gunter
 

I have had the car for 8 years, it ran great for the first 5. The spiced green wire has always been there.

As we have discussed before, the fuel pump runs with the ignition "on". And if you push up on the throttle plate you hear that squeal noise.

If i take the injectors out can you visual inspect the little screens? im tempted to just go ahead and replace them unless someone tells me different or cleaning is worth a shot. Im not sure how im going to get six little bottles in there to test the flow.

Electric plug 9886
 

there is a plug, two pin female round, like a trailer hitch connection with the markings 9886 germany, red/white and brown wires. The electric diagram (Haynes) says it could be the temperature valve, the supplimentary air valve or the warm up regulator. I know its not the wur, that is hooked up. the wire is routed up near the distributor and could reach 8" from there. Any clue where this goes? I dont know if it fell off or its always been this way.

gunter help
 

ok i did the spark test. i pulled the spark plug cable and left the plug in the engine, i had an old spark plug for the test. i got spark, nice and white but not the consistant repetitive spark i was hoping for. the car was sputtering trying to start. now i had a wire wrapped around the spark plug threaded part and grounded to a bolt on the engine cooling shroud. i t sure sounds like it wants to start. maybe the CDI is screwed up but i do get the high pitch noise.

With that finding I doubt a bad CDI box for now. If you get sparks I think your issue is mixture-related. A CDI box that locks up under temperature will not give you any sparks at all.

Ingo

Thermovalce connector.....
 

White,

I have responded to your other post regarding this subject. That's the thermovalve plug or connector. You don't need this connector. '80-'83 SC's don't have TV.

Have you connected the vacuum lines you had disconnected and plugged? Double check for vacuum leak. With every CIS components on spec, a significant vacuum leak will prevent the engine to start or idle.

Tony

spark test didnt go well
 

i pulled one spark plug cable and inserted an old plug. I grounded the threaded part of the plug with a wire and connected the wire to the engine fan shroud. I got spark but not the repetititve spark i would expect. the engine sputtered but did not start. maybe the CDI did fail . Am i correct that if i get intermittant spark its not the coil?

vacuum
 

i have been tracing vacuum leaks on this car for 3 years, if they are there i cant find them but who knows. but lets assume there was a vacuum leak, if i push up on the throttle plate it would let fuel in and the car would start, correct? again i got spark but it would go several engine rotations with no spark then one or two. unless i didnt have it grounded right i would call it intermitant.

White,

Did you mean air sensor plate? With the ignition switch ON, lifting the AFS (air flow sensor) will allow the injectors to spray fuel. It may or may not facilitate your starting. What you need during start is an atomized spray (fuel) not a puddle of fuel sitting in the intake manifold.

Have you confirmed that the CSV is injecting fuel during START? And all 7 injectors are not leaking? What control and system pressures you're getting now? You need consistent ignition or spark not intermittent.

Hook up a timing ligth (strobe type) and crank the engine several times. Observe if the timing light is getting any signal. Keep us posted.

Tony

That does not mean it has not failed now. The spliced wire is a bad idea, you should change it to a proper connection/new wire. I know this because the same issue happened to my 79 911SC. Ran a sliced wire for a few years and then went bad.
Did you see fuel on or smell the plugs when you pulled them to see if your getting fuel in all cylinders?

green wire
 

i checked the green wire, it was spliced by the previous owner but it looks like it was done properly.

i backed the throttle air screw out a bit and tried to start it. sure sounded like it wanted to but nothing.

CDI failed?
 

Ok i took the cable off the center of the distributor, it was somewhat corroded, cleaned it and tried sparking it to ground. I get hot spark but not the rat ta tat tat that you would expect. The green wire looks good. So for those of you that have been following this thread. The CDI is on its way to california for a rebuild or replacement. Does anyone know how to check the coil, OHMS.

next move help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

ok heres the plan, the CDI is going out for analysis repair or replacement, i could use help checking the coil. Why would a spliced green wire work and then fail? unless it broke? Also going to remove soak and clean all seven injectors. Any secrets to getting the cold start valve out? Dont tell me to drop the engine, ill drop kick you.

I can only repeat what I've said previously re: cold-start components. :)

The Lambda system and the Bosch CIS will work as designed; disconnecting stuff can only be done if you know what you're doing.

Forget the Haynes and get the Bentley SC Repair Manual so you can see what each of the many CIS-components is supposed to do and how to test them.

Trouble-shooting is a process of elimination; you check the parts that work.
Any changes made to the factory set-up have to done by someone who knows exactly what effect it'll have.

Get the Bentley; you'll love it. ;)

some success
 

Installed rebuilt bosch CDI last weekend.

Engine started great, i think it was running rich but no backfiring. I really thought I was done with all this and just needed someone with an exhaust sensor to fine tune it.

Removed the pressure gauge one week later.

Car started but now im back to a lean situation and backfiring again.

Im going to reinstall the pressure gauge and recheck the control and operating pressure.

But i think theres some vacuum leak thats intermitant. Somewhere around the left side of the rubber injection boot, which is new. Or behind it , or maybe further left and down under the heater blower motor.

I sprayed some starting fluid down there and the enginer rpms picked up and it ran nice for 30 seconds.

Checking the brake booster line too.

Just keeping you all up to date.

I really thought i had it fixed last week.

I suspected that your problem was not the CDI module.

Quote:

"Car started but now im back to a lean situation and backfiring again.

Typical symptoms of a vacuum leak.

"I sprayed some starting fluid down there and the engine rpms picked up and it ran nice for 30 seconds."

You've found the problem.

DO NOT use starter fluid, it's highly flammable and can blow right back in your face.
Besides, spraying it in a general direction will not tell you where exactly where the leak is.
Acetylene torch with a small nozzle is best for pin-pointing; just the gas, no OX.
Next best thing is a Propane torch with a fine nozzle.
You need to point right at suspected parts like lines, boots, gaskets etc. to narrow it down.

The usual suspects are airbox, intake runner boots and intake runner gaskets on the heads, brake boost lines, all vacuum lines including the breather hoses going to the oil filler stud.

Did you get the Bentley?

gunther
 

Gunther,

The CDI had two failure modes, erratic spark at start up, and complete failure at the high temp test.

I got a rebuilt one and the car started great.

I know about the starting fluid, just another near death experience for me.

I have the fine torch fitting and some propane but Im going to replace alot of hoses first.

The intake rubber collars look very good.

I am very suspicious of the vacuum line that goes from the warm up regulator to the left side of the intake.

Since I had an intermittant vacuum problem. and that hose gets pushed around when you install and remove the fuel pressure guage.

I got 10 feet of hose last night, try again later.

Stay tune, I should have an answer in the next few days.