Doyle, thanks. Can you pull some SAE member strings to find where we can get some BASF Basotect Lite (white) retail? I'd like to try a sheet in the engine compartment. Thanks.

I shall certainly attempt it, no?

Standby (they're a strange group.................)

For those following along: Basotect is a flexible, open-cell foam material made from melamine resin that functions as a sound absorber and is also heat-resistant and fireproof. The ‘acoustic foam’ is suitable for use in segmenting the engine from the interior of the car, with specific focus on noise reduction. BASF believes that engines made entirely of plastic components could be developed. Plastic structures allow for more freedom of design as it is easier and more cost-effective to produce a tool considering the flowability of plastics in the molten state. Also, a number of moulds and a variety of design features can be created using plastic as opposed to metal materials.


....and....

BASF offers Basotect, a versatile foam based on melamine resin, which has been used successfully for sound insulation in buildings and aircraft, lining for automobile hoods, and for passenger seating. Its chemical composition and specific open-cell foam structure provide heat resistance and flame retardancy. Basotect's main properties remain unaffected in a wide range of ambient temperatures.

Lexus LX uses this stuff.......I'd like to see some specs (however)

Later,

Doyle

I only see it talked about on Eurpean BBs regarding noise and sound dampening. I think most of these guys must be amateur audiophiles or whatever. I can't see anywhere an average guy might get a hold of it. But I'm reading the pdf file that I supplied the link to, and it suggests that some dampending may be had if we use an open cell foam. It seems an air gap is necessary too, so I want to be sure there is an air gap between my firewall and the interior panels. I was going to fill these with foam, but according to the research, that is a bad idea.

it is pretty low density (i.e. wt)
http://www.corporate.basf.com/en/investor/strategie/kunden/basotec.htm?id=V00-nDevuCXrGbcp*A4

more info re noise etc. ...
http://www.plasticsportal.net/wa/plasticsEU~en_GB/portal/show/content/products/foams/basotect

Basotect UL is the one I am interested in. Look, there are different types. Since the cabin side of the firewall is coated with a rubber barrier, I think this stuff is a good candidate for use in the engine compartment. I have only gotten temp readings in the 260 range so far, but I have not tested my max temps yet.

http://www.plasticsportal.net/wa/plasticsEU~en_GB/portal/show/content/products/foams/basotect_productline

So, nothing definitive in terms of cabin floor lining yet? I'm happy to say, I'm having to think about that very soon.

Did I post what I'd gathered so far?

Somebody make a list of what is available, how thick it is and how much it weighs. I'll compile the data and try to find out if the manf. has any data on attenuation.

I always figure... if you got no data, I got no money.

I posted this stuff previously:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/soundproofinstall.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/dampingpanels.php

but based on research open cell will attenuate sound better, and the best thing I think is to have material on both sides of any metal panel, say the fire wall. Not so much noise coming from the floor, probably more from the center tunnel.

Paint on sound proof material:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/supersoundproofliquid.php

I did some temp measurements on my fire wall, and found the hottest spot is dead center in front of the cooling fan, just above the transmission, low on the firewall, is 165F. In comparison, the tops of the cylinders is around 190, the oil around 240, and the cat about 400F.

This means that any adhesive that you use on the firewall must be able to withstand at least 165F, probably a little bit more.

I still think BASF Basotect UL is the stuff to use.

This stuff looks great. I missed it with all the data being bombarded before. I might order a bunch for the car and I'll let you know how it goes.

The BASF Basotect UL looks like it's a thick foam meant to go in between cabin walls. Looks like it might be good inside doors and in the rear area underneath the quarter windows.

You know what would be helpful would be to have baseline sound level numbers with stock cabs, targas and coupes. A quick and dirty method would be to use a Radio Shack handheld SPL meter. Have the car running and take some readings at various rpm's. Then remove the stock materials and start experimenting with the new stuff and take readings.

I'll look into the SPL meter.

I forgot to mention tire noise. Loud tires that I remember were Perilli P7, Bridgestone S02, and Yokohama Intermediates. Less loud Dunlop Sport and Bridgestone SO3. I have Bridgestone RE 750s and the are loud, but not too much. I think Michellins were the quietest tires that I have ever owned.

A lot of road noise come in through the wheel wells. In the 3.2 911, there is a lot of sound deadening material surrounding the footwell blowers. This area could use some attention at the rear. Again, I think leather offers better sound dampening than vinyl.

I've used the old sytle analog meter for years. Looks like they have gone modern!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103667&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=S PL&kw=spl&parentPage=search

they say accuracy +/- 2 db. How loud is 1db? Is the scale linear, so 2db is twice as loud as 1 db?

This product was mentioned early in this thread: http://quietsolution.com/html/quietcar.html

I decided to give it a try. Bottom line: at least as effective as the stock insulation in the rear interior of my '74 911. Unfortunately, I didn't take any sound readings, but my ears tell me that it works. For more detail read on...

Part 1: I stripped my rear interior in preparation for a roll bar install (welding and such) and decided to pitch all of the sound padding (as noted by many others, the padding is HEAVY). I then drove the car from the bay area to LA to have TRE install the bar. The car was insanely loud on the drive and I had to wear ear plugs. In spite of the plugs, my ears were ringing for hours. Note that my 911 is a pretty noisy car; with 993 heat exchangers and a Triad race muffler there's alot of rear-end racket. Without insulation, the sound was unbearable.

Part 2: Something had to be done about the noise, but I didn't want to put the heavy padding back in (theme of this thread, after all). I decided to go with the Quiet Car product. I received a gallon of the stuff, which is quite heavy (probably 25% heavier than a gallon of house paint). I cleaned the interior up, primed the surface, and used a paint brush to apply 3 heavy coats of the Quiet Car (this is what they recommend). This used up a little less than half of the 1 gallon bottle.

Part 3: I allowed the paint to dry completely and reinstalled the carpet, roll bar, etc. Then, the test drive. Wow! It works...well. The info on the paint bottle states that the insulating effect improves over a 7 day period as the paint cures. If this is accurate, my interior will be quieter than before. I will report back in a week.

Other thoughts:
1. The carpet alone has some effect on sound deadening, but I just didn't have the time to put in the carpet alone to test this.
2. These results are "seat of the pants", but after driving 10 hours in this car without insulation I can tell you that there's a HUGE difference.
3. The paint brush method is UGLY, so if you plan to use this product without reinstalling the carpet, you should consider the spray-on method. The paint itself is light gray, but dries to a dark, silvery-gray color.

Hey JP...a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind.

1. How much did you pay for the gallon?
2. Where'd you find the stuff?
3. Any "odd" prep you had to do, or was it pretty straightforward?
4. Did you do just the back section from the rear seats, or the floors too? I need to do the floors, so I might have to get more than a gallon, perhaps.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1216059072.jpg

To further muddy the insulation waters, here's a product in the Summit Racing catalog called LizardSkin. I don't know anything about it other than that it claims to reduce sound as well as temperature. Pricey too.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LIZ%2D50100&N=700 +401074+115&autoview=sku

Sherwood

I'm not sure if this has been posted:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

This is a regular guy that tried a lot of different options, and wrote about it. Interesting read...

1. With shipping and tax, the total was $73.97
2. I purchased direct from the manufacturer (http://quietcoat.stores.yahoo.net/)
3. Prep was straightforward. Priming is recommended for bare metal
4. I did not do the floors, but I might in the future. I think a gallon would be close.

So, I just read that that quietcoat is most effective *over* other sound deadening mats. So, I wonder if you could do a little dynamat for anti-vibration, then paint this stuff over that.