The 2.4 to 3.2 swap has begun

[Jeff Burger]

There is a test valve on the driverside fuel rail. make sure you are getting 40 psi in the rail. if so check to make sure your injectors are injecting - carefully pull one of the side rail keeping the injectors fully seated and the clip holding them to the rail in place . Place containers under all three injectors - crank motor a few revolutions. look in containers for fuel. keep fire extinguisher handy. 3.2 injector needle valves have a tendency to stick when sitting unused for a while . you will need to manually excercise the needle valve to unstick it or some times taping them lightly while the are trying to activate can free them.

good luck jeff

[DW SD]

Originally Posted by Kaefer

Do you have the fuel lines hooked up to the engine properly? In other words - not backwards?

Mark,
Can you (barely) crack a fitting on the injector rail? I think there is a test port. If high pressure fuel comes out, you'd confirm that the fuel pump and lines are most likely plumbed properly.

Some end up tapping on the injectors if they are getting signal, have high pressure fuel, but aren't spraying fuel into the engine.

I'd use a rubber or plastic headed mallet if that is the case.

Doug

[DW SD]

just read Jeff's advice above. needless to say, I think we are in synch

Doug

[dmcummins]

Thanks guys, I'll check the fuel injectors tommorow. So I can just pull a fuel rail out, and put containers under the injectors and tell if fuel is flowing through them. I think I'll check for current first, as I don't want to take a chance on breaking something. Hopefully its just some stuck injectors. I'm not sure how long the engine has sat, Ive had it for a couple of years myself.

[Jeff Burger]

If it has been sitting for a couple years I am willing to bet you will need to free up some of the injectors anyhow.

good luck jeff

[zztot]

Someone mentioned tires ....Way to ge t 225 50 15 on rear without flairs is with either very expensive 7R wheel OR Revolutions ...I happen to have a set that were to go on abandoned 914-6 project but the message is you will need the bigger tire.
TOT

[TT Oversteer]

Originally Posted by zztot

Someone mentioned tires ....Way to ge t 225 50 15 on rear without flairs is with either very expensive 7R wheel OR Revolutions ...I happen to have a set that were to go on abandoned 914-6 project but the message is you will need the bigger tire.
TOT

What are "Revolutions"?

[zztot]

Way to go TOT....so you can't undertand my middle of the night shorthand !
Revolution Wheels ( believe english made). The ones I have are 15 X 7 purportedly with same offset as 7R Fuchs. They had been on a naro body 911 with 225 50 15 AX tires with no body mods.
Ciao

[DonDavis]

Originally Posted by Jeff Burger

If it has been sitting for a couple years I am willing to bet you will need to free up some of the injectors anyhow.

good luck jeff

EXACTLY!
Pop off each injector and use a "rounded end" device. Something plastic or wooden as to NOT score the end of the injector. Press firmly until you hear or feel a "click". Do this a few times to each injector and that puppy will bark to life!

Btw, not sure if it was said earlier in this thread but the fuel pump only runs for a brief second when the key is turned to "on". Then it waits for the DME to sense the engine is cranking then it begins running. Conversely, if the engine stop rotating, the DME removes voltage from the fuel pump.

Do yourself a favor and have someone video you the first time you try cranking after you free the injectors! If the only person that ever sees the video is YOU, it'll be worth it. I had the same probs with my 3.2 swap! I was laughing and fist-pumping like a mad-man! Hoot- hoot!!

[dmcummins]

ITS ALIVE!!!!



It's hard to tell from the pic, but its running and idling fine in the pic. I checked the fuel test port and I had fuel seep out. I though it wouldn't hurt to try tapping on the injectors before I tried pulling them out and risking breaking something. At first it was just hitting on a couple of cylinders, but I continued to tap on the injectors and it finally started and smoothed right out.

I cant thank everyone enough. I would have sent the dme off or assumed the wiring was wrong, and all I needed to do was tap on the injectors.

Now I have to clean everything up, from the ground to the fuel pump, to the kitty litter on the floor from the oil leak.

One other thing that I have to figure out is the accelerator rod is too short. I need about a 1/2" to reach the ball. I'm hopping there is enough adjustment in the threaded rod to take care of this.

Again, thanks everyone who helped.

[dmcummins]

As far as tires go, I currently have 205/60 on 15X6 rims. They will have to do for a while and I really don't want to flare the wheels.

I have a set of steel rims I have though about having widened to 7". Or maybe buy some 7" fuchs or minilights.

[DonDavis]

Awesome! Congrats!!

Originally Posted by dmcummins

One other thing that I have to figure out is the accelerator rod is too short. I need about a 1/2" to reach the ball. I'm hopping there is enough adjustment in the threaded rod to take care of this.

I fab'd one up using 1/8in stock rod from hardware store. I took a torch and heated the end of the original rod and pulled the ball end off. Take your time and heat SLOWLY! I then used various punches and used them as a radius for forming the end that connects onto the transmission. I used the original one as a reference. Form, check, form, check, etc...

Once I had the transmission end to my liking, I then cut the other end to the desired length. Scored the end and made a few SMALL notches for the adhesive to grip.

WARNING!!. Check the orientation of the ball end to the transmission end prior to next step!!

Insert the rod into the ball end filled with JB Weld. Wipe away the excess and let cure. I can't find the pics of it but another board member saw and thought it was factory-ish.

Easy to do and it provides more adjustment in the future.

[PcarPhil]

Congrats!

[E Sully]

Happy it came together for you. Enjoy the new engine.

[DW SD]

Awesome!
Congrats to you,

Doug

[dmcummins]

Originally Posted by DonDavis

Awesome! Congrats!!




I fab'd one up using 1/8in stock rod from hardware store. I took a torch and heated the end of the original rod and pulled the ball end off. Take your time and heat SLOWLY! I then used various punches and used them as a radius for forming the end that connects onto the transmission. I used the original one as a reference. Form, check, form, check, etc...

Once I had the transmission end to my liking, I then cut the other end to the desired length. Scored the end and made a few SMALL notches for the adhesive to grip.

WARNING!!. Check the orientation of the ball end to the transmission end prior to next step!!

Insert the rod into the ball end filled with JB Weld. Wipe away the excess and let cure. I can't find the pics of it but another board member saw and thought it was factory-ish.

Easy to do and it provides more adjustment in the future.

I ended up getting some 3/16 brass rod from Lowes. I cut about an inch longer than the original and turned the ends down just alittle. Then I cut threads into the rod and installed. I think this will work, if not I have the JB weld handy.

Now I have to get some, I believe M7, nuts for the end of the clutch cable and rebush my pedal cluster and I'll be ready to go.

[DonDavis]

Cool, and uh, I just replied to your other thread. I would still look at that closely.

Good luck!!