Left Side Heater Block Off- DIY (No Can-No Clamp)
 

Really got tired of the can and clamp. Thread inspired by Tom :D.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567565.jpg

Removed assembly, actually I did not have to pull the distributer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567665.jpg

30 Year old plastic ....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567679.jpg

I used tin foil to form a basic shape;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567689.jpg

Flattened the foil back out and used as a template on a sheet of thin alu from the hardware store;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567698.jpg

Cut out the shape;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567713.jpg

Shaped the alu and marked holes, made cuts and shaped;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567752.jpg

Sanded the edges and fine tuned.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567774.jpg

Painted and mounted;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224567790.jpg

Im happy. $13.67 and 3 beers.

Let me the first to say...GOOD JOB!!! that looks very good! and to think they charge something like $80 bucks for one of those panels....

Nice job!

Nice. Did you bend the alu by hand, w/ pliers, over wood blocks or what?

Very nice work!

How do you get any air flow through the heat exchangers when you do it like that (or do you have headers or does it not matter?). When I did the left side I ran the left side hose down to the left side heat exchanger, but have no flow through the right (passenger) side, and it does not run hot at all.

Excellent Job! and that gives me an idea to be able to use the Aluminium form to make a mold for me to fiberglass... (I am a fiberglassing fool)

Yep, a roll of the aluminum, roof valley metal and a can of PVA, you could go nuts making molds. Tony.

Got mine for $40. No "DIY" gratification, but no hassle either:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-911-LEFT-SIDE-BLOCK-OFF-FOR-ENGINE-SHROUD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q 3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286 Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem150304035833QQitemZ150304035 833

Thanks for all the comments!

Paul, I bent it by hand to get the basic shape and then used small wood blocks and a hammer to get the exact shape and yes I used pliers too, the aluminum was pretty easy to bend by hand.

If you are thinking of doing this it's really not that hard, but buy enough back up aluminum, the first one I made was just about perfect and then I bent it flat again and it split so I used it as a template for the final one.

JBO, No flow to the exchangers, to do that you would need to back date to the older style left and right side covers that route the heat to the exchangers.

Damn! I had only seen those for 80$ + before. Looks like a good buy. But I would have missed out on the scrapes and cuts associated with the experience.

How is the fit?

Is the part small enough to trace to a piece of paper so we can all benefit from your hard work. Sounds like you have a nice template. I was just looking to order but I have the aluminum so will have to try.

thx for a great thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

snbush67,

I see you have MSD wires. Do you have a part number for that set? Have you had any problem w/ the fit? I had a set because I got an MSD CDI but the plug ends were so difficult to fit I swapped in an unused set of Fyrebraids I had lying around which have Beru ends. The fit is much better.

Paul,

You actually referred these to me some time back. I have a thread detailing the entire process and part numbers.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/398337-msd-wire-install.html

I actually saw this same set for sale in a "Checkers" (automotive store) for $ 79.00the other day.

The plug ends are very hard to line up, but I have acquired the finesse needed, sometimes if I am really bored I go out and pull the plug wires off just to see how long it takes to get them back on, it gives me a good reason to drink a few bears and cuss in private.

Aloha, Shane

I thought of doing this, but once I had it as a perfect fit I did not want to flatten it again to trace a template. This weekend I can trace the old one and post it as a photo with a grid for printing reference, it will be PDC (Pretty Damn Close) but not perfect.

SmileWavy

Template
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224836556.jpg

I would recommend you use an editing program to get this to scale and then turn the brightness up on your computer monitor and trace it onto paper.

It wouldn't hurt to add 1/4" to the edges just to be safe, you could trim it after final fit.

Use the gray arrows for scale.

The bottom tab is about 1 and 1/2 " its not really needed.

The bend at line A should be angled slightly it is not straight up and down.

Aloha to all.

Whow.
Great idea. I will try doing the same...
Thank you!

Thanks for the template it looks great. However I just dove in last night and made one myself. Kind of the same process made one then traced and made another. It didn't come out too bad. One thing I did do was roll all the edges to prevent cuts. Also instead of makeing the bolt hole bracket at the bottom I simply extended the bottom it now sits between the cam chain housing and the cylinder. No need for the bottom bolt. I had some trouble with the top getting to curve. It eventually split forming one of your red lines. I cut a piece of 3/4" X 1/16" aluminum strap to follow the top curve and reinforce it. I will try a picture later my picture taking abilities are sub standard to say the least. For reference mine in for a 1984 3.2

Super!

snbush,

I remember now. I think you are smarter than the mech I was using to install the MSD CD and wires. He didn't use the HDI caps as extenders and so the connectors were really too short, and I never saw the set in the box. This wasn't a problem for him since he had the valve covers off when installing, but for me doing a plug check they weren't too good. If you saw my WUR thread, you would have noticed that I had 2 other mechs check out my WUR because I didn't trust the findings I was getting, and both these guys, w/ a combined experience of about 80 yrs, had problems w/ the short ends.

I'm glad they worked out for you. I wouldn't want to direct someone to a product I couldn't vouch for. Using the plug hole covers from a previous set was a great idea.

Actually, you guys can get these for free from racers who have tons of them, after they have taken off their metal pre-1974 block-offs and substituted with fiberglass or carbon fiber ones.

I got both the left and the right ones for free from one such individual.

Dfink,

Great idea!!! Glad it worked out for you. :)

Paul,

The MSD wire ends are a pain to get on still, even with the HDI extensions I used, I ended up not using the boot-covers and have not experienced any debris or water in the holes. The first time I put the wires on I spent about two hours getting them right. The problem is the lack of stiffness in the boots, if they were stiffer or reinforced with the plastic tubes they would be excellent. I can empathize with your mechanics. :cool:

Sorry to have caused you so much aggravation. I had no idea.

LOL... I love the MSD wires and the whole set up, I could have simply used the ends from my "Clewetts" which I still may do, but I wanted to give the MSD ends a chance. Sincerely, thanks for the recommendation....:)

Nice job Shane! Thanks for the mention:D
I'm hoping to have some color on my car by Jan. The bodywork is looking good if I do say so myself:cool:

I don't know if I can bring myself to cut the front of the tub yet for the oil cooler though:eek:

Fun with Aluminum Part Zwei
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1226733656.jpg

I still have some touch ups, I have to smooth the edges and am considering painting it either silver, black or red.

It looks much better in person for some reason the photo makes it look skewed and unsymmetrical.

The left and right sides are open, it really does change the sound....weird.SmileWavy