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What is the procedure for checking my ball joints

I looked briefly in my Bentley and it tells how to change them, but not how to check them.

1986 911

Thanks in advance

an astute girlfriend can do this & it is much more pleasurable than a doctor visit

for your car's ball joints:

Ball Joints

Inspection
Use a pry bar and see if the strut moves upward when you pry between the control arm and bottom of the strut. If there is play, change them. While robust, they wear. They are not hard to change but be prepared to use some force to unscrew the retaining collar if they are original.

- with the wheel off...give a good tug on the brake disc at 12-6 o'clock and again at 9-3 o'clock. Feel for tightness.

- place a crow-bar or similar tool between the ball joint and the attachment point and "wiggle" it up and down and check for noticable movement. Shouldn't be any.

As the ball joint wears, it first has up and down movement. So if you can move the control arm up and down in relation to the strut, then they are tired.

You may try pulling the boot and looking in to see if they are dry and have the tell-tale "red dust" of metal-on-metal wear from being dry.

- Jack the front of the car off the ground and have someone hold the steering wheel for you. Grab and shake the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, if you feel some play, the ball joint is shot. 3 and 9 o'clock will check tie rod.

- With the front jacked up, turn the front wheels to full lock while watching the ball joint. If it’s worn you’ll see vertical movement when the wheels hit full lock.

- with the steering wheel locked...do a 9-3 o'clock again and look for slop or play at the tie-rod ends… also at the opposite ends near the steering rack.

Look around for torn boots, rubber pieces, etc.

Replacement
Parts

Tools
$50 socket from Pelican or… Go to Discount Auto with the ball joint nut (you should install new ones also) look for a 4X4 hub socket that'll fit. It may be a little sloppy but put a jack under it while you torque. It should only run you about $10.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 4198872)

an astute girlfriend can do this & it is much more pleasurable than a doctor visit
+1;)

for your car's ball joints:

Ball Joints

Inspection
Use a pry bar and see if the strut moves upward when you pry between the control arm and bottom of the strut. If there is play, change them. While robust, they wear. They are not hard to change but be prepared to use some force to unscrew the retaining collar if they are original.
PB Blaster, Time, and Heat may be used to augment the amount of force needed to remove the castle nuts that hold the ball joint in place. Most guys recommend NOT using the Pelican Parts castle nut wrench for removing the nuts. However it worked like a champ for me in both the removal and installation of the castle nuts. Just make sure you support the tool properly.

- with the wheel off...give a good tug on the brake disc at 12-6 o'clock and again at 9-3 o'clock. Feel for tightness.

- place a crow-bar or similar tool between the ball joint and the attachment point and "wiggle" it up and down and check for noticable movement. Shouldn't be any.

As the ball joint wears, it first has up and down movement. So if you can move the control arm up and down in relation to the strut, then they are tired.

You may try pulling the boot and looking in to see if they are dry and have the tell-tale "red dust" of metal-on-metal wear from being dry.

- Jack the front of the car off the ground and have someone hold the steering wheel for you. Grab and shake the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, if you feel some play, the ball joint is shot. 3 and 9 o'clock will check tie rod.

- With the front jacked up, turn the front wheels to full lock while watching the ball joint. If it’s worn you’ll see vertical movement when the wheels hit full lock.

- with the steering wheel locked...do a 9-3 o'clock again and look for slop or play at the tie-rod ends… also at the opposite ends near the steering rack.
Ball joints are wear items...If you have 100K-150k miles you might as well change them even if you dont feel slop when checking for movement.
P.S. I use a 1" travel dial indicator when checking for movement.

Look around for torn boots, rubber pieces, etc.

Replacement
Parts

Tools
$50 socket from Pelican or… Go to Discount Auto with the ball joint nut (you should install new ones also) look for a 4X4 hub socket that'll fit. It may be a little sloppy but put a jack under it while you torque. It should only run you about $10.

:eek:

Thank you RWebb, and Nine96.

I have made an appointment with the GF, and will have her spend some time practicing "the procedure" :D

As for the car.... I will inspect it tonight... It has 250k + miles, and is receiving at least a partial suspension refresh this fall/winter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 4198872)

Jack the front of the car off the ground and have someone hold the steering wheel for you. Grab and shake the front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, if you feel some play, the ball joint is shot. 3 and 9 o'clock will check tie rod..

I thought that was the procedure for checking wheel bearing play. And there should be some!

Thank for everyones help. My ball joints turned out to be fine, no play in any direction, no brown dust, moved freely through the entire range of motion, and the boots looked fairly new.

What I did discover is that my front struts were toast, probably original to the car. I put Bilsteen sports on all 4 corners, made a world of difference in the overall handling of the car.

how do you check your strut, may I ask?

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnln (Post 4222265)

how do you check your strut, may I ask?

I think that's between him & his GF.