skillet to heater blower

[dfink]

This is my story of converting my heater blower (85 carrera cab) to the dayton motor. I am not the first to cover this topic. The article I used as a guide is Carrera replacement heater blower (long) and was posted by wavey who says he also got it from another. I hope I have a few additional pictures and some possibly usefull information.
the parts used were;
Grainger motor number 2M197
Grainger bushing number 6L100
Hardware store 8mm X 70mm standard thread for mount
Hardware store 10-32 X 5/16 set screw
Old skillet.

This is a picture of the original layout of the fan. It shows the position of the wires and the mounts.


I am going to skip a detailed process of getting the blower out of the car as it is a pretty easy process. It all comes out as a unit after disconnecting the wires and the 3 mounting nuts. Loosen the clamp on the rubber connector and the bolts holding on the discharge duct.



The first step to replacement is to remove the nut on the fan cage. This is best done with an impact wrench. A 1/2" socket works great and mine came off with one short blip. I guess you could do this after the motor is out of the shroud but I didn't know that at the time. (sorry for the poor picture(



Next remove the three lock nuts holding the fan to the shroud and the screw that holds the wires. The motor should now come out of the shroud and the fan cage should easily come off the shaft. This is where it got interesting for me. I was hopeful that I could use the mounting plate from the old motor but due to the way it is constructed and the mounting lugs for the new motor it seemed to be better to replace the plate. I wasn't sure where to get 1/8" aluminum plate. On the web, suppliers wanted $10 - $12 for 12X12 plus shipping. This is when I ran across a box of old pans. Perfect for what I needed.



I used a jigsaw to cut a 4.75" circle from the bottom of the skillet. Remember next time you are shopping for pans to get one with registration marks on the bottom so it is easier to use on your car one day.



I then used a 1" hole saw to remove the center. This leaves plenty of room for the bearing cup on the dayton motor. The saw I had was not very sharp and was out of round. I managed to get an OK hole but use a decent saw and you should be able to keep things centered better than mine. I then marked the location of the mounting holes using the original motor plate as a guide.



The distance for the motor mounting bolts was 2.25" or 1.125" from the center. To mount the motor to the plate I removed the nuts from the motor to get a flush fit to the plate. I then used locktite and double nutted the motor to the plate.
The next step was to make a hole in the fan hub for the set screw. I decided to use a 10-32 X 5/16 set screw. I though about using a 1/4" dia. but it just looked too big. To gain access to the hub for drilling. I used varing sizes of drill bits to create a hole between two of the blades. I inserted at an angle between the blades then slowly rocked the blades into the bit. Sort of like wobbeling out a hole to make it bigger. Others have removed blades but I didn't want to lose any more efficiency out the fan. You really have to remove only a small amount to gain access and it didn't appear to unbalance the fan as it is has no vibration.



The 10-32 tap requires a #21 drill which I didn't have. I made due with a 5/32 drill bit but I think it would work better to use the #21. Remember to use proper tapping technique. Turn in a bit then back out, then in, then out. I used locktite on the set screw. When putting the fan back on I positioned it pretty much centered in the shroud. Originally it was mounted further toward the back of the shroud. I did this to clear the mounting bolts of the motor and thought it may help with the efficiency of the fan. If you can support the hub while drilling. It is very easy to warp the back plate. I didn't do this and had to bend everything back straight again. After a few trys all was nice and straight. Make sure to give a few test spins by hand before cranking up the fan or you might wobble to death.



The final part of the conversion if the wiring. The dayton fan has no primary rotation. It will go either direction depending on how it is wired. I wasn't sure of the configuration so used wire nuts as a test.



I found that in my case the black wire on the motor had to be attached to the yellow/black wire and the red wire on the motor went to the brown wire for the car. It is very easy to tell which way it works one way it will blow only a little and one way it will blow alot. I think that some are connecting the black to the brown and that is why they are not getting very good air flow when completed.

After doing my wire test I soldered the wires and used heat shrink for protection.



I did have to replace the bolt for the bracket clamp. I was going to just wire tie it on but thought with vibration the assembly might have a tendancy to come apart. Clamp fits very well with just a little longer bolt I believe I used an 8mm X 70mm $.67 at ACE.
As stated in earlier posts the next replacement shouldn't take more than a few minutes. Even with the car not running I can feel air coming out the front floor vents. And no more squeal. Total cost for the project including the tap and tap holder was under $50.00 and took about 4 hours. Most of the time spent looking for tools. I hope this post isn't too redundant.

[3.2 CAB]

EXCELLENT!!!!! First class post.

[djmcmath]

You have got to be kidding me! That's just about the coolest thing I've seen all day long!! Wow, if I could do all of my Porsche maintenance with kitchenware ...


Dan

[vash]

macgyver!

[TopsailBeach]

Yep, it works fine--I finished mine last night--great information and a tremendous cost saving idea! I'm struggling, though, trying to figure out why my footwell blowers only work for a second or two when turned on. The engine blower works fine.

When the orginal motor burned out (and I mean burned out) could the relay have been fried, or am I missing something?

[efhughes3]

Thanks for the post. I just bought one of these motors a few weeks ago. As I was commencing to take the old one out, I happened to look at the rear fuse box, and guess what I found?

Well, since a new fuse fixed the problem I still have my new Dayton motor. My question is: do these motors turn any more RPM's than stock, thereby delivering more air?

[david914]

Not in my experience. If anything, they don't deliver as much air. I installed one on my SC and could hardly tell the difference between no motor and the Dayton motor. The Carrera heater system may be more efficient and condusive to using the Dayton motor however.

[cgarr]

What was wrong with the orginal motor, I had one that I fixed with new springs and brushes, Do you still have the old motor?

Craig

[emcon5]

The only time the blower fan really does anything is at idle or just above. Above that, the engine fan moves much more air. To quote my old mechnic "It is for the women"

Cool job though. Outstanding use of crap-that-was-laying-around to fabricate Porsche parts.

I don't know about in your area, but around here the local hardware store carries a variety of sheet metals. I would think 14ga aluminum sheet or even 16ga steel would work. A small sheet of steel was about $4, aluminum was a little more, but under $10.

Nice work.

Tom

[Quicksilver]

Hey if you teflon coated the whole inside of it you could use it to scramble eggs on your skillet without any of it sticking. I think I will give Ronco a call.

Did the same basic thing to my car (minus the skillet bit) a few years ago when I choked on the idea of a $250 motor that doesn't even have a replaceable bearing.

Wayne

[Decolliber]

Originally posted by emcon5
The only time the blower fan really does anything is at idle or just above. Above that, the engine fan moves much more air.

Doesn't the engine fan blow blow air down over the outside of the engine? How does it propel air through the heating system into the cabin?

[emcon5]

Originally posted by Decolliber
Doesn't the engine fan blow blow air down over the outside of the engine? How does it propel air through the heating system into the cabin?

[Chuck Jones]

Just ran acrosss this thread after being referred to it by another fellow...have been following the thread and the links....and this has helped me immensley in solving my problem...although I have yet to tackle it....but the diagrams and "how-to" from the collective genius of the entire group is commendable....and helps me save some money in the process. Thank you all.

Chuck

[3.2 CAB]

Chuck, mine went bad 2 or 3 yrs ago. I replaced it with a 914 motor. I still had to use the original cage fan, due to the angle of the blades on the 914 were different than the 911 fan. I bought the like new fan/motor on eBay for about $16.00 shipped. It seems to actually move more air than the 911 fan/motor did, while it was working. It still is doing fine. Oh, the other thing was the electrical connector was different, I had to swap that out also. Good luck!! Tony.