Overwhelmed - In need of guidance.
 

Hi all - first post here.

I've been reading you guys for months. I've searched and searched for various questions. I've learned a lot. But I write this evening with a bit of a heavy heart. I know, I know, it's just a car. The 1989 911 Cab in gray with Camel interior has finally popped up on my radar -- but it has 121,000 miles.

I'm distraught. The simple question is this: Is it even worth me going though the whole PPI inspection process? If I'm honest with myself, I'm looking at some major work in the short term, yes? The dealership is non-specific with it's history - that's strike one. I would of course prefer buying my first Porsche from a Porsche head who would care for it properly. And various 911 websites have suggested looking into what my expected/possible repeairs may cost -- but I can't lock down cost consistency. But I digress.

The real issue is miles. So let's say the compression is good. Am I kidding myself? And does it go without saying that the issue is money? Because of the high miles, it's in my price range. Maybe the smart thing to do is just keep saving and find one with lower miles. But God I'm tired of waiting - and the gray/camel combination is so hard to find.

I know questions like this have been posed a million times, and I don't mean to disrespect the board with being redundant - but I'm really struggling here, and I could really use some objective thoughts and insights.

Can someone help me frame up a possible or likely repair plan. What might I realistically be looking at? Because frankly, I'm blinded by desire.

Thanks to all.
Dreaming Big

High Miles = Maintenance History.
Poor Maintenance History = PPI

There are IMO no shortcuts here. You get what you buy and that is determined by how well you do your homework before you purchase.

Here is what I would do;
1] Take a pelican to see the car. Most pelican are rational and will not join your dream.
2] Get the PPI. It is well worth the investment.
3] Post the car in Marketplace discussion. Trader, techweenie, PURSR , Kilodawg and crew will steer you straight.

There is a great thread there now concerning a first purchase by flatsixjunky.

Buying a car is fun don't get impulsive.....Ask me how I know :rolleyes:

One of the things we say around here is " don't buy the first car you fall in love with".

There are plenty of good, reliable 911's out there in all price ranges.

If you have the capability/tool/space to work on one that needs a bit o' lovin' then gor for it. If not, kepp searching for the right one for you. That may mean walking away from your dream car.

List your location. As Macroni implied in his post, a Pelican nearby would be glad tohelp out a newbie.

hi. welcome.
if the price is right, the engine and transmission is mechanically ok, the color is right and the model is right, overall condition of interior/exterior is ok - those miles are nothing at all.

if your worried, get a PPI and your worries will be put to rest. if you buy a car with NO rust and a strong motor, i cant see how you can go wrong since most other fixes, including transmission work is relatively affordable considering its one of the greatest cars ever made

the more I drive my car, the better it seems to run. really! cant say that about any other car I ever owned

get compression/leak down test and check --- i believe its valve guide wear on that model....and thoroughly check for rust everywhere

good luck

Good advice above.

Many of us went thru multiple PPIs, Pelican inspections & personal inspections during the search. I had spent $800+ to various mechanics for PPIs before I found the right car.

But 121K is not really high mileage as long as it has been maintained.

Ian

Two weeks ago I bought a 89 C4. Baltic Blue. 170K on the clock.

I had a PPI done. It has a huge list of things wrong with it. Sunroof doesn't work. Small rip in the carpet. 4 wheel drive light comes on at 70. Couple paint dings, are the majors. Ohh and Oil leaks.

But the leakdown is solid, the 4 wheel drive light is a issue where I need to clean up the longitudinal accelerometer, I can fix those things, and the price was right.

I did 3 PPI's costing me close to a grand before I did the one that mattered.

I'd say you got to get that PPI done. Should be about 100 to 300 bucks. It is worth it. Report back here with what you got and people can tell you how much you need to pay, and you can make a informed decision.

I liked those other cars that got away, but I don't feel bad, I know what most likely awaits the next owner and I'm glad that wasn't me.

Now on your 89 is it the 3.2 or the C4? If its the C4 you need to check a few things on the car. The clutch, listen for the clunk if the dual mass flywheel has gone to hell. check to see if you have major oil leaks, to see if it has the gasket problem.

Go to it!

Quote:

"Now on your 89 is it the 3.2 or the C4? If its the C4 you need to check a few things on the car. The clutch, listen for the clunk if the dual mass flywheel has gone to hell. check to see if you have major oil leaks, to see if it has the gasket problem"

89 C4 is a one year car, it doesn't have a dual-mass flywheel so no noises.

Quote:

"Now on your 89 is it the 3.2 or the C4? If its the C4 you need to check a few things on the car. The clutch, listen for the clunk if the dual mass flywheel has gone to hell. check to see if you have major oil leaks, to see if it has the gasket problem"

89 C4 is a one year car, it doesn't have a dual-mass flywheel so no noises.

Really? Leffingwell's book "Buyer's Guide" says that it is in the 89 C4's.

I honestly don't know for certain, can anyone help?

Just look in any parts book or catalog, the '89 C4 Porsche intro book or PET. DMF were from 1990 onwards.

Single mass flywheel >89 964 102 239 00 Dual mass flywheel 90> 964 114 012 02

Yes, I read that book too............................................... ...

the book is wrong. i have a baltic blue 89 C4 for sale with the same mileage, real RS interior and everything works, just did a clutch too. oil leaks from everywhere they can leak can be expensive. case through bolt o-rings, chain housings, heads to cylinders, oil lines at the oil tank, oil lines to the front cooler, the front cooler, the steering pump, the steering rack. look it over well. high miles can mean worn valve guides and hign oil consumption. valve grinds to fix ain't cheap.

I'll relate to you my experience and perhaps the steps I went through could help you out as well..

I just bought an 84 911 Coupe and didn't do a PPI, but I trolled the Pelican, 6speedonline and Rennlist forums for a while, spoke to mechanics and owners of air-cooled Porsches, read the multiple buyer's guides available and drove a few 911s.

The car I ended up buying was the 2nd one I drove because:

(1) mechanically it was in decent shape, everything worked and the car drove smoothly
(2) the body was straight
(3) the interior was a little rough but over all good
(4) 2 owner vehicle, with the 2nd owner owning it since 1986
(5) the color scheme was nice
(6) it just seemed to be "the one"

I expected some issues with it but the price was right and I had budgeted for issues that the car would have, so overall it was a good choice. The hard part is waiting for all the parts to come in to fix the vehicle..

--- double posted ---

"Every 911 is (at least) a $20K car. You either pay now or you pay later."

This advice usually tends to surface in discussions like this, so I thought I'd float it out there. Be sure that your budget includes the cost of PPIs + purchase price + immediate repairs/maintenance + an annual repair budget. If you stretch on the purchase price, you will very likely regret it.

I'm always amazed at the amount of genuine and good-hearted help that exists on this forum.

I'm located in Santa Fe but the Porsche is located in the South Bay, CA. I will most certainly proceed with the PPI. I'm wondering if there is a Pelican in the South Bay who could recommend a mechanic I could have the car taken to? I was planning on using the recommended service company for the PPI, but maybe some additional and trained eyes on the car would be advised. Any thoughts or suggestions there would me most helpful.

I can't thank you guys enough for the responses -- it helps to calm me down and think more rationally. Rather than be freaked out by the high miles, I should just proceed accordingly and see how she checks out. It's a 3.2 - by the way. Is there some sort of Pelican service or scenario where Pelicans will take a look at a car for someone - or have most of you guys decided to fly to wherever the car is and check it out in person?

John would know better than me!

Some real solid advice here from people who know these cars. Do your research don't let the car get in to your head. (It's hard to walk from a nice one) Get a PPI from someone that you researched and found on your own. Get a nice car !

the fact you just had two of the top Porsche mechanics in Seattle chime in on this post is really quite impressive. . .I say do the PPI and if checks out with nothing major and price is right pull the trigger

I think you need to share with us what your budget is. The old saying is 'buy the newest Porsche you can afford'. The 3.2's were a great engine. If it has been cared for you could drive it many more miles. However, and has been said, since you don't know the history of the car you're flying blind. That means you'll need to invest in a ppi for certain. But don't expect a ppi to find everything, it can't. It has been my experience that buying a 911 with miles on it from a dealer is risky. Private parties have generally invested in the car they are selling. Whereas dealers don't always do that because they are trying to make the most on the trade in, etc.

South Bay as in the San Francisco area, or South Bay as in Torrance, Redondo Beach, etc.? If in the San Francisco area, Tom Amon is a mobile mechanic with an excellent reputation. If in Southern California, Callas Rennsport in Torrance gets high marks from Wayne Dempsey and others here on Pelican.

Good luck!