How bad is this?
 

OK, so total newbie here, if not to actual cars, then to pretty much everything else having to do with them including working on them. Certainly to Porsches. Just got my first though, 1977 911s. And I am hooked.

As a preface: I am a very technically oriented person so I think i can do a lot of the work (I have 101 Porsche Projects, having only read them and never actually done any...i think I would tackle a 2 mechanic project) However, the most I have ever done to a car is change the oil.

So here is the question: is this bad? I am referring to the ignition wires having lost the rubber gaskets on some of them. The picture below shows one side, where one gasket is remaining, the other two just sort of rattling around in there. the car runs great, starts right up, power is very smooth (as far as I can tell). Haven't pulled ducts to properly inspect the other side yet.

The only issue I can tell is that when it is warm, it does not do so well not revved- in other words I go out for a drive, then the last five minutes back through town when i am going slower, there is a good deal of hickups- like it is not getting gas consistently at times.

So, should I not drive until this is fixed? New lines or just gaskets? Is this "DON"T DRIVE!!" or "maybe not drive as much until is is fixed..."

Thanks, and thanks for all the advice I have already gotten!
tom
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220457540.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220457596.jpg

Welcome. Those "gaskets" are the plug air seal. You should have them to keep engine cooling at an optimum. I bet most of them have just fallen down inside the valve cover, but still attached to the spark plug boot. Just pull the plug boot and slide them back into place. If they are missing Pelican sells them. They are easy to change out.

If the car is new to you and you don't know its maintenance history you should do a base line tune up. Plugs, points, condensor, rotor, distributor cap. Air filter. Change oil and oil filter. That is just a start. Have fun!

thanks! makes me feel a little better...

Hi Tom!

Nice looking car and welcome to the board! Kurt is correct on the full tune up routine if you do not know when the last tune was. That may solve your low rpm hic-ups or not. Observe the plug colors, are they fouled in any way? Did you do a PPI? If so, what were the compression numbers or leakdown numbers? Did they test the CIS pressures? If no PPI, then you have your diagnosis work cut out for you ;)

Also, As you know, you are in a 2.7s and they have been known to cause some problems due to heat. Do a search here and you will find many threads on what you can do to alleviate the problems if it has not already been done.

As a technically inclined fellow who started on his 911 almost 10 years ago w/ absolutley no car expertise I can tell you that you will be using this board a LOT. No matter what the question you will mostlikey find a discussion on it here. Perhaps not the exact answer you are looking for, but you will gain enough knowledge to ask the right question for us to answer :)

Best regards,

Michael

Tom, you might want to have a good Porsche shop in your area help you get the car sorted out.

I hate to admit...I did not have a PPI done. I did a lot or research (here and elsewhere) and learned all about the 2.7's... this one has had the chain tensioner upgrade, though not positive on the studs replacement (I know- I may be in for it...) but I was told that it is possible to tell if they have been replaced if they react to a magnet (they did) - in that the originals had no ferrous material in them so they would not react...sound reasonable? I did make sure that my mechanic had experience with porsches in this year.

Tom,

I didn't have a PPI done on mine either - not saying that is a good thing, but you can get away with it.

The head studs are not the problem with a 2.7 - It's the engine case that the studs pull out of. Heat is the enemy here, you want to get rid of the thermal reactors if your exhaust has them, and make sure you have an external front oil cooler.

As others have mentioned, do a tune up first. Your issue with running poorly after a long run may be due to air leaks - but do a tune up first.

Nice car & color!

I'd try to figure out where all that oily gunk is coming from. Usually the intake valve covers aren't all full of goo ...

I got a PPI done by a reputable shop when I bought mine, and they missed a fairly long laundry list of expensive common problems ... i suspect some PPI's consist of a Joyride followed by cashing a $250 check and laughing heartily.

Welcome to P-car ownership. Where in Oregon are you?

The good news that if your car is a 100% nw car, you may be ok with the head stud issue for now.

Dilavar is a special STEEL alloy that has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, closer to that of Aluminum and Magnesium alloys. This lessens the stress on the engine as parts warm up and expand. They are not being clamped harder when warm when Dilavar studs are used.

Being steel, they will be at least slightly attracted to a magnet. You cannot tell conclusively with that test.

Have fun with the car. I enjoy working on mine almost as much as driving it.

SmileWavy

welcome.
re: the oily mess, is that the right side of the engine? could the PO have repeatedly spilled oil out of the filter when doing oil changes and not cleaned it up or do you have a leak? I would figure that out as well. Should not be so oily in that spot in my opinion but other than the oil filter or a bad valve cover gasket, im not sure what else it could be

Let me add my welcome to the others Tom and also my compliments on a great color and clean looking car!

Most of your concerns have been addressed but I would really suggest a full check out of ignition and CIS systems by an experienced Porsche mechanic--it's well worth the cost to let an expert sort out the engine and "dial it in" so you have an idea what it should be like when all is well. The key here is to find someone you completly trust and who might even encourage you to look over his shoulder when working on your car.

By the way, I think Scott nailed the oily mess. I can see part of the air valve so the shot is of the passenger side of the engine and the mess on the rubber gasket and plug connectors is no doubt from oil dripping from the filler neck and or oil can when being topped off. Just ugly, nothing to worry about.

Enjoy the ride and work with pride! Welcome aboard.

+1 on the cis system. I have been a hobbiest for many years and I just took my SC down to a shop to get the gremlins out of the cis. I ended up spending $267 for what would have taken me 1 or more weekends to figure out. Now the car runs perfect.

Welcome and nice car.

I purchased my 1977 911S without a PPI six years ago, and I'm still working though the "to do" list and the upgrades.

Welcome to the club.

Tip: A clean engine is easier to work on than a dirty one. Don't let spray on engine cleaners on your paint though.

I spent three weeks in Oregon recently, lots of old VW's and Porsche's there. I would love to tackle some of those hills and mountain drives in a P-car.:)

Thanks all for the warm welcome! Harry, I am out here in Hood River. Not yet a member of the Porsche club but soon. I think I will take the advice of a few of you to get a run through of important components and replace the fluids so I know what i am dealing with here.

Plenty of most excellent mechanics here in Portland. We have several members who live out your way as well.

If want, check out the club by joining us for the Club's next "Arrive and Drive" tour. Details here: http://www.oregonpca.org/events/arrive-drive/

Have a need for speed? Try a DE (http://www.oregonpca.org/events/drivers-ed/)

Have a need to compete? Try an Autocross (http://www.oregonpca.org/events/autocross/)