Leaking Fuel Hose 911C 3.2

[BoxsterGT]

Oh no, not again.

Another 911 Carrera 3.2 with a leaking fuel line under the intake manifold.

It is leaking at the lower connection of the hose coming from the fuel filter.

I guess its from being moved around when changing the fuel filter.




Its at the bottom right of this picture, hidden behind the electricals.

The OE replacement cost is huge. Primarily because of its complexity & unique metal lines. Its one piece, all the way over to both fuel rails.

PN 930 110 595 05

So, its time to make a fixture & make some inexpensive replacements.

Len

[derkpitt]

Took mine to a hydraulic line/hose making shop, they put new hoses on it for only $10.00 using the original fitting.

[BoxsterGT]

When they leak, many times they are also loose and they rotate out of position.

Unless you have a fixture, how do you know in what position to crimp the new hose?

With a fixture it should be easy to make the new assemblies.

I can re-use the original fittings, or make up a complete new hose assy with new fittings as well.

I will post some pics as I progress with the task.

Len

[BoxsterGT]

Here is the original fuel line assy as removed from the engine. It is PN 930 110 595 05



It leaked at the lower end of the hose that comes from the fuel filter where it is crimped.

Here is the new assembly to replace the original, using a new "tee" and new 45's for the fuel rails with a 120 at the filter.



I have not crimped the 120 at the filter end, as I may have to revise the lengths once the whole thing gets fitted in place in the car.

Once I know it fits & works properly, I will pull it out & fit it to a fixture so I can make more.

I can also repair the original assembly & keep the metal line and fittings, but they would have to be yellow plated which would take time.

Either alternative would be much less than the cost of a new replacement.

The advantage in the new replacement hose assy is the ease of installation.

I will post more as progress is made.

Len

[BoxsterGT]

I am surprised no-one has any interest in this.

The OE part is $514 according to the local dealer (Clair Porsche).

I don't think Pelican has anything like this in their catalog.

Let me know if I am wrong.

Len

[Carrera3.5L]

Len,

I think it is because what you are proposing is not ground breaking. Many of us (myself included) have gone to braided stainless hose, some reusing the old fittings and some with new fittings. There are many sources for this to be done, name your area and I'm confident that someone can pass on a source.

It cost me $170 (some have paid a little less, some a little more) for all of the fuel lines to be done. The lines are also now individually replaceable should the need arise and IMO look better than the factory piece.







Don't get discouraged, continue posting progress on your personal solution.

Ralph

[BoxsterGT]

Thanks for the input, Ralph.

Braided SS is easy to do with the correct German hose & crimps. Even converting to individual hoses like you have can be done.

Most of what I make up is Metric, but I do use and keep in stock some AN to Metric adapters.

The original type fittings are important to some of the vintage restoration people like Auto Associates & Precision Auto Restorations.

They are both winners of national concours awards for Porsches fitted with my front Oil Cooler stuff.

I am just getting started on fuel lines & hoses. First was the "944 fuel hose fix". I have also done a few sets of lines for 911SC EFI conversions, and now the need for this 911 Carrera 3.2 has come up. These are all done with OE Metric hose & fittings.

I do not have 180 deg fittings yet as someone needed, but I do have 120s.

All my Metric fittings are imported from the OE source in Germany.

The odd fittings like the 120's are pricey ($25 ea) as they are special order in small quantities.

I have purchased a mandrel tube bender (also pricey at $10k) & hope to be able to make such odd sizes as the 180 fuel fittings, as well as 180 deg Oil hose ends (32mm) also.

I hope this helps explain the above a bit better.

If anyone has questions, you may email me at len@autosportengineering.com

Cheers,

Len

[Jay Auskin]

Originally posted by BoxsterGT
When they leak, many times they are also loose and they rotate out of position.

Unless you have a fixture, how do you know in what position to crimp the new hose?

With a fixture it should be easy to make the new assemblies.

I can re-use the original fittings, or make up a complete new hose assy with new fittings as well.

I will post some pics as I progress with the task.

Len

I use the Oetker hose crimps from McMaster Carr. One end gets crimped on your "bench". The other end has the crimp left on loose. You install the line, and rotate the hose until it is a suitable position. Then crimp. I rebuilt my Carerra lines for $60, and this included the price of the crimp tool. The hose is as good, if not better than OEM, and of course better than 18 year old fuel lines.

[BoxsterGT]

Thanks very much. I will look into this. Nice to have for an emergency.

Len

[nhromyak]

Pelican does sell the three -T type (Main fuel line) hose for $348.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_FULmot_pg3.htm

They also sell the filter to main fuel line for $50.00

I simply cut the hose and OEM clamps and re-used the hard metal lines. The hard metal lines already have nipples on them.

Then I bought some fuel-injection hose and fuel-injection clamps.

It has been working well for two years now. If a hydraulic shop will do it for $10.00 I would have gone that route though, as the fuel injection hose itself was more than that...

Good luck.

[bfrenz]

Thats awesome if a hydraulic shop can do it for $10. I have a place that does them but nothing that cheap. I have both lines up on ebay right now, if anyone is interested. I think the price is pretty good too.


http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjbfrenz

[jpahemi]

Len:
Where did you get the fittings for your hose?
j.p.

[bfrenz]

Len: Where did you get the fittings for your hose? j.p.

Check with pelican...I know GPR has them also

[jpahemi]

Len:
I checked Pelican and can't find them, do you have a part #?
jp.

[BoxsterGT]

Hello JP-

I have a friend in Germany who sends me stuff every month or two. I return the favor by sending him hard to find US items like parts for the old Lincoln Continentals.

Unfortunately, he cannot buy parts directly from Porsche, so its cheaper to get those here in the USA with our 20% discount.

Re: fuel & oil lines, I can sell you any of the individual fittings & you can hose clamp them, although crimping is the only real way of preventing leaks.

I usually make up custom lines & hose assemblies to order.

I send the hose & fittings, the owner cuts the hose to length, positions the fittings & clamps them, then returns them to me for crimping.

It has worked out well for many custom applications like front oil coolers & fuel injection conversions.

Here is a photo of my old 914-6 GT at the Daytona Rennsport II last year:






Let me know if I can help.

Len

[jpahemi]

Len:
You do nice work. I've sent you a PM to your email address.
regards,
J.P.

[DW SD]

Originally posted by nhromyak
Pelican does sell the three -T type (Main fuel line) hose for $348.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_FULmot_pg3.htm

They also sell the filter to main fuel line for $50.00

I simply cut the hose and OEM clamps and re-used the hard metal lines. The hard metal lines already have nipples on them.

Then I bought some fuel-injection hose and fuel-injection clamps.

It has been working well for two years now. If a hydraulic shop will do it for $10.00 I would have gone that route though, as the fuel injection hose itself was more than that...

Good luck.

I found that hydraulic shops don't have the metric dies for the swaging tool to do this properly. Metric sizes are not compatible with the American tools in most hydraulic shops. Did you find something different?
For this reason, I converted the factor pieces to AN-6 and made the soft lines with Earl's hardware. Cost about $150 total.

Doug

[TC_SJ]

Hi Nick

How do you cut thru the crimped end at rubber hose connected to hard metal lines?


can you share some advice

Regards
Tan

[QUOTE=nhromyak
I simply cut the hose and OEM clamps and re-used the hard metal lines. The hard metal lines already have nipples on them.

Then I bought some fuel-injection hose and fuel-injection clamps.

It has been working well for two years now. If a hydraulic shop will do it for $10.00 I would have gone that route though, as the fuel injection hose itself was more than that...

Good luck.[/QUOTE]

[nhromyak]

Originally Posted by TC_SJ

Hi Nick

How do you cut thru the crimped end at rubber hose connected to hard metal lines?


can you share some advice

Regards
Tan

Heh - simply cut the lines is not simple. I ended up using a hack saw and very carefully only cutting the metal crimp 180 degrees from each other.
I did try and use a dremel, but that made a mess when it hit the rubber line.
With two cuts 180 from each other, you can peel back the metal crimp. Pull (tear really) the metal crimp off. Then I used a carpenter's knife and cut the rubber hose off the metal fittings.
The metal fittings have nipples just like a regular fuel line. Be sure to use solid metal crimps. Now it looks like Chevy fuel lines.

In hindsight, it is worth the $10 per connection to have a hydraulic shop do the work.

Have fun!

[TC_SJ]

Thanks Nick

The reason I want to go this route cause I do not want to remove the whole fuel line

Mine leaked on the left side where the air box located.

TC_SJ