Weak Link Fails to Move Me!
 

I have an 87 911 with 8 way power drivers seat. Yesterday, and for the second time, I found my that my plastic, electric seat adjustment button had broken off right where it necks down. What a weak crappy design on a part that:
1. Costs so much :eek:
2. Is a PITA to swap out; unless you go through the PITA of removing the seat:mad:

Does anyone have a fix for this, or a way to avoid the breakage? (other than not using the switch)

Heck, even not using the switch will not prevent the crappy little plastic switch from breaking at its neck down point via vibration fatigue... After you set your seat position, how often do you change it? Not much in my car, as I am the only driver.
Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated :confused:

Bump... With photo's of the offending part...
I filed off the 1/8" protruding nub from both the back of the button and protruding from the switch.
Any recommendations from anyone who has "fixed" one of these #*(@!!#@ switches ?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224549019.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224549035.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224549060.jpg

Same thing happened to me. It's on the passenger's side so I have yet to do anything about it.

Can you switch it out with the passenger side switch for awhile during the repair process?

I had a similar seat switch to this break on a Toyota, and what I did to fix it was file down the nub like you did, then took a tiny drill bit and drilled a small hole in the part still attached to the seat, and on the other side the back side of the switch, but stopping before going all the way through the plastic.

I then bought a very small threaded machine screw and cut the head off of it and then epoxied it with West Systems epoxy to the outer part of the switch. A day or two later I put more epoxy on the hole on the seat side and glued/screwed the switch face onto the seat.

It has helped up well for a few years now and beat paying the dealership $250 for a new seat motor assembly. Its worth a shot to at least consider this type of repair.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the suggestion mtbguy!
Passenger side is manual:rolleyes:
My thoughts are along the same lines as yours, except...
I am drilling a .125" through hole throught the button, with a much smaller .031" pilot hole into, but not through the switch. I will then attach the button with a small spacer (washer) as a standoff from the switch assy, with another washer under the head of a small metal screw to help distribute loads/pressure more evenly.
I will post a photo if I am successful in this endevor.
As a caveot, if successful I may do the other button by simply reinforcing the button with another small metal screw and washer under the screw head.
Let's see how the first one goes first...

Same thing happened to me. I opted to go with a super cheap approach, being Super Glue. With careful attentiveness, it worked. Has held up for about one year now. I know that it's "short-lived",..but was amazed at the (functional) results,...works perfectly...


Best,

Doyle

Actually, I had a bit of the shaft inplace to work with,..a bit different than the flushness of your break...

Doyle

Thanks Doyle...I too had a bit of a nubbin to work with, but found it more of a hinderence than help during my attempted repair, so I filed it flush. I have never had any such luck with superglue.
While my repair did work, the electric actuation of the seat only worked in two of the four directions. Final fix is a used switch provided by Parts Heaven in Norcal for $50 shipped.