2.4T Engine is running hot, any suggestions?
 

When it is 70degrees or cooler I have no problems the temp guage is at 180.

When it is above 75, or 80 and I start driving more agressively the car heats up to 220, or 230. A few weekends ago I was driving over a mountain pass pretty hard and the temp gauge touched 250 for a minute. I slowed way down, but it left me a little concerned.

Thoughts?
Bad thermostat?
Junk on top of oil cooler?

Help.

thanks,
Ian

I am having this same problem on my 2.4. I noticed it ran slightly cooler when I had the ducktail on it but it was still a little to hot. Would removing the engine tin make any differance? I plan to add a cooler as soon as my house is done and I have some downtime, but that wont be until winter and I cannot see not driving the car.

Tom
71T 2.4

You could try cleaning out your oil cooler. Carb cleaner or brake cleaner works pretty well.

Also if you haven't done so already, make sure your timing and other tune-up settings are normal.

use a fan from a 77, along with it's pulley. use an SC crank pulley. it's 93mm if i remember right. the smaller upper and larger lower pulleys spin the fan faster. good for 20° sometimes.

First thing is to block off your cooling air outlets (for heater) to the heat exchangers!

Rather doubtful that it is the thermostat stuck, that would cause big-time overheating, not marginal, but I suppose a partly stuck one could be possible! Debris on top of cylinders/heads seems a logical possibility. You can get at the tops of the cylinders and 'sort of' at the heads (#1 and #4, anyway) by removing the fan/alternator/housing assembly and rear vertical sheetmetal/tin pieces. Use a ShopVac, rather than trying to blow out with compressed air.

Weak springs for the oil system relief/bypass pistons are an easy thing to check, after you find the correct bit to remove the plugs ... approx. 1/8" x 1" slotted screwdriver (sometimes called Drag-Link bit) 1/2" drive bit. Be SURE THAT THE BIT IS A TIGHT FIT IN THE PLUG! File/grind to fit plug ... much better to buy oversize and file, than try a bit that is too small! The springs are supposed to be 70 mm long. The spring part number is 901.107.531.00.

One final thing to check is for a damaged/crushed or restricted hard scavenge line that runs under the transaxle.
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 05-30-2001).]

My 2.4T is running at 80-85 celsius, don't know what that is in F. Sounds normal?

I think 85 celsius ( 185 F ), is good.
I had an over heating problem in my car a year ago. At any traffic it would go up to 110-120 celsius ( 230-250 F ). So I sent the car car to have a complete paint job, and when the car was apart I noticed that my oil tank was completely covered with oil and dust ( 5mm thick ). Cleaned it up and since then it hardly reaches 100 C ( 212F ).
So I deducted that the oil tank has an important job in cooling the oil too.

I think 85 celsius ( 185 F ), is good.
I had an over heating problem in my car a year ago. At any traffic it would go up to 110-120 celsius ( 230-250 F ). So I sent the car car to have a complete paint job, and when the car was apart I noticed that my oil tank was completely covered with oil and dust ( 5mm thick ). Cleaned it up and since then it hardly reaches 100 C ( 212F ).
So I deducted that the oil tank has an important job in cooling the oil too.

I have a 72 with the oil tank in front of the rear right wheel.

My tank is also covered with oil, dirt and debris could this really be part of my heat problem?

Ian,

When dealing with a 29.5+ year old car and marginal oil temps on an engine that shouldn't be overheating, I have the feeling that it is a case of multiple problems, all contributing to some degree. So, if it is feasible to pull the tank, and get it cleaned ... inside and out, do so!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa