How to fix various leaks at brass fasteners on Webers?

[911SCfanatic]

I have a few leaks (moisture) at a few brass fastener locations on my Webers ('68 40 IDAs) after a rebuild. Of course, I used the new washers from the rebuild kit. Specifically, a few main jet carriers, float bowl drain plugs, progression hole covers and float needle valve covers are weeping. (A little of everything, I guess).

I suppose the best thing would be to have the surfaces spot faced as part of a complete restoration. Short of that, what can I do? Can I use a honing stone on the carb housing and replace the brass fasteners with new? If so, what grit stone would be appropriate? Ideas?

[911pcars]

I used a bit of Loctite 574 (case sealant) on the fiber fuel inlet washers because I didn't have spares. I let them set overnight and checked under normal op. pressure. No leaks. You could try it on the leaking brass stop bolts, but don't overdo it. Loctite/Permatex PST is a teflon-based thread sealant in a paste form. Apply sparingly on clean, dry threads.

Sherwood

[jpnovak]

Are you sure that these are all tight? I found that new washers and gaskets will sometimes need to be snugged a second time after the initial seat. They are made to compress some.

You could also try something less sticky than the 574 like Curil-T.

I usually use a slight smear of Dow 111 Silicone grease on all my car fittings. It helps seal and prevent corrosion.

[Rich Lambert]

When I rebuilt my Webers, I found out all washers are not created equal. I ended up buying rebuild kits from 2 different sources in order to get one set of washers that would seal. In retrospect, it would have been smart to hone all the surfaces flat when the carbs were completely disassembled, but I've rebuilt a few carbs in my time and never had this problem before.

Chinese washers?

[911SCfanatic]

One of the new float needle valves in the kit was bad, so it wouldn't surprise me...
I'll get some new washers, a few plugs, some sealant and see what happens.