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haycait911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: BC, Canada.
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glad to see you use a proper panel-bond. using fiberglass mat or kitty-hair is a sure road to de-lamination.

Old 12-14-2008, 12:57 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euro911sc View Post

$800 is what I could have paid for this to be done for me.

I'll be using epoxy/filler at the metal/FG area as I do not want any cracking and flaking.

how it will hold up with the thermal expansion between FG and metal being different. I guess we'll see

for $800 I'd figure out how to make it perfect one way or another.
Although I'm not in on the best products out there I would have looked what the shop guys use to bond glass fenders to a metal tub.

I also figure that there has to be a difference in thermal expansion. Epoxy is forever flowing glue and polyester is stiff. That's why I like Imron paint. It's epoxy and stays flexable.

I think if you have confidence in the lid to not come apart you could go on to figuring how to paint it. I just painted a C2/964 electric spoiler lid. The raised wing is surrounded with a flexable ring.

If me I'd prime using Imron paint on bare glass and primed metal. The Imron base coat would be shot with Dupont color Chromobase as thin as possible, and cleared with Imron. You could also put on the Imron base with a sponge brush and then sand it perfect.
It's only what I do.
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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The 3m panel adhesive has a life time warranty that incluces the cost to repair and loss of use. A good friend is a body man and uses it. He is a big fan.
Ben
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:48 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Stuart, FL
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Part 3: I luv sanding! No really!

Well ladies and gents I have made progress over the x-mass break! So ... last we saw our errant adventurer had just bonded the FG section to the metal lid section...

There were several places where the FG section fell short of the metal. I applied more 3M panel bonding agent to build up these areas to where I could use a light coat of body filler.

I used 40 grit to rough it up prior to applying the goop:


Goop:



Finished. The goop will dry with a slight concave depression so some filler will need to be applied to get a nice surface. Note the masking... you do not want to get this crap on your car!



I also filled some of the areas that I missed on the edges or where the bonding agent had shrunk in. Most of it will be sanded off later...

Let sit for a day or two Have a beer ... open some presents ... eat some holiday feast food and lament how every pound you put on makes you slower

I'm using a 5" random orbit sander with 80 grit paper to do a lot of the gross grinding. It certainly is not the fastest, but having little expertise in this area I would rather take it off in smaller bits to avoid taking too much off.

My biggest issue will be the leading edge nearest the rear glass. This is where I think the whole assy. will show that it is actually two parts glued together. My objective is to sand it down to a thin edge w/o loosing the structural integrity of the leading edge. Right now I have it at about 1/4" or so. I'm into the FG at this level. Looks like 1/16th of panel bond and the rest is FG:



It thickens at the corners so I started using 40 grit on a 6" hand block to take the area from the edge to about 6" in down more than the rest. I could not use the orbital on this area due to the complex curves.

I also had a problem on the old wing where the area where the wing meets lid would rub the body. I have a few bare metal spots on the body because of this. So for this new part I have sanded in some cut backs to avoid this in the future. Passenger side went well. Drivers side broke through which was expected. I will be fill this area with some more panel bond and using masking tape to cover the hole. This will prevent the panel bond from escaping as it is quite fluid when just mixed. With luck I'll have a nice puddle of it on the interior that I sand down to make the right sized cut back.





Looks a lot worse than it actually is!

next post....
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'82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah
'13 Cayenne GTS
Old 12-29-2008, 06:24 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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I have shaped the trailing edge to a point where I think I'm ready to start straightening it with some 100 or 220 ... or so. It is pretty thick here and I'm not sure how far I can take it down, but as long as the edge is straight I do not have to worry too much as there is not another edge to compare it to to see it is actually thicker than normal.



So next step is fill the hole and continue shaping... then prep the whole thing for some paint. My neighbor is going to shoot it for me for the cost of materials Nice neighbor

That's where I am at and I'm planning on doing some more on New Years Day

Enjoy your holiday!

Best regards,

Michael
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Michael
'82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah
'13 Cayenne GTS
Old 12-29-2008, 06:27 PM
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Less brakes, more gas!
 
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Next Stages

So on to the rest of the story. I needed to grind down the leading edge from over 1/4" + the metal deck down to meet the trailing edge of the body. This was a lot of grinding with my palm sander. I angled it so the leading edge was thin and the other side was a little thicker to maintain the structural integrity. I am not worried about it as the whole thing is panel bonded to the metal. The leading edge is about 1/8" thick total (metal + FG lid) so it is nice and thin. Here you can kinda see that the final results are a top edge that meets the body very well.





Back end was sanded down on an arc at the edges and blends in nicely, however it is not totally flat at the body line. If you use your hand you can tell that the lid is thicker and arches up from the body line. I do not think I can achieve a perfect line with out breaking through the FG and blowing the whole project. I am very happy with it as it stands here so I'll stop the gross shaping and start filling holes and low spots.



I used a syringe to push panel bond up in the hole I had created when I sanded down a cut out on the driver side. The stuff is pretty liquid so I put a piece of blue painter's tape over the hole to keep all the panel bond in the hole while it dried. The tap will sand right off and it also let me shape the final outcome so I do not have to do a lot of work to finish this area.



Finally, I'll have to:
  • Use lite filler on the leading edge to make it nice and straight with the body line.
  • Use lite filler to flatten out the sides in front of the wing.
  • Use lite filler on the back to flatten that area out.
  • Use epoxy filler to blend the internal joint where the grill seats and then follow it up with the lite filler.
  • finish wet sand the whole thing
  • Prime it
  • Paint it some color ... TBD

Lots of fun left, but I am so pleased with how this is turning out. After I am done, I'll weigh it and then we can compare to an all fG wing. I am sure mine will be heavier, but I do not think it will be significant... I hope.

Best regards,

Michael
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'82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah
'13 Cayenne GTS
Old 01-12-2009, 04:21 PM
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9 year bump

Hey Michael, did you finish this project? Mighty curious. Would love to see any finished pics with paint etc.

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Old 01-14-2018, 02:12 PM
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