Problem with ignition switch wires
 

I am having a hard time figuring out if my wires are in correct position. (see picture):rolleyes:

I had a trouble contact with the yellow one so I decided to open the plastic ring without precaution : bad idea!! Most of the wires were not tight and they all disconnect themselves...

Does everyone has any diagram that shows the correct connections for that ?

Thanks in advance,

GQhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221354858.jpg

At least put your car's year/model in your sig or (better) put in the post what we're looking at here...

Wiring diagrams changed almost every year, although I think that particular harness stayed the same from 74-89 (I know an '86 one worked fine on my '77).

911t 2.2l 1970

Sorry!

GQSmileWavy

Did my best on the description, hope this is clear enough.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221420577.jpg

For a 911T/E/S, "31" is the ignition switch. Hope you can read it.

The diagram is undated, but the diagram for "911T/911E/911S model 71" is on the next page and is different.

The "harness" I'm talking about here is my spare ignition harness, not yours... I don't actually know what it is from, I think it it came with an early ignition lock/key I bought from a guy in Germany. It works fine for ignition on my '77.

Here's a shot of the inside:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221427685.jpg


The fat yellow solenoid feed wire in the diagram connects to terminal 50 in the plug. In the picture of my harness, that is directly above my thumb, to the left of the main bundle of wires and is just visible (roughly a 7 o'clock position in the orientation I'm hoding it in the photograph)..

The wiring diagram shows it going to the 14-pin connector in the engine bay (which is definately where it goes on my car).

There's no marks I can see on the 6 pin bulkhead plug. Hold the keyed 6-pin connection up, looking into the bowl of the male end. Key slot down at 6 o'clock, empty pin at 12 o'clock. I'll call the first pin clockwise from the empty pin hole "1", the next "2" etc. The last pin will be "5" in that connector, and "6" would be the empty hole.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221427245.jpg

The fat yellow solenoid wire goes to pin 5 on the 6-pin plug (and from there to the 14-pin connector in the engine bay).

On my harness, the next hole (going around clockwise) is empty. The "15" on the plug body appears mid-way between the two terminals, and the back of the ignition switch seems to show that they're ganged. The wiring diagram also shows an empty connector.

The next pin "15" has a fat red wire with a black stripe (you cannot see the black stripe in the photo, unfortunately), and it goes to pin 4 on the 6-pin plug. Wiring diagram shows this connected to fuse 7 in the trunk fusebox, "fresh air fan".

The next hole is labelled "R" and the diagram seems to show it as a switched radio connection. My harness has a skinny yellow wire in there which terminates on my harness as a flying lead (cut off, I have no idea how it ends on an unmolested car).

The next two are both fat red wires. These two terminals are ganged together and labelled "30". The first red wire goes to pin "1" on the 6-pin connector, and the second red wire goes to pin "2" on the 6-pin connector. If I'm reading the diagram correctly, these are both unfused feeds connected directly to the positive battery terminal. Whee....

The next two wires are ganged in the ignition switch and labelled "X" on the harness connector. The first wire is red with a white stripe and comes out as a flying lead (cut off on my harness). Wiring diagram shows this as a connection to the "fanfare horn".

The next wire is red with a yellow stripe and goes to pin "4" on the 6-pin connector. Wiring digram shows the red/yellow wire goes to fuse 5 in the trunk fusebox (sliding roof).

The next pin is also labelled "30" on the ignition switch. On my harness, it has two wires, one fat plain red wire and one skinny yellow wire with a red stripe. Both are flying leads (just cut on my harness). Wiring diagram may indicate that these supply "Blinker, dimming, headlight flasher, wiper/washer switcher".

The last pin is labelled "P" on the harness connector, and is a skinny grey wire that ends in a booted male spade. Wiring diagram shows this as going to "57a", which may or may not be the oil pressure gauge.

Spuggy,

Sweet post!

Best,

Doyle

Thanks Spuggy,

I just spent the last hour taking picture of what I have in the hope I would get exactly what you sent.

Got to do the puzzle and hope I get it right.

Thanks!

chris
73 911 E

Thanks Spuggy,

I just spent the last hour taking picture of what I have in the hope I would get exactly what you sent.

Followed your description closely and got it right the first time:-) Mine is a little different in that I have an empty terminal at 30 in the 4:00 position.

Many Thanks!

Chris
73 911 E

This one is a bit clearer. Hope it helps. I have the entire one page diagram and will send it to you if you pm me your e-mail. I scanned at a very high resolution and the two files are 6mb each. Can't post that detail here.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276802012.jpg

Thanks Bob,

After replacing the ignition switch I still don't have power to the yellow wires on the starter. I ran a wire from the starter to the engine compartment and it starts when connected to positive power.

Do you have the scematic of the multipin connector in the engine compartment? I believe I need to replace the wire from the multipin to the starter. But I don't know which wire / pin to test/replace.

Thanks,

Chris
73 911 E

I have issues :-(

I double checked my wiring of the ignition switch and am fairly confident it's correct. It differs a little from Spuggy's pic in that I have empty pins on 15 and 30 (between P and 30 I have a pin hole with no connector). I believe this corresponds correctly with the diagram.

My issue is that with the no key turn at all (key out of ignition) I have 12 volts out of the fat yellow wire (50). I turn the key and it drops to 0 volts. I turn the key all the way to the start position and I get 12 volts like I should. So why do I have 12 volts out of 50 with the ignition turned off?

If I pull each fuse individually from all fuse boxes. I still have 12 volts to the 50 terminal (yellow starter wire).

Lastly, why are there two yellow wires at the starter. Where does the other one go?

nothings easy :-(

Chris

73 911 E

Apparently the new ignition switch was defective. Got another new one and everything works perfectly.

Go figure. Spent hours troubleshooting this problem and it was two bad ignitions switches.

On the road again...

Chris

73 911 E

Hi, I am new to this forum. I have a 1973 911 T or E. The engine, is not original, my mechanic thinks it is a 1970-71 2.0 or 2.2 H6 and it is carborated. My Ignition switch fell apart and I am trying to put it back together following Spuggy post. The problem is that mine does not as much wires to go around like yours.

A. Going clockwise, I am okay up to "R".

B. The 2 fat red wires that go to pin "1" & "2" on the 6-pin connector, does it matter which one goes first?

C. Then I have 2 wires left. One with yellow strip coming off of the 6-pin connector. I am thinking it goes to one of the holes by the "X", which hole though, the 2 o'clock or 3 o'clock position?

D. The other one is red with white stripe, it is cut-off, it must then go to the "30" hole at about 4 o'clock.

I hope I am explaning it enough. If necessary, I could snap some pictures and show you what mine switch looks like

Thanks for the help in advance.

Xing

Spuggy, Thanks so much for the diagram and explanation of ignition harness wiring. I have an 82 911sc that I had replaced the ignition switch on last year. Car had been starting fine until a few months ago. Would start sometimes, and other times it would take a few tries. Figured it couldn't be the switch, since it was recently replaced. Tried looking at everything else I could think of, or read about. I came to the conclusion that it had to be the switch, but I was not 100% sure, and didn't want to throw away $150 for nothing. With the help of your diagram, I pulled the harness from the back of the switch. I hooked up a volt meter to the #30 hole (ganged red wires), and it showed full power. Bingo. Confirmed the ignition switch was getting power. Then I ran a wire from the positive battery terminal directly to the #50 hole (yellow starter wire) and BINGO, the engine cranked like no tomorrow. Conclusion......Last ignition switch was a piece of crap and I need to get a new original Porsche switch. Luckily I did not re-install the shear bolts last time - used hex screws, so can take them out in seconds. Hopes this help others to diagnose the non-crank / non-start issue. Thanks again!

I'm not getting power to the CDI box, but every thing ells works.
Hopefully its the ignition switch that's broken but the wire diagram mentioned would be handy. Not able to contact directly.
I have a 911 SC 1980.

I'm wondering if I have an ignition switch problem.

Which wire provides power to the coil?

Thanks