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I've done a lot of brake work on my '72 911T(+) this summer including new Master Cylinder, Flexible Lines, Peddle Cluster rebuild but this last, seemingly simple item has me stumped...
I replaced the front calipers with rebuilt/restored ones this past weekend (because of a stuck cylinder) and now I have way less peddle than I had before the switch(???). A little more info... The work included new pads for the front (only) as well. I bled the front (only) using a power bleeder, at low pressure (8lbs +/-), right and left a couple of times. I also worked the peddle a bit while bleeding, once the peddle went most of the way to the floor (I've heard that's not good?). The peddle still goes more than half way to the floor where previously there was only about an inch or so of play(???) I plan on replacing the rear calipers in the next couple of weeks as well. The braking is definitely improved overall but there's not much peddle(???). Can this be as simple as I need to bleed them again after driving it a bit? Do I need to bleed all four corners? OR could there be a different issue here? Thanks! |
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Registered
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you had the fronts rebuilt, and you only bled the fronts?
if so, that is the problem. go around the car again. if not, i still think that is the problem. it really helps to rap on the calipers with a wooden dowel (or something not to destructive) while bleeding. it amazes me the stubborn bubbles that get released.
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poof! gone |
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Sleep Deprived and Grumpy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lake Geneva
Posts: 1,575
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As Vash said you have to bleed everything again and your pedal will be fine. I usually start with the farthest from the master cylinder and work my way around usually takes a couple times but its worth it.
JW |
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RETIRED
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Get a color change fluid. Like the ATE Blue or Gold.....when you get the color change at the fitting you know it's a complete purge.
Also....sometimes it's best to wait a day or more and then do it again.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Easy enough.
Thanks everyone! |
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