|  | 
| 
 what to do, what to do. . . I'm at a crossroads with my P-car.  It's an '86 I purchased a few years ago and have done alot of maintainence the PO's did not do.  And even though I've spent well over $5K in maintenance plus the $15k purchase price the car still, to me, looks like a C, C+ car.  If you didn't know all that I think still needs to be done to it you might think its a B, B- car - at 10  feet.   Now I knew before getting into this project car it was going to cost me some money, and I knew it wouldn't happen over night, but the PPI did didn't do me any service and since I've bought the car I've had a kid and times being what they are I just don't have the money to throw at the car like I use to. So I've got some choices ahead of me, and I'm not sure what it the best road to take. Here are the knowns: Since purchasing the car I've discovered that it has been in a wreck, and while the repair is structurally sound it's obvious from the some of the details it wasn't done by a Porsche specialist - door gaps, engine lid gaps (engine bay openning is not quite square to the lid - that sort of thing), etc, and the paint is not up to most P-Car owner's expectations - at least not mine. The car will need a repaint - not a respray, a repaint - maybe not a rotissery (<sp?) paint job, but at least the outside. The front fenders need a little metal work. Where the bumper trim (the piece that sits on top of the bumper and divides the fender from the bumper) meets the fender rock chips hit it, water penetrated and rusted a small area that holds the aforementioned bumper trim ( the part that is parallel with the ground), and has proceded to make small crack the metal. The metal is thin there and I don't know if it would be easier to just go with fiberglass fenders or just fix it. Fiberglass seems like a good option up front (I'm not overly concerned with orginality - the car has no provenance) because I will never have to wory about rust there again. I don't know the names but the piece that's under the front bumper and the piece thats under the rear bumper needs to be replaced. They've seen better days. The engine has 118K miles on it and doesn't necessarily need a rebuild "right now", but it's time is coming. It doesn't smoke, but if I want to keep the car long term I will need to do this. The tranny seems fine, though stiff going into 2nd gear and it's hard to find 4th sometimes. It's a 915 and the PO had the 1-2 rebuilt. I dont' know the quality of the rebuild. So ultimately the tranny my need some work, though how much is unknown. I've rebuilt the front suspension completely except for the struts, but the rear bushings on the adjustable trailing arms needs to be replaced. All swaybars and swaybar bushings need to be replaced (I've replaced some bushings on the front sway when I did the front suspension) I had the A/C fixed, but the freon still leaked out from somewhere and I havn't had time to check it out - but all the parts are there. And to top it all off the PO let the battery leak and rust has started under the car in that crossmember piece that the front suspension ties into. I took it to fella all the other P-Cars in town take their car to for rust repair and he seems to think it's not that bad. I purchased the whole lower pan replacement parts set just in case. So that's all the ugly truth. Now hearing that I'm sure you think the car's a piece too, but it's not THAT bad. I mean, there car still drives fine and all the elec. works fine and I've done alot to keep it maintained. Here's a list of what I have documented from the PO and myself: 1. engine sound proofing has been replaced 2. new rotor and cap 3. air filter 4. turn signal switch was replaced 5. new Interstate battery 6. sunroof cables, guides and clips replaced. 7. right window motor replaced 8. A/C compressor rebuilt 9. new receiver dryer (for A/C) 10. new A/C ring seal 11. new evaporator core 12. new bellows hose 13. new spark plugs (I have since put in new ones but have the old ones for viewing – they were put in about 500 miles ago) 14. MAJOR SERVICE: Oil change (there is actually paperwork for many oil changes), valve adjust, compression check, spark plugs, air and fuel filters, lubricate distributor, adjust clutch, adjust wheel bearings, new belts etc. 15. New shift sleeve, shift socket, shift coupler. 16. Rebuilt transmission (by PO) – also new: new clutch, pilot bearing, flywheel seal, clutch cable. Swepco trans fluid installed. 17. new rear shock absorbers 18. new front strut inserts 19. new break pads and break pad sensors, resurfaced rotors. 20. new wheel bearings (inner and outer) – front. 21. new cam oil lines. 22. new oil cooler hoses (2) to from thermostat to front cooler. What I have done: 1.Right door seal (I still have a new left one that can be installed if one wanted) 2.Left lower rocker panel rubber insert (I have a new right one to install – but current one is fine) 3.I have had installed two new rear sway bar mounting brackets. 4.2 inner headlamp liners 5.new left rear OEM tail light assembly (including len, housing and seal) 6.new right rear tail light lens and seal 7.new hood emblem and seal 8.new ignition switch cover 9.new silicon valve cover gaskets and nuts. I have checked for broken head studs on exhaust side, none found. 10.Newoil lines from the thermostat 11.New front OEM A-arms 12.New front OEM Ball joints (with all required hardware) 13.New front OEM stock torsion bars 14.lowered to Eurospec and 4 wheel aligned 15.new fuel filter 16.new decklid seal 17.new idle control valve (ICV) 18.new fan housing 19.new Clewett Engineering high performance ignition wires 20.steel jack pads (for working on the car) 21.new transmission and motor mounts 22.new Dunlop SP Sport FM 901 tires (4) 23.I have also replaced just about every vacuum line on the car. 24.New Complete left axle with CV joints and boots. 25.had odometer rebuilt and calibrated 26. H4 Upgrade on front headlights 27.Rebuilt front brakes 28. SS brake lines all around So my some of my options are: 1st. Option: Sell the car for about $12k - OBO 2nd Option: don't worry about the body, since fixing it up might not make financial sense in the long run - and just make it an Auto-X car, but with a 915 tranny this doesn't make much sence to me. It'd be nice to make it a DE car, but there a no close tracks. If I pick this option I would first replace all the suspension goodies with perfromance aftermarket and just drive it into the dirt. The engine and tranny would have to have the necessary work done to them after the suspension at some point. 3rd Option: Replace all the bodyparts with fiberglass and/or replacement steel parts. Basically make the car look decent. Drive it for a while as is after painting it and do the suspension, tranny and engine at a much later date. Infact the kid might be graduating before I got all that done:D. I'm just not sure what to do I'm open to suggestion or direction- here are some pics: http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../Porsche-3.jpg http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...86/Porsche.jpg http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f.../Porsche-2.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153011575.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153011582.jpg | 
| 
 Drive the car, enjoy your kid, and don't worry about it.  Sometimes I wish I had a 911 that I wasn't afraid leave in a parking lot for risk of getting dinged. So I vote Option 2, but don't spend the money on upgrades yet. | 
| 
 What have you been doing with it so far, why not just continue to enjoy it the same way?  Spend a little here and there, fix the corrosion you can't see from the outside, save up for a repaint and exterior rust repair. People worry way too much about these engines. My '84 has burned or leaked, mostly leaked, .5qt in the last 3K miles. The leak is from the drain plug, just needs a new washer. One of the oil return tubes was also leaking and when I crawled underneath it this weekend to fix both of them, the return tube leak had stopped. | 
| 
 Quote: 
 I looked at a car locally before buying the one I have that had a "clear title" and the owner genuinely didn't know the car had been in an accident in the past. I looked it over (along with a more knowledgable friend) who quickly made that determination. A carfax confirmed that it had been issued a salvage title and somehow had been titled in Ontario, Canada, then the car was issued a clean title in the US. I didn't have the heart to tell the guy what I would really offer him based on that information (parts value). The reality is that few of us get into these cars to make money, for me it's the therapy of blasting down a twisty back road or on a road course, the time spent with my son (with a big grin on his face) driving around in the car, and the friendships I have built with many other fellow enthusiasts. That's what makes it worth spending all the money on these cars. Good luck with your decision! | 
| 
 I would just drive it, it costs about 3-5 grand a year in maintenance just to own a 911 and not let things go, but it looks like you do a lot of work yourself, good for you! I love my not-all-the-way-there car. Like dad911 said, I can park mine up front and not really worry about it. | 
| 
 I must say "these engines" are in fact something to "worry" about,...nothing to do with reliability,..but more to do with worst-case conditions.  In other words, they're damned expensive,..particularly if you're not a mechanic,..sometimes, the timing's bad on the wallet.  Guess you gotta' really love 'em and have plenty of cash reserve to play...sometimes that giant "sucking" sound is not a pleasant one..especially if it's somewhat persistant.  Also, don't forget that age of the car,..sometimes this begs for $$$$$$$$$$$$ ...pay to play, I guess. Mine provides me both ecstacy and frightful worry. ...for now, the "ecstacy" wins out. Best, Doyle | 
| 
 Make sure the front suspension pan is structurally sound -  then go drive the piss out of it.   Do a driver's ed or autocross at least. Sometimes I wish mine wasn't in such great shape - Oh I flog it - but I do yearn for the day when I can park it and not worry about a door ding. | 
| 
 Quote: 
 Best, Doyle | 
| 
 FRrom the pictures it sure is a great looking 911, I know what you mean about the amount of spending involved in getting the car just the way you like it. Currently i don't have any rust issues or previos damage, but the true mileage is uncertain, being an 83 and showing just over 20k/ Soke with the last 3 owners and over the last 12 years it has only traveled 17k miles the original owner had a bed speedo and replaced but cant reach him so no idea what the true mile are. 5 years ago compression and leakdown showed very little wear on the engine, results though since lost were great. Now i have an oil leak at piston #1, not horrible a dime size per outing but some have suggested the dreaded head stud issue, i myself hope for the best, maybe a gasket, drive and most of all enjoy it, knowing i can always sell it and get back at least a major portion of my investment or better yet make a buck. The bottom line is enjoy what you have, fix what you can afford, and if it's not letting you sleep at night, sell it. Ater all it is only a car, yes a "very" special car that only a few dare to purchase and enjoy.  Don't drive yourself nuts, take it one day at a time, there is always somebody somewhere waiting to have there chance with your porsche. Trust me on that one. Best of luck. | 
| 
 redcoupe86: I asked the same basic question here a couple years ago. I kept mine and I am glad I did. I won't go on with details, but I basically don't have to stress about getting a ding or rock chip. I can park anywhere I please. My car drives better than it ever has and it still looks awsome from 10 feet away (maybe 15). It probably is the perfect 911 for my means. Your 911 looks nice as it sits. I would drive the heck out of it and come to grips with the idea that it will return basically pennies to you when you sell it, but it will reward you handsomely with every drive! Good luck. Mikehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215477451.jpg | 
| 
 Your car looks nice.  You have spent a good amount of money on it already, so keep it and have fun driving it.  Who cares if it 'needs' some body work, most 22 year old cars do! | 
| 
 The only "perfect" cars are never driven.  What fun is that?   My car is probably on a par with yours, better in some places, not as good in others. I fix one thing at a time, usually whatever bugs me the most, and keep on driving it. At some point your kid can start helping with small DIY projects. At 8, my daughter was helping change wheels for auto-cross. She's 13 and into boys now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/chix.gif, but we have had a lot of fun playing with cars together. Keep it. BTW, a 915 isn't that much of a problem for auto-cross. Usually you only shift once, so take your time (what other choice is there?) and don't worry about it. If you have PCA events nearby most of your competitors will have a 915 also. | 
| 
 Thanks for everybodies responses.  My biggest obsticle is really myself!  I'm a perfectionist and if it is just a little wrong it drives me nuts until I fix it.  Top that with a no patience personallity and you get the point. I keep telling myself not to worry about the car and just enjoy it. And for the most part I do, but when I see those little flaws. . . . . well I starts driving me crazy again. I'm leaning towards Option 2 btw. It's like being sick and not knowing what it is that ails you. As long as you don't know you worry like crazy, but once you do know what's wrong, even if its bad at least you know and you can get a game plan to fight it. I guess what I'm trying to say is once I pick my option I want to go with some of the anxiety will go away and I can get a game plan together and all the cars little flaws wont overwhelm me. Again, thanks for the input!SmileWavy | 
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:02 AM. | 
	Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
	
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
	Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website