H4 Headlight upgrade - bottom screw?
 

I just installed the Hella H4 headlight assemblies on my 1986 Targa to replace the sugar scoops. I do not have the paintable trim rings right now, but my question is, the screw that holds the assembly to the fender, how far in should it thread. I can only get them to go in a little. Is this normal. You can see in the photo, it looks like it should go in more, but both left and right are identical. They both went in about 4 turns only. I took off the black rubber piece (inside the assy) that was holding the screws to the headlights to make it easier to get the screws started. I assume that piece was only to retain the screws so they do not get lost. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222395911.jpg
Also, attaching a photo of the whole car because I always like seeing photos of everyone's car.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222395941.jpg
Thanks.

You have to take the plastic sleeve off. It's on there to keep the screws from getting lost in shipping.

I just did this project and I had to clean the threads with a tap. It wasn't easy like I expected it to be. Don't know why....

You mean the black one that was inside the headlight, not the clear/white one that you see in my photo over the head of the screw, correct?

Hi AVIMAX,

You don't need to remove the plastic sleeve or the rubber 'O'ring inside...The screw isn't started correctly...it is cross threaded...back them out and start them at a lower angle. It will help if you have a long bladed screw driver. When I switched over my SC lights it took me several tries to get the angle of the screws correct. They should seat all the way in. My screw driver was practically rubbing on the bumper to get the angle of the screws correct.

It might help if you take off the H4's and start the screws by hand to understand the correct angle...that's what I had to do...it's kind of a PITA install actually. You'd think it should be straight forward.

Hope this helps, Coop

Coop,

I was afraid of that (not correct angle) however it was the only angle at which the screw would start and similar to the angle of the screw holding on the sugar scoops. Anyways, I'll have to give it another shot before I drive anywhere and they go flying off!

Thanks.

Third times a charm! It was as VaSteve said, the threads were dirty. I tried to thread the screw in without the headlight assy as Coop suggested so I could see what was going on, and the screw stopped after about 5 turns, both sides, so a little extra torque on the screw driver, and the screws broke through the 22 years of crap in the threads, and now the headlights are on and the screw are seated properly, no problems. Thanks for the help.

Now I need to decide if I like the look of the black rings on a red car or if I should order the trim rings and have them painted. I like the black rings on the more "race looking" cars, especially in green and blue, but I think they may look a little out of place on my car. I'll wait a little and see if they grow on me.

Thanks again.

On my set of h4's the bottom screw was difficult to get in and felt over sized. I kind of forced it but do not recommend it.

Antone know where you can get the screws, new?

our host I believe
part # 911-631-033-00-M260

The screw anchor tab in the headlight bucket is somewhat notorious for stripping. The solution is to re-tap with a larger screw size. M6 coarse thread is the way to go.

I had to bend my tab to change the angle (slightly) that worked and let the screw go in at the correct angle.

It's not the size of the screw - it's what you do with it that counts...

Good point. And be gentle. She doesn't like hard screwing.

I have a pair of new, never used H4 screws to trade. Just have to figure out what I need in return, besides an orange bar crest (j/k).

Just did this and I was having trouble getting the top of the ring to seat tight and stay on after I screwed in the retaining screw. The top would keep pulling away and I could see daylight into my H4 from above. My new seal seemed to be too fat and sturdy.
I finally got one good now but is there a trick to getting the top of the ring to seal tight and stay without the risk of having the top come loose and take on water at 70 mph?

Also, the sealed beam assembly had 4 retaining screws inside and my new Bosch H4s have nothing, only adjustment rods and the outside ring retaining screw. Scary.

So much for a ten minute job.
OBTW, removing the black sleeve helps a lot.

Duh. Opened the other side which just had a new sealed beam done by a shop, The seal was upside down on the one I started with..(of course). No wonder the rim did not seat tight. The ridges on the seal go to the front of the car. This should help.

Proby mistakes. Gotta luv it.