09-01-2008, 04:35 PM
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I used some new stuff supplied by rennaire and some of the old stuff.

Mike, Are you pleased with the results? My vents temps are only 50 but with this fan I'm pretty happy. I'm going to do yet another x valve replacement to try to get them to 40 or so. But I can definitely say I'm pretty satisfied with things as they are.
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Old 09-01-2008, 05:51 PM
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Retro-aire Blower Motor Install...

I recently completed the installation of Retro-aire's upgraded blower motor. It's a great unit, fits well, but I think the directions are poorly done and some important steps are left to the discretion of the installer.

First and foremost, you better just decide to remove the entire evaporator box as a unit. Even if you get the lid off, you're not going to get the clips back on while the lower half of the box is still in the smugglers box. Just go to your friendly A/C shop and have them evacuate the system and remove the whole shooting works. Now you can really do some good and replace the evaporator while the box is out.

You'll notice that Rock doesn't make the connecting wires long enough to get the 3 prong plug out of the box, also he doesn't discuss a method for attaching the two body brackets, plus the directions do not remind you to drill a hole for the capillary tube before assembling the top lid.

Here's a pix for installing nut plates so you can remove the brackets before removing the box if you take it out again in the future. I'm close to having my system up and running, once that is completed I will post a complete tech tip with pixs that will include the installation of the ProCooler.

My system is putting out plenty of cold air, but the system is freezing up due to wrong numbers the shop used in re-charging my system. Also I believe I had a faulty temp switch. Griffiths Air was nice enough to furnish a Pressure and Temp chart and a new temp switch with his compressor panel indicator light. Hopefully this will tie it all together...
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:18 PM
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Man I wish I had your problem. Too cold is pretty easy to fix.
I noticed Griffiths was quick to follow suite with a fan upgrade.
I wish someone would give us an upgrade in the front condenser area.
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Tom Hutchinson
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:42 AM
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Tom,

I think Griffiths addressed the problems of space constraints that doesn't allow room for a larger fan or motor in an earlier post. His solution was a more efficient condenser. I'm sure you can make a case for that since the serpentine evaporators makes a big difference, then it follows the same technology for the condenser would give you another improvement.

I've wondered if you could have some kind of a sheet metal duct with a lip slightly below the bumper that would force more air back over the condenser to supplement the fan's effort. I'm sure between our A/C suppliers and our board members someone will figure out how to improve the air circulation over the front condenser.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:03 AM
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:03 AM
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