Advice needed on repaint of 930

turbo3six · 10-09-2008, 06:13 AM

Sikkens? Glasurit? or PPG Global?

Re: 1979 Porsche 930

My paint & body guy was set to do a complete strip to metal, glass out repaint of my 930 with Sikkens Autobase system until it was learned that Sikkens does not have a formula for 304-9-3 Minerva Blue.
Sikkens offered to create a formula based on photos of the paint.
This doesn't impress me as being a very accurate method...?

He has found a formula listed with PPG Global for 304 with no mention of the other two digits 9-3, which I assume represent variances of 304(?).
Will PPG represent an original looking paint? Would Glasurit be better?
What considerations should be made between these paint systems? (Assuming Glasurit has a formula for this code).
__________________

md993 · 10-09-2008, 11:35 AM

Each company has their own system for paint. They usually have multiple systems such as lacquer, enamel, polyurethane, epoxy. The look of the paint is most affected by the skill of the person applying and finishing it. The modern two stage systems can give you a lot higher more durable gloss with the clear coat. Are you after orginal look? Do you want an ultra deep show car finish with high gloss? Talk to your painter about your goals for the paint job and they should be able to recomend a good paint.

trconway · 10-09-2008, 11:43 AM

If I may ask, what does this type of paint job costing? Ball park.....

Thanks

Tom

crustychief · crustychief's Garage

Minerva blue is a great color! Can't wait to see the pics.

WERK I · WERK I's Garage

Most high quality shops that either do touch-up or repaints will do something akin to spectrum analysis of the current paint on the car. They then formulate the paint that is going on the car. I had a shop redo my front spoiler after an incident with a family of raccoons. The results were spectacular. If you are repainting the entire car, clear coat is nice if the result is a look of the factory pigment. BIG IF...

crustychief · crustychief's Garage

BTW the factory touch up says "minervablau POR304" on the bottle

tcar · 10-09-2008, 11:51 AM

304 is the paint code.

The 9 and the 3 have nothing to do with the color itself.

bourgeois911 · 10-09-2008, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trconway

If I may ask, what does this type of paint job costing? Ball park.....

Thanks

Tom

Got a glass out, chemical strip, no body work quote last week; 7.5 to 8k and I supply all new rubber and glass seals and unbolt all body panels. I also got a quote for 4k that kind of scares me.

RoninLB · 10-09-2008, 12:42 PM

I only use Imron clear.

turbo3six · 10-09-2008, 12:49 PM

Thanks the replies...

"what does this type of paint job costing? Ball park....."

$12-$15K... (most of the original rubber seals etc. are in excellent supple condition and will not be replaced.) I did have a quote from the local 'Porsche authorized shop' for $18K. Note: the car needs NO body work or rust repair, NONE.

"Most high quality shops that either do touch-up or repaints will do something akin to spectrum analysis of the current paint on the car. They then formulate the paint that is going on the car."

I understand the need for spectrum analysis...but my understanding is that this technique is used to tint a known formula in order to match paint that has been on the car for awhile and has faded from age and UV exposure. Results are not very accurate unless the formula mixture with metal-flake size and content are known.

"The 9 and the 3 have nothing to do with the color itself."

Curious...why are they on the paint code tag of the car?

Hetmann · 10-09-2008, 01:08 PM

I got my repaint done with sikkens base/clear about 4 years ago and it has held up very well.

ZLP · ZLP's Garage

Mine was done with PPG sealer and paint. I am very happy how it turned out. $15k seems to be the going rate for a top notch shop to do it right these days.

RoninLB · 10-09-2008, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hetmann

I got my repaint done with sikkens base/clear about 4 years ago and it has held up very well.

best of luck with the shoot.

My 20 year german paintjob clear slowly and steadily lifts from the new then paint. Kinda bubbled off. Like every year it needed a compounding. It still looks good 20 years later but it's crap.

I'm into using urethanes, not acrylic-urethanes, as much as possible. I just tricked out a C2 rear spoiler. I don't care who makes it.
It looks too good.

I posted some pics today on the auto body site. It's definitely on page 1.

Az911 · 10-09-2008, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bourgeois911

Got a glass out, chemical strip, no body work quote last week; 7.5 to 8k and I supply all new rubber and glass seals and unbolt all body panels. I also got a quote for 4k that kind of scares me.

Labor rates in Ohio must be dirt cheap for the shop to be able to quote you such low prices. I think anywhere from mid to high teens is a fair price for a high end paint job.

tcar · 10-09-2008, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo3six

"The 9 and the 3 have nothing to do with the color itself."

Curious...why are they on the paint code tag of the car?

I may be misremembering this, but, I think they have to do with:
a. Paint manufactuer (brand) and
b. where the car was painted (which shop).

Don't know if this is quite correct, or what order a and b are in.