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-   -   A/C Temperature Switch Problem - HELP! (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/418003-c-temperature-switch-problem-help.html)

deshetlr 07-03-2008 12:03 PM

A/C Temperature Switch Problem - HELP!
 
Calling all A/C experts!

After several attempts to get the A/C on my '86 Carrera working we have run into a problem I have not seen in any thread on this board. We diagnosed that the A/C temperature switch was bad but when we put the new one (Porsche OEM) in (works great) we found it to be 1/8" larger in height. We sourced 3 switches and they were all the same size.

The height difference creates a fit issue in the console. It is too tall for the shaft to fit through the factory hole correctly. Modification to the console will make the installation look like crap so we are stumped.

Is there a brand of switch that will fit? Is there a console we can change to? Clean modifications we have not considered? Are we doing something wrong? We are open to any good solution.

Thanks

JeremyD 07-03-2008 01:01 PM

Mine was that way too - I used a dremel to clean out some of the plastic.

Barrpete 07-03-2008 01:05 PM

I'm in the middle of the same problem. On mine I was only getting 7V at the compressor so it wouldn't kick in the clutch. I looked around and was able to find switches small enough to fit at local AC shops but the capillary probe would need to be bent at a 90 degree angle risking breaking or kinking the tube.

So i took the old switch and there is plastic panel on the side that is removable through which you can access the contacts. I cleaned it up with electrical contact cleaner and small file and on the meter it tested OK I could get 12V through it. At least on the bench. I haven't put it back in yet to give it the real test yet though.

You might want to give it a try.

PSJoyce 07-03-2008 01:39 PM

I just did this today. Because the new switch has reinforcing at the base of the capillary tube where it connects to the switch box, I could not bend the tube enough, particularly in the area of the reinforcement, to clear the inside of the console.

On my 1985, the inside of the console is hidden from the outside by the cover in back, and on the inside, by the AC switch fascia butting up to the top inner console. I got out the Dremel and opened up a slot in the top inner console where it can not be seen. The capillary tube now gently curves up into this new hole, then back down through the normal path to the smugglers box.

Good luck

Paul

deshetlr 07-03-2008 01:42 PM

I tend toward the Dremel solution only because I would not want to go through this again in 9 months. However I am hoping there is a more elegant solution.

I find it amazing Porsche would be so sloppy in there purchasing specs.

PSJoyce 07-03-2008 01:55 PM

Yeah, my bet is that the new switch is "improved" to make the tube a little more rugged -- only problem is that the updated one just doesn't fit right. This was one of those jobs I never wanted to do, but at least it's done.

Of course, the bigger problem I've got now is that the AC still isn't cold -- I'm going to have to ask yet another "AC charging problem" question later myself...

Paul

deshetlr 07-07-2008 09:27 AM

So Paul when put back together was there any indication of the modification?

PSJoyce 07-07-2008 09:38 AM

Hi Scott

On my '85, nothing at all can be seen of my Dremel work now that it's all put back together. The new slot for the capillary tube is hidden in front by the switch fascia and on top and in back by the black console shell that goes around the back. Comparing them, the new cap tube is a bit greater in diameter, and does seem more rugged than the original. The new switch seems to have slightly lower set points, too, but I can just dial it back from "full cold" setting to prevent evaporator freeze up.

Hope that helps

Paul

PSJoyce 07-07-2008 11:20 AM

Hi Scott

I dug up the photos. The first is the original switch, the second, the replacement.

You can see that the replacement case is just a bit taller -- I'm told this is the smallest case currently available. The cap tube on the new one is curved just as far as I was brave enough to test it. The original had some pretty tiny loops behind the console, a kink where the passenger floor board had contacted it, and a nasty kink near the evaporator. I'm really surprised it lasted so long.

One other instruction I received was to pull the white plastic sheath off the old cap tube and slide it over the new one. This was the most difficult part of the job. I did cut out the most kinked parts of the white sheath, to make this more possible

Paul


Original
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215458243.jpg


Replacement
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215458272.jpg

deshetlr 07-07-2008 11:24 AM

Paul thats super. That should help a lot.


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