Need Advice and Help on Engine Sputter

[orange911]

I am concerned that maybe my chain jumped a link today but hoping not.

Motor is a stock 2.4T with original MFI. Mileage is assumed to be near 90,000. Temperature was a mild 55 degrees today. Car never runs hot and the oil pressure is still good (60 psi cold, 20 psi hot at idle). Guides have wear, but will only smoke on a hard deceleration. No significant smoke on startup. The only time I see any smoke in the tailpipe is if I take off aggressively, and that smoke is black. Cruising speed I see no smoke.

Today I cranked the car and it was running on all cylinders, but the right side was noisier than normal, so much that I lifted the lid to investigate. Did not see smoke and all the dials were reading normal.

Drove to the post office - no problem. Drove to refuel- no problem. While on my way home, the car seemed to hesitate, loose power and I heard the sputter in the exhaust. When I got home it seemed like I was running on 4 cylinders. I pulled all the plugs and they all exhibited dry fouling (dry black soot) so they were cleaned and the gaps averaged around 0.025"-0.027". Cleaned the contacts in the distributer and the rotor with emory cloth. Cranked it to see if there was any difference and there was no improvement. I have not cranked it again.

Not sure if it is a timing or misfiring issue.

Valves have been adjusted by my shop less than 8,000 miles ago. Distributer has lock nut and has not moved.

I am looking for advice to eliminate the simple things first to try and find a smoking gun. If I need to, I have a set of hydraulic tensioners that I can replace existing, so I am not afraid to get to the chain housing.

[orange911]

I also noticed that I was running W5DC plugs which are listed for carb'd Ts, not mfi and have been for the last 15,000 miles or more. Does this make a difference?

I also wanted to point out that I did not notice any clattering on the right side after I noticed the problem. Did something fall off?

[BK911]

Pull the intake valve covers and compare the valve lift on 1 and 4. that will tell you if the valve timing is close.

Go to harbour freight and buy a stethiscope (sp?). Really cool what an engine sounds like at the chain housing, intake and exhaust valve covers, etc.. You could use a screwdriver, but why not buy a new tool?

A valve hitting a piston is VERY expensive to fix!

[orange911]

What should I see between 1 and 4? Are they to be identical, one slightly trailing the other, or 180 degrees different?

[orange911]

I am beginning to doubt that it jumped a link. My reason is that when I have had cars out of time, there would be a "kick-back" when trying to start. Starter spins as easily as it did before.

Looking through the old receipts, I do not see a replacement of cap and rotor or plugs. I did see a "service kit", which I assumed was a gasket kit when adjusting valves. Looking for some help here folks.

[BK911]

1 and 4 will be 360^ out from each other. For a 2.4T you want 2.4 - 2.8 mm. 2.6 is optimum but anywhere in that range is good but both sides should be close to each other. Verify valve adjustment first.

I have no idea if that's your problem, but if you suspect it, check it. Like I said before, a valve tagging a piston is BAD!!