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jluetjen's Avatar
 
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Loose Bulbs in Front Directional Buckets

I've got my car's safety inspection in a couple of months and there is one problem that I can never seem to get resolved to my satisfaction. The front directional bulbs just can't seem to get a good connection in the sockets. The bulbs are pretty new and I've swapped them out when troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure that they are not the problem.

I've checked the grounds in the buckets, cleaned them and reassembled with dielectric grease. They're not the problem.

I can wiggle the bulbs in the sockets and get the directional lights to work, but it takes only the slightest touch, bump or vibration for them to move and lose the connection again. I've even tried some wacky stuff like shimming the bulbs with aluminum foil, but there really isn't enough space.

Has anyone else seen this problem? Are there some slight differences in the bulbs that might cause this issue?

Any ideas what to do now?

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John
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:41 AM
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I have experienced the same thing, but have not come up with a solution.

Looking forward to see if there are any suggestions out there.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:13 AM
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Can you put a bead of solder on the side contact of the bulb? This is easily removable later.

How about increasing the spring tension of the 12V contact (bend the tab toward the bulb)?
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:57 AM
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I've tried bending the tab towards the bulb (I forgot to mention that) but it didn't seen to make any difference. That being said, I was kind of cautious since I didn't want to just break the tab off, it's 40 years old next month!

To be honest, I'm not sure if I even really understand the failure mode.

1) The tab is getting good contact with the bulb, because the bulb is being pushed back into the slots. I see clean copper on the tab too.
2) The tangs are fully engaged with the slots on the sockets -- the bulbs are not falling out.
3) If I remember correctly, the bulb is grounding through the outside surface of the bulb. It's getting 12v through the tab at the bottom of the socket that contacts with the center of the bulb.
4) Even though the tangs are engaged, the bulb isn't grounding, so...
a) the tangs are not grounding in the slots, ...
.1 ) because the slots are dirty, or...
.2 ) because the plating in the slots has worn away.
b) the body is not grounding in the stocket unless I wiggle the bulb since I assume wiggling the bulb doesn't substantially engage the tangs in the slots.
.1 ) because the modern bulbs may be slightly undersize to the stocket
.2 ) because the socket is worn

Any other ideas?
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'69 911E

"It's a poor craftsman who blames their tools" -- Unknown
"Any suspension -- no matter how poorly designed -- can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving." -- Colin Chapman
Old 08-27-2008, 09:42 AM
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Can you add a bead of solder on the side contact of the bulb (the ground)?

I believe the entire slot is grounded, not just the tangs. By increasing the outer diameter of the bulb contact, maybe you can more reliable contact.

Doug
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:45 AM
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what I've done is add a little more solder to the existing solder on the bulbs. I discovered from switching multiple bulbs to find one that works that some have more than others.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:52 AM
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I did this in the rear ... might work in front too.

rear tail light housing bulb ground repair
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:08 PM
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I've had your problem and bought a can of electrical contact fluid. I removed all bulbs and fuses and sprayed the fluid at all the contact points. Everything works fine now.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
Can you add a bead of solder on the side contact of the bulb (the ground)?

I believe the entire slot is grounded, not just the tangs. By increasing the outer diameter of the bulb contact, maybe you can more reliable contact.

Doug
Bingo Doug! That did it!

I've had that problem for years and your suggestion fixed it. It took more then a few minutes to get the base of the bulb hot enough to get some decent solder. Then I ended up with too much, but a minute or two with a moto-tool took off just enough for a snug fit. Thanks for the suggestion.
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'69 911E

"It's a poor craftsman who blames their tools" -- Unknown
"Any suspension -- no matter how poorly designed -- can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving." -- Colin Chapman
Old 09-12-2008, 04:31 PM
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I solved mine by making a 90° hook from piano wire and using it to bend the contacts upward. That created a firm connection that has lasted a few years.
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Old 09-12-2008, 04:35 PM
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John,
GREAT! You are welcome! I'll employ the solution myself, when my sockets wear out a bit more.

Doug

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Old 09-12-2008, 04:36 PM
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