Rear Bushing Replacemnt: Any Developments???
 

I have done the search and have read the long debate on the different types of bushings and the difficulties of replacing them, but have not heard (or read) if there were any conclusions.

So can I buy rubber replacements like the factory bushings? Are they difficult to replace?

Do the polygraphite squeak that much and not last?

What's a man and his car supposed to do?

Just looking for the lastest info as all of my cars bushings should be replaced.
Thanks, J.

I've been really happy with the Neatrix bushings. They are rubber, similar to the factory bushings, but I think they are a harder compound. Some say that they wear out quickly, but I've been driving on them for 5 years with no issues. Installation of any spring plate bushing will require removal of the factory bushings which are vulcanized to the plates. The easiest removal method involves a torch to burn them off.

I just had all the bushings replaced in my car with the Elephant Racing PolyBronze bushings and I don't get any squeaks. The only thing is you're supposed to regrease them every 3k miles.

ER is the best sport set up and requires some maintenance.

I have the Neatrix. They were not difficult to install but I would try to get the arm angle right using the angle calculator, the first time. It is not fun compressing the rubber in and getting the arm on and then have to remove it and do it again. Using the calculator mine were perfect the first try. I used the outer plate to pull the arms in with the inner rubber bushings first, then added the outer rubber and used longer bolts to pull the outer retaining plate into place.

It used to be they included supper glue to stick the smaller inside surface back onto the arm similar to how the factory did it.

If I were to do it a again I would glue them.

If I go over large bumps like a speed bump or drive entrance I can then hear a bit of a squeak. Not so with most diving, just with extreme suspension movement. This tells me there is a potential for friction and possable ware of the rubber bushings. Gluing them will make them just twist and not allow any movement or friction.

This is just my un-expert opinion.

The ER polybronze bushings cured my incessant squeaking. Must give a squirt of grease to zerks every now & then. Very '50's, but effective. I like them for the street, never been to the track in the P-car.

Neatrix for the street, Polybronze for DE/track. That said, I have Neatrix on my race car because I bought them before Polybronze was around (I didn't want a plastic bushing at the time). My Neatrix are running strong but to be honest with you they only have about 5k miles on them.

I have netrix on my spring plates and they squeak I don't like them the Er ones seem crazy expensive. I wish I could get rubber like the factory but pretty unlikely.

Have you been driving your car? Still got my timing light?

there is a place near here (Performance Art) they will install some sort of "combo" bushing - a soft rubber on one place and a harder rubber on the other - a zirk fitting is installed. I haven't heard or read of anyone with this and how it worked out. The mechanic that does this is well respected in the 911 alignment world in these parts. I still don't know what I'm going to do.. I have a feeling if I start it will end up being some sort of slippery slope to $5k.

I installed neatrix bushings about 5k miles ago and couldn't be happier. I didn't use any adhesives, and I haven't got one squeek (knock on wood). At the same time, I also changed out the inner "banana arm" bushings with OEM replacements, which I recommend doing. And I agree, a torch is the best way to remove the spring plate bushings, but don't put the flame directly on the rubber, instead, make a slit in them, then heat the tube from the inside, and they peel right off.

Elephant recently added this: http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/rubberbushings/911rubberbushings.htm

Bushings
 

Thanks for the info... but still not sure which road to take.

mb911, no I have not been driving the car. The car sways too much under load and makes it tough to control at times. (yes I still have your timing light.)

I have the cap right here you just never made it down here