Replace oil pipe to trombone??
 

Had an issue that appears to be resolved from a few days ago......thanks Milt, Chuck and all.

I was reading a post from a guy about his 77 running too hot. He questioned whether the thermostat was working properly. One reply, as simple as it sounds, was to feel the pipe with your fingers after the thermostat to see if it's opening.

That made entirely too much sense. Mine has always run hot. I've got trombone on the front, and yes, thermo reactors (I know, I know....they need to come off, I'm just not brave enough yet. Too many horror stories of bolts breaking) I've always thought it ran a little hot because of the thermo reactors.

Anyway, beautiful day here in Atlanta, took it out, got it up to temp and started inspecting.......
Trombone was cool, followed the pipe, cool all the way to the crimp in the pipe right below where the jack plate goes. PO must not had a jack plate!

No wonder this thing runs hot, it's not completely closed, but it's definitely a problem.

My questions are:
1. Do you have to replace the entire pipe from the thermostat to the trombone?
2. How expensive is it?
3. Do you clean out all the pipes "while you're in there" type of thing.

Thanks for the advise.

I found the same thing but it's not running too hot, 220 on a very hot day, I priced the line at pelican, ran i believe about $450, got several replies on my post on different way to get the crimp out, from heating it up then using vice grips etc., one fellow used heat and the compressed air and his looked new. Best of luck, i'll buy one over the winter and probably go with a cooler as well, not looking forward to that one.

Perfect Timing
 

I just purchased that pipe from the local Porsche dealership. If they are willing to give you the PCA (They never ask for proof either) 10% discount, then the cost is $380. I just walked inside from spraying penetrating oil on the fittings and loosening all of the clamps which hold the pipe in place.

My pipe was 85-90% closed from a similar dumba$$ that also jacked my car up at the jack plate.

I have seen posts/threads and spoke to people where they have cut, put a copper sleeve over the pipe to fix, or option #2 would be to pressurize the pipe with compressed air while at the same time heating the spot that has been crushed. This will work but will not fully expand the pipe... not that this is extremely important. These are not high pressure pipes so once the opening is "mostly" fixed you should be all right.

I personally wanted a factory look and figured this was the best option. Also, if you order from the dealership there will be no shipping cost to you. It would be around $125 to ship.

The part numbers are below.

930.207.046.01 (return line that makes a downward bend below the jack point)
930.207.045.01 (supply line, this is one that I had to replace)

Hope this helps. Best of luck to you.

Bryan

The funny thing is, one or another of your oil lines can be restricted as little as 15 percent (I'm guessing) and it has a serious effect on oil flow, thanks to the magic of fluid dynamics. So don't think only the great big crimps are worrisome.

Well, you're thanking me but I'm not sure what I said. However, I can tell you this if memory serves, Pelican's price on Elephant Racing finned lines is less than a stock line. And, you get the added benefit of the fins helping to cool the oil.

And of a Schraeder valve through which, with a little (accent on "little") shop air you can purge the two or three quarts of dirty oil that typically remain in the lines and cooler during a routine oil change. If you're ay-null, that is.

Milt
 

MILT,

Pelican does have the Elephant lines for $355, but that does not include shipping cost. This is why I mentioned that above. The price would be much more expensive.

Bryan

Milt......you said
"My 77 was cold blooded as many are. One thing you have to do is drive these things hard. You can't putt around the neighborhood and expect the motor to stay clean."

I checked all connections and let it eat a little. Running great.

Bryan,
Thats not as bad as I thought. Keep me posted on any issues as you begin replacing the pipe.

Update
 

Sean,

All done. A little finesse when reinstalling the line.

Hint: Follow this order when re-installing the line (only if you are installing the supply line).

1) Hand tighten the front portion first connecting to the flexible end.
2) Loosely put the rubber sleeves around the line where it attaches to the bottom of the car (3 spots).
3) Attach the rear portion of the line to the thermostat (fully tighten)
4) Re-attach the 3 clamps from the bottom
5) Re-attach the 2 flexible clamps in the front fender
6) Final tighten the front line

You should be good to go. Here is a picture of my line. This is how bad it was crushed.

Bryan

How bad do you think this was affecting my cooling?????

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220058320.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220058346.jpg

Ok Bryan, that's bad..even worse than it looked while on the car!

i cannot remember; is it always the same tube that gets crimped by the unknowing mechanic? i am not at home to check my car. it must always be the inner pipe right?

Now, let's see where the temps go...you should see improvement.

Best,

Doyle

easy fix... worked on my oil lines
1. go to the hardware store buy a screw on cap... $1.23
2. find an old hose to connect air line w/ oil line, connect w/ clamps
3. pressurize line, might need about ~90psi
4. heat line using a torch, move around the crushed area
5. be amazed and let the compressor do the work:)

Hellloooo!!!
 

Paging Sean M to the Porsche isle. Have you had a chance to look at the posts above. Have you made a decision on what you are going to do?

Just giving you a hard time. Let us know.

Bryan

maxporsche,

Do you have a photo of this setup? I have a crushed line as well and I'm trying to decide if I should try to fix it, buy OEM, or buy ER finned line to replace. The line is already off the car and I have a compressor so I'd like to try option 1 first.

Frank

I fixed mine with 3/4" copper house pipe and fittings and silver solder. Its been holding for 8k miles with no issues. I replaced the trombone with a carrera cooler at the same time

Bryan,
I'm here.......not sure what I'm going to do yet. First things first, I'm going to get the line off the car, see how bad it really is.

I'll let you know.

Thanks for the help.

Guys........just thinking out loud here.

The elephant racing pipe's about $400. My car is just a weekend, nice day driver.

I've never used solder or any type welding. Can't I just take the pipe to a shop or get a plumber to cut it and weld a new piece in it's place for about $50?

How did this workout for you?
 

Hello

Exactly my question, is it possible to go to "local plumber"?

mike

im sure its possible. youve just got to make some witness marks on them and get everything mocked up the way you want it first. you cant solder it on the car anyway. have them use silver solder its higher temperature