metal prep for painting

[RWebb]

No, not the kind of painting that you look at. I'm smart enuff to know that absolutely zero artistic aptitude means do not paint the exterior yourself...

I am wondering if brake cleaner is a suitable prep for the sheet metal before I put a "rust-proof" primer (Rustoleum) on it with a Q-tip. This is for some holes I drilled behind the taillight housings for bolts to the FG fender.

Sure, brake cleaner is a non-polar solvent, but...

does it leave anything behind??

[dipso]

Use a wire bottle brush.

[Mitch Leland]

Randy,

I would think Brake Cleaner must be about the same as Carbon Tet so that can't be all bad... Plus Rustoleum will stick to about anything anyway. Acetone, soap and water rinsed well always works. Actually Metal Prep if it isn't washed off (neutralized) properly can leave an acid under the paint which can cause blistering later on.

[RWebb]

thanks - I'll just for it then (once I get the can of paint warmed up...)

[Zeke]

Randy, you're the scientist and I'm not, but for some reason I am skeptical of anything that is not in the family of "paint solvents." I have had strange things happen when I didn't follow the paint label's explicit instructions. Most of the time this manifests as "fisheyes." Getting the parts hot and then cooling before painting seems to excise bad stuff lingering in the metal pores.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by RWebb

No, not the kind of painting that you look at. I'm smart enuff to know that absolutely zero artistic aptitude means do not paint the exterior yourself...

I am wondering if brake cleaner is a suitable prep for the sheet metal before I put a "rust-proof" primer (Rustoleum) on it with a Q-tip. This is for some holes I drilled behind the taillight housings for bolts to the FG fender.

Sure, brake cleaner is a non-polar solvent, but...

does it leave anything behind??

Id wipe it with lacquer cleaner and then scuff it good with 100 grit sand paper if I were doing it.

[RWebb]

thanks much, milt

- it's like me taking to my doctor -- I know stuff he doesn't, but he knows direct clinical knowledge that I NEED.

It's definitely hot - I put 2 light bulbs by it to warm it up. That should drive off any volatiles.

[RWebb]

calling -- you'd scuff it AFTER the lacquer cleaner?

[dipso]

Here is an advertisement for a bottle brush.
You can buy them at any paint store, Vista, Dunn-Edwards, etc. Probably any hardware store also.

You can get them in nylon, brass or stainless steel.



Our tube cleaning brushes come in carbon steel, stainless steel, or brass. If you need a tube cleaning brush for environments where corrosion cannot be tolerated but stiffness is still required use the Stainless Steel. If less abrasive action is required, use our Brass tube cleaning brushes. All are perfect for cleaning interior surfaces of tubes, internal threads or drilled holes.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by RWebb

calling -- you'd scuff it AFTER the lacquer cleaner?

No sorry.. before..

Actually, now that I know what you are doing.. id just shove a rag with laquer cleaner on it in the hole, twist it around, blow on it and then prime and paint before the primers hardens. Most people do not know that primer is supposed to be dry to the touch not hardened... if it hardens you usually are supposed to either re prime or sand lightly then paint.

All this for a hole.

[RWebb]

huh - I'm one of those people who did not know that. The prime is sitting there since last night with light bulbs above and below it.

I'll scuff it now and top coat it.

"All this for a hole."
- it's a whole lotta trouble for a hole.

But, over the decades I have been diagnosed with "rust paranoia" -- an acquired mental disease.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by RWebb

huh - I'm one of those people who did not know that. The prime is sitting there since last night with light bulbs above and below it.

I'll scuff it now and top coat it.

"All this for a hole."
- it's a whole lotta trouble for a hole.

But, over the decades I have been diagnosed with "rust paranoia" -- an acquired mental disease.

Im from the rust belt originally you do not have to explain.

anyway, good luck with your hole..

[Rot 911]

Damn, I'm a bit late on this. I hope you haven't put the top coat on yet. Rustoleum uses fish oil as a rust preventative and this oil tends to cause oddly enough "fisheyes" when topcoated by lacquer or other automotive paints. Use a quality auto enamel or lacquer primer.

As for prepping go to the auto parts store and buy a can of Prepsol. It is specifically made for removing oil, wax, etc, from metal prior to painting. It will not harm existing paint.

[RWebb]

thanks, but...as per above, this is an area that is not visible

the idea is to avoid buying and storing yet another solvent...

[Porsche_monkey]

Have you considered POR metal prep? That would be my first choice, lacquer thinner and a brush would be next.

[Zeke]

Kurt, I think that used to be about the fish oil. Most likely synthetics today because of the harsh dryers and solvents needed to cure a natural oil.

AFA primer being dry to the touch only, depends on the primer. Some will react, some won't. Epoxy primer is one of those that can't be allowed to cure before painting. Polyester cures fast because it's catalyzed. You can't paint over just dry-to-the-touch poly, that I'm sure of. I use sealer now anyway which needs to be painted within a window of time. Maybe that's what you're thinking of.

[calling911]

Originally Posted by Kurt V

Damn, I'm a bit late on this. I hope you haven't put the top coat on yet. Rustoleum uses fish oil as a rust preventative and this oil tends to cause oddly enough "fisheyes" when topcoated by lacquer or other automotive paints. Use a quality auto enamel or lacquer primer.

As for prepping go to the auto parts store and buy a can of Prepsol. It is specifically made for removing oil, wax, etc, from metal prior to painting. It will not harm existing paint.

I knew there was something fishy about rustoleum. Where did you find this out???
Ive always wondered if rustoleum rusty metal primer actually works.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by calling911

I knew there was something fishy about rustoleum. Where did you find this out???
Ive always wondered if rustoleum rusty metal primer actually works.

Years ago, products like Rustoleum and Olympic stain did have fish oil. The fact that lead manganese and cobalt were used as driers made these products change from their original formula. Fish oil is known to increase elasticity in finishes such as varnish. Many of the processed oils do not smell "fishy" at all.

The term "fish eyes" does not necessarily come from the presence of fish oil. Silicone or any oily substance can cause fish eyes. A contaminated air hose will transfer the pollutants to the surface as tiny dots either when spraying or just blowing the surface clean. The paint will surround to dot making an "eye."

Trust me on some of this stuff. I've been painting since 1960

[Superman]

Before using automotive paint, I clean with that OMNI stuff. It cuts just about everything, including silicon. But it leaves a residue, so my final cleaner is denatured alcohol. If I were going to use metal prep on this, that would be the middle step.

[Rot 911]

Originally Posted by milt

Kurt, I think that used to be about the fish oil. Most likely synthetics today because of the harsh dryers and solvents needed to cure a natural oil.

From the Rustoleum website: "The original and the best, based on Rust-Oleum founder Captain Robert Fergusson's discovery of raw fish oil's ability to stop rust and prevent corrosion on metal ship decks. Unique fish-oil-based formula penetrates rust to bare metal, to drive out corrosive air and moisture other primers leave behind. Bonds tightly to rust to form a surface that topcoats can adhere to. "