New Finned Aluminum Sump plate

[Bavsport]

Has anyone used this new sump plate yet? I'm wondering how well it would work?


http://www.**********.com/ShowItem/253353%20Porsche%20911%20Oil%20Drain%20Plug%20Sump %20Cover%20-%20Aluminum.aspx

Scott

[sean m]

Scott,
I got one, no noticeable difference in temp if that's what you're after.

The main reason I got it was my previous sump plate didn't have the bolt to let the oil out.......you had undo the complete plate (all 6 bolts) when you changed the oil which was a total PITA!

Other than that, it's just bling.

Sean

[dweymer]

Host sells 'em too! The aluminium resists warping better than the steel ones.

[Bavsport]

I was actually wondering about both. I know the aluminum would seal better, I thought it may have some cooling effect on the oil at the pickup. If it made a difference it may be cheap protection, it would definitely be cleaner.

Didn't see it here, but if I did end up getting one, I would check here first. They are a first class operation from what I see.

[island911]

Ya know, if you type in "aluminum sump plate" above, you'll get:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=9144&section=ENGoil&page=3&bookmark=14&part_number=MCD-930-107-001-00B

[9elf]

Originally Posted by sean m

Scott,
I got one, no noticeable difference in temp if that's what you're after.

The main reason I got it was my previous sump plate didn't have the bolt to let the oil out.......you had undo the complete plate (all 6 bolts) when you changed the oil which was a total PITA!

Other than that, it's just bling.

Sean

Exactly what Sean said.

[john walker's workshop]

just something to get a little closer to raised manhole covers IMO.

[dweymer]

good point John!

[Bavsport]

point taken

how about the finned oil lines from elephant racing? do they make a noticable difference in cooling. I particularly like the fact that you can get all the oil out when changing the oil.

I am trying to find the most cost effective method to bring my car's temp down. It has a trombone cooler. I don't race it, so I'm not looking for something to control really high temps, just enough to keep it from getting up to 220.

[dweymer]

Switching out the trombone for a carrera fenderwell cooler should fix it. They are around 250(last time I looked) used. They require the least amount of work as they will work with the existing hard lines. You will have to run wiring and probably a relay for them if you run the fan.

D

[Bavsport]

Donnie,

I have thought about that too. The thing is, it looks like someone in the car's previous ownership had the car lifted using a floor jack in the wrong place and crushed the return oil line. I used the trick on youtube and posted here to open it back up, but someone posted that they wouldn't waste their time because they had to be perfect. I figure it has to be better than being pinched closed. I have several projects I'm doing while I got the car in the garage, I haven't got the car finished, so I don't know how well it works. I busted all the oil lines loose while I was there and applied anti-seize so if I was going to put the new lines on now would be the time to do it. If that didn't work out, at least I would have good lines on and then could look more into the carrera cooler.

Does that make sense?

Scott

[emac]

island911

That plate looks like the hole needs to be tapped out for the bolt??

[Pete000]

Another one of those nifty items I want that no one can see...

[dweymer]

Scott,

Search here for oil line repair, Tim hancock(i think) did a very nice job repairing his. I have also cut and brazed mine. You can use copper, but should use special solder, which is why you should search for the thread.

I am sure the elephant lines are nice, but they are very expensive and since your not going to race it, standard oil lines and the carrera cooler will be fine.

Used oil lines come up from time to time here, the problem is shipping them though.

[Bavsport]

Thanks Donnie,

I have fixed them somewhat with the pressurize and heat method, they are not crushed closed anymore. I will start the search for a carrera cooler, they also have a carrera cooler kit at elephant racing, but I will see what comes up used. It's going to be a month or so before it gets hot here. I hear that you have to be careful buying a used oil cooler, I think I would feel better spending the extra money to start with a fresh one.

Scott

[HawgRyder]

This type of sump is necessary when you change to the Turbo style pump because the screen hangs down lower than the original.
If you dont make more room for the screen, you might starve the engine.
Bob

[GothingNC]

I have one



No leaks.

[rs6er]

I have the Mainely Custom By Design one and I love it. Comes with all new hardware and gaskets.

[Tim Hancock]

Originally Posted by Bavsport

Thanks Donnie,

I have fixed them somewhat with the pressurize and heat method, they are not crushed closed anymore. I will start the search for a carrera cooler, they also have a carrera cooler kit at elephant racing, but I will see what comes up used. It's going to be a month or so before it gets hot here. I hear that you have to be careful buying a used oil cooler, I think I would feel better spending the extra money to start with a fresh one.

Scott

Scott, those lines do not have to be perfectly round. I assume you got them opened up quite a bit using the torch and air pressure. If you were flirting with high temps with a smashed nearly closed line, chances are you might be fine now that you "unsmashed" them. IOW, if the lines are approximately within 75% of their original shape they will do their job. If your temps are still too high for your operating conditions, then you will need to add an oil cooler.

Cool collars, finned oil lines, finned oil sumps etc are not going to do much to significantly reduce oil temps.

[euro911sc]

I always thought about getting one of those so I could fix a leaking issue... but then I hit a few manhole covers in my other car and that changed my mind. I even worry about the drain bolt sometimes, but I'm not as low in the pcar. I don't think there is enough surface area to make a heat difference.

Originally Posted by Bavsport

... it would definitely be cleaner.

Cleaner looking maybe for a few days... can you imagine trying to clean out all the little grooves and crevasses with a q-tip... what a PITA.

I had a weeping sump plate that had been warped around the stud holes. The bottom of my engine was always slimy and these billet parts would be nice and machined flat. Here is how I just solved (I hope) that problem the other day:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/395042-fixing-my-weeping-sump-plate.html#post3793167



Best regards,

Michael