Coating/Sealant besides POR-15 for Interior usage?
 

Ever since some bozo mechanic put dents in my floorpan when he incorrectly lifted my car, the sound deadening behind my rear seats has been coming off in large chunks.
Is there something fairly durable besides POR15 (expensive and a bother) that I could use to coat the floor?

Rustoleum? (flame suit on)

Thanks for the advice,

do you want sound deadening? rust protection?

Do you want spray on or brush on. One advantage to Por-15 is the nice finish even when brushed on. It is better sprayed, though a hassle and you need equipment.

I'm looking into lizardskin ceramic coating. Looks promising. Anyone have any experience with it?
Terry

As sorta stated before, POR 15 is for rust. It won't help for sound deadening. If you want the factory look, you will need to use Wurth SKS, but that needs to be sprayed and much more of a hassle than even POR 15.

If there's rust, POR 15 is the best answer.

By the way, I used a body hammer and dolly to get my floor boards back into shape. Surprisingly easy. And, mine were in pretty bad shape (from the same cause, errg).

I've been using products from KBS coatings . Cheaper than POR-15 with the same or better results .

I am a fan of POR-15 , just not their price .

Link to some of their products .....http://stores.ebay.com/STOP-RUST-WITH-KBS-COATINGS .

They even sell a few Por-15 products , some on close-out .

FWIW

SxS

PS , wear long gloves . If you get it on your skin it will be worn off not cleaned off . Good stuff .

Have heard that ZeroRust is a very good alternative to POR products. Evidently POR are very rigid on their prep instructions while ZR you just brush the stuff on and it works.

Might look into it.

I used Lizardskin on my project, but I haven't gotten the car on the road yet, so I can't say how effective it is at sound dampening. I brushed it on, but the finish was less than wonderful (it's pretty thick goo) I think it'd be better to spray it in (you can get a spray applicator from the Lizardskin folks)- I probably went overboard when I applied Dynamat over the top of it, but I do have to say that the Dynamat stuck to it just fine. I got it on the advice of a friend of mine who builds award-winning hotrods, and it has worked fabulously for him...

_curt

I'd have put the Dynamat down first....

it's role is to damp the drumhead (panel of sheet metal).

The Lizardskin IIRC is a microbead material designed to absorb sound waves and turn them into heat.

I wasn't sure which material would give my RS carpet a better surface to grip to- I hope my order of installation doesn't come back to bite me in the butt, but if it does, I'll be that much smarter with my next Porsche project :-)

The mistake I know I made was in brushing the Lizardskin on- Graham, you can save some hassle by not repeating my dumbass process if you go with that material!

_curt

BTW - I'd POUR that stuff into any cracks, holes, or crevices found - see the Sound Reduction thread...

After a wire scrub to bare metal, I used Rustoleum followed by the asphalt-based Dynamat clone from JC Whitney. Not sure I'd recommend a sound absorption covering without first coating bare metal with a rust preventative. If any moisture gets to bare metal, it's instant oxidation.

Sherwood

"Not sure I'd recommend a sound absorption covering without first coating bare metal with a rust preventative."

- I agree. Sorry if I didn't put it well above. My intent was to say that the sound dampening material (if used*) should probably go on before (below) the sound absorption material (Lizard skin or any other mirco-bead material).

* delete this heavy stuff to save wt. - or use it in strips rather than an entire 'wall' of it as a compromise of wt. with noise reduction.

Thanks for the tips.
The ideal coating for me will be, in order of importance:
1. Corrosion resistant. The car is a Targa. It gets wet down there sometimes.
2. Light weight
3. Inexpensive
4. Sound Damping/Absorbing

I would be hesitant to use a ceramic coating. Wouldn't it be harder that the body itself, and thus be likely to crack when the body flexes?
My ideal coating would be something like a powder coating. Very durable, yet still flexible.

if you are talking about Cascade Audio or the Lizard skin etc. they use tiny tiny ceramic beads in a flexible matrix - should not crack

I'd just use a high-rust killer type primer and then top coat with a regular paint to protect the primer. Then decide on strips of Sound Dampener or none at all.
Then put on the Liz skin or whatever. Wear areas if any should get a clear or other coat or paint.

I'm sure this will give better than original sound reduction with less wt. than the original.

There is no perfect solution (unless you can steal some aero-gel from NASA).

Check out Rustoleum appliance epoxy. It's cheap (about $6/quart) and very durable though I think it only comes in white in quart containers. It's available in black spray cans as well.

Cool beans, that's what I was hoping to hear.