Things to do while engine is out
 

There was a thread on this topic posted earlier this year, but after an hour of searching I have not found it.

I am planning an engine drop on my 1979 911 SC, the car has close to 300k miles on it and is tracked. While in there, I plan to do the following:

- Clutch
- Valve adjustment
- Check for vacuum leaks (which I know there are plenty of)
- Change worn cams (probably)

The car runs poorly (seems like it's on 5 cylinders while at low engine speeds - ignition appears to be working fine though), so I am hoping that between the air leaks and the cam/valve adjustment I might solve the problem. To be diligent, what else does everyone advise I should do while the engine is out?

Thank you.

hundreds of posts on this if you search

Check for oil leaks at the oil breather, pressure sender...I assume the motor was already rebuilt once, otherwise pressure fed tensioners and steel exhaust studs might be wise to install. If never rebuilt, then the list may be a lot longer...

Aurel

Nope, never rebuilt, but it does have the chain tensioners

Here's my suggestions - adding to your list which might prove pretty involved after you sort out the "run poorly" issue:

1. Replace sound pad in the bay
2. Replace flexible fuel lines
3. If it likes like a vacuum line, or a hose that has vacuum, replace it!
4. Unwrap the wiring harness. Repair worn spots, clean ground surfaces,
replace brittle connectors. Re-wrap harness


angela

Buy a 3.6 and stuff it in there.

Here's a start...
Clean/ repaint the engine compartment,
Replace the rubber perimeter seal if burnt (mine)
Replace critical fuel hoses with new
Re-cover the engine wiring harness (did mine with heat shrink )
Clean and repaint the fan shroud (don't use paint remover)
Repaint engine tin and renew fasteners
If you have CIS consider replacing the Phenolic tubes/o-rings in the intake runners (did that on my second engine drop)
Polish the fan
Change studs where the air pump mounted.
Oil return tube fix
Clean, JB weld and Aluminum tape the slots behind and near the oil cooler on the engine case
Clean the transmission and engine.
replace the shifter seal, transmission seals
CV joint boot replacement/repack
NEW CV JOINT BOLTS WITH SCHNORR WASHERS (I can't remember when to check torque after install)
Clean the 8 pin connector
replace the sound pad or leave it off to show off your painted engine compartment
Powdercoat the valve covers and true them up.
Repaint the AC mount
straighten fins on the AC evaporator (or is it condenser)
Or remove the AC

Wow, the list is getting quite long. Thank you for your inputs.

Due to the not so great condition of the car, I am less interested in the cosmetic chores than the functional ones.

to do
 

one more thing i didnt see was rear main seal. mine wasnt leaking when i had it out, but soon started after i put it back in

Start with a leak down and compression check to get an idea of the condition of the engine. How much oil does it use? Need some basic info on the condition. Vacuum and oil leaks are a must.

If you are as dumb as I am, you can:

1) Get the LSD that has been on the shelf installed in the tranny.
2) Complete suspension upgrade (alum banana arms, 935 spring plates, coil overs).
2.1) Reinforce the rear suspension mounts for above changes..
3) Hargett shifter.
4) New Alum race seat that needs custom mounts.
5) Fancy new gas pedal.
6) New front bumper and rear tail to get more down force.
7) new rear brakes and lines, as old ones won't mount on alum railing arms.
8) I have a fiberglass hood and doors, but don't plan to install this time, they need paint

Forgot to mention the reason I pulled the motor in the first place. Replace a broken pressure plate, put in a lightened fly wheel, and fresh clutch disc.

I would not recommend this for anyone that actually wants to DRIVE their car as opposed to working on it as time permits the past two years. :rolleyes:

HA HA John - with you there brother - just replaced my exhaust to 993 flipped flanges - I've been collecting parts for two years!

replace leak prone oil idiot light switch at flywheel passenger top of engine.

install a Cole-Hersee marine 20 amp momentary button switch for starter solenoid jump in engine compartment.

Sounds like a need for a complete rebuild to me. :)
With 300k Miles, seriously consider a valve-job and re-ring the pistons plus new bearings for the crank and I-shaft.
Replace the exhaust row of head studs with steel ones. (Some people do all)
Regrind the cams to 964-profile.
New chain sprockets on the I-shaft plus new chains and ramps.

Had to add something to my post, forgot to say why I pulled the motor in the first place.

Change the oil thermostat o-ring. Change the vacuum hose that runs up through that beefy arch at the bottom of the firewall. John Walker is finding problems with those.

Get a 3.6L engine and stuff it in there. Sell your 3L. This way you avoid rebuild costs and gain eighty+ horsepower.