Hot start kit

[kodioneill]

Has anyone installed the Hot Start Kit that our host sells that bypasses the ignition switch for the starter?

[spuggy]

Some have, and some find a remote start in the engine bay useful. I chose to fix my starting problems instead. It was a lot easier once they went beyond "once every 8,000 miles it won't crank".

One battery & tranny ground strap, electrical portion of ignition switch and a hi-torq starter later, it turned out to be either the bulkhead connector for the ignition switch or the 14 pin plug in the engine bay. They needed cleaning and the pins spreading slightly. Two years/20,000 miles later, no issues.

That's got to be 99% of all 911 "no crank on the key" problems right there.

Simple connectivity from the switch terminal to the solenoid isn't enough; too much voltage drop means the solenoid won't engage (might not even click, sometimes).

When my battery terminal clamp bolt self-destructed recently, that terminal couldn't pass enough current. The solenoid would engage, drop out again before the motor turned over and repeat - a series of very fast clicks.

I thought the battery had finally died (it's at least 5 years old, maybe much older) until I went to remove it and the clamp bolt fell into two pieces with 1/4 turn of the wrench...

[RoninLB]

I have the engine compartment momentary sw and it works great. Cole-Hersy waterproof marine about $20

I also ran some wiring from engine to dash for added gauges etc and also ran some yellow 8ga from the starter... that still hasn't been wired to the ignition switch. WTF, how bad can 8ga from solenoid to switch be?

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

Has anyone installed the Hot Start Kit that our host sells that bypasses the ignition switch for the starter?

DIY instructions in link below. It's just a regular Bosch-type relay in place of the ignition switch start position. If you have hot start symptoms, there's probably an issue with the starter motor. BTW, while the procedure is for a long hood, the circuit is the same.

Sherwood
Remote Starter

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

Has anyone installed the Hot Start Kit that our host sells that bypasses the ignition switch for the starter?

The kit doesn't bypass the starter but reduces the load put on the ignition switch.
Instead of energizing the Solenoid, the ignition switch energizes the relay which then energizes the Solenoid. The relay is wired so it uses current straight from the battery/alternator connection on the Solenoid.

The kit helps when the yellow wire, or the ignition switch itself, gets tired. I also like this idea about preventing EMF-arcing in the ignition switch listed in the Tech Section on Starter Help:

I have had good results opening the starter switch and just cleaning and lubing the contacts in the switch, but a permanent fix for this problem is to add a rectifier diode to the switch or the solenoid to shunt the pulse and stop the arcing. -Use a 1N4003 or 4. . Radio Shack etc. CONNECT THE DIODE WITH THE BANDED (CATHODE) END TO THE ‘HOT’ (KEY SWITCH) SIDE OF THE SOLENOID. CONNECT THE ANODE SIDE TO GROUND. Slip the cathode lead securely under the starter’s spade lug and attach an alligator clip to the anode lead and clip it to chassis. 12" or so wire leads for this would be ok. Be sure to have a good ground connection. Kyle.

[RoninLB]

Warren pos6ted a few times that the starter needs perodic maintence

i read one theory that the piston enlarges from heat and creates more friction

[Gunter]

Periodic maintenance doesn't hurt.

The Solenoid-piston (Plunger) does indeed expand with excessive heat and gets stuck until it cools off.

A lot of people including myself have experienced this especially in hot climates and during summer. I removed the Starter and gave it TLC like cleaning and oiling; so far, so good.

[RoninLB]

I did the same maintenance routine with silicone grease.. it still seized

I asked about cutting a few thou off the inside of the cylinder. The starter/alternator rebuilder said he could do if but I never followed through.

next time I'll look for a thinner than Redline grease

right now my thinking is that the added amp load from a hot start is more than can be delivered by the old stock yellow solenoid wire.. ie: my over the top 8ga yellow

fwiw.. I use 75 amp relays instead of cubes for various stuff. They cost around $20

[911pcars]

".....right now my thinking is that the added amp load from a hot start is more than can be delivered by the old stock yellow solenoid wire.. ie: my over the top 8ga yellow

fwiw.. I use 75 amp relays instead of cubes for various stuff. They cost around $20......"

Not sure why you need such HD relays just to energize the solenoid other than for overkill. The relay power circuit to energize the solenoid shouldn't take much more than 10a, thus 8 ga. conductor and a 25A-rated relay is more than enough, and the control circuit (external switch) to energize the relay requires much less current.

Perhaps I'm misinterpreting your comment, but using HD relays to switch battery current to the starter motor is merely introducing another set of contacts into the normally continuous and uninterrupted current path from battery>starter and not shortening the current path as these are designed to do.

Sherwood

[RoninLB]

I'm not using overkill 75amp or any relay for the solenoid