new complete axle CV joints

[janz]

Tomorrow my new complete axles and cv joints will be delivered for my 86 Carrera. Been reading every post on replacement and Bentleys and 101 projects. Yes I'm ready to go. One ? Getting the ole big lock nut off the stub axle. I have the 3/4" drive socket and a 3/4" breaker bar. I am considering removing the center hub emblem on the wheel and leaving the wheel on to loosen the nut first. Now my ? is : I've read where the way to do it is to apply parking brake and put in reverse. Thinking about this that means if the car does move forward during this it may turn the engine backwards, isn't that a big no no for porsche engines? Shouldn't I be putting the tranny in 1st gear so if it does manage to move that the engine would turn in the direction it was intended, after all I read some horror stories about how much force was used to get that nut off. Am I reading to much into this whole thing, I want to be prepared and don't want to screw something up because I misread or someone in their haste typed it up wrong.

[janz]

That would be for the drivers side but then thinking further wouldn't I have to put it in reverse for the loosening of the pass side? Is like the chicken or the egg thing?

[DUK]

What year car is this? and why are you removing the stub axles?

[janz]

like it says in the post above 86 carrera. Removing nut so I can take old axles out and put new axles in.

[DUK]

DOH, guess I couldn't see that first line.

[ChemMan]

Impact gun worked on mine. Getting the bolt torqued when the job is done is the bigger issue. I used I breaker bar with an extension on it. I believe the bolt is supposed to be torqued to 339 ft lbs.

[911pcars]

There's more gear reduction in reverse than in first (usually), thus more difficult to move the vehicle with your long lever and socket. In addition, applying the parking brake should prevent the vehicle and engine from moving.

A more convenient method is to prep your wheel to easily access the stub axle nut (remove cotter pin), then drive it down to a cooperative garage and ask them to apply the required sudden torque with their HD impact gun. It's an easy 30 second job with the right tools and enough air pressure. Slip them $5-$10 cash for their trouble. They can retighten it enough to drive the short distance home to remove it and complete the job. Take it back to them to retighten to spec if needed. Don't forget the antiseize on the threads.

Sherwood

[Joe Bob]

I've bought two sets of "new" complete CV and axles for my SC....stoopid me, I replaced one and figured the other would be fine...even with a factory LSD.....the other side failed within 2 months.

BUT.....they didn't require removing the gland nut...or the stub axles.

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[911st]

Are you actually removing the stub axles for some reason like replacing the rear hub bearings?

Or are you just replacing the inner drive axles w the CV joints on each end?

If it is just the drive axles then that bolt dose not need to be removed.

[rick-l]

The parking brake and a couple of 2x4s in front of the tire seemed to work for me.

edit: with my carcass I didn't have to go out the full 18 inches to get the correct torque to put it back on.

[Tim L]

+1 911st

No need to remove the stub axles

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by Tim L

+1 911st

No need to remove the stub axles

It depends on the year car he has. On my 88 the CV joints are friction welded to the axle.

Another trick for loosening the screws on the transmission flange is to stick a screwdriver in the vent holes on the brake disc.

[initial]

I did the wheel bearings this spring on my 89. The big nut has to come off since the CV joint/axles and the stub axle is all the same piece.. I assume all the Carrera's are the same...

[911st]

Don't think so!

Porsche 911 rear drive axles have a CV joint on each end. By removing the bolts around the parameter of each CV, the drive axles with the CV joints come out as one unit.

No need to remove the stub axles unless you are redoing the almost indestructible rear bearings or replacing a bent arm or something.

[burgermeister]

While I could be wrong, on my 88 I do not remember seeing any bolts on the outside CVs with which to unbolt them. I remember checking torque on the inside ones ... and not finding anything to check on the outside.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Axles '75 thru early '85







Axles late '85 thru '89



Any other questions?

[Joe Bob]

Per my Bentley, as of 85 model the drive shafts for the 911 Carrera have a bolted joint at the transmission end and a friction-welded joint at the wheel end.....

[911st]

Crap, my new to me 911 is an 85, I hope I have the earlyer style.

Wonder why Porsche would do this to us. With the earlyer cars you could keep an extra axel w CVs around and it was an easy R&R. Great for a track car.

Thanks for the info.

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by 911st

Wonder why Porsche would do this to us. .

Because you'd miss out on the feeling of churning butter while cleaning them.

[janz]

Here it is 3.5 hrs later and I'm done. Few observations made along the way for anyone who is going to do the same. The new axles were the way to go. First of all I took the rear tires off and poped out the emblem in the center and then bolted them back up. Used only the parking brake but put a good rubber chock block in front of the tires or behind depending on which side your removing. Payed attention to the use 3/4" drive socket small extension and breaker bar, had to stand on end of breaker bar but broke free nicely. My old axles were attached with hex (allen) type bolts but the new ones came with the star drive type heads, lucky I had one that fit, I think from an old seat belt removal and install on one of our prior cars. Bottom of shock must come off the trailing arm to remove axle. Found that if I put the half moon washers and bolts on the axle before installing it, makes it much easier to just push the tranny end up there after sliding the stub axle in the rear hub of course and tighten the bolts by fingers while turning the axle. Having the wife come out and apply the brakes for tightening and torquing made it fast and easy. The rest is basic just reverse what you did to take it apart. The old ones still felt good but all four boots were torn pretty bad. Remember I don't drive it in the rain and it gets stored for the winter and does not go off the pavement, probably why the old ones were still OK. I would still recomend the complete axle purchase as now I know I have joints with zero miles to start.