Most I think know that Euro Height is not a factory setting.

It is lower than any torsion bar 911 was ever delivered at. Through the 70's the factory books on setting a 911 up for sporting purpose actually kept the chassis square to the ground. We now like them with about 1 deg of rake (thank you Bruce Anderson). This gets us a little more bite out of the front and if low enought a bit of areo improvement.

As Beigermeister pointed out the positive to lowering a car is to lower the Center of Gravity which can help some with cornering. The reason most of us do so is to get it to look right.

There are a couple of reasons not to lower it to much other than impacting the bottom of the car.

One is it reduces the wheels travel as many know. Having a wheel bottom out in a corner can have major effect on handling. It can also kill you shock of if the bump stop is not enough to protect it.

It also puts the front in an unfavorable setting that can add bump steer.

Further, it often puts the front into a setting where there is less neg camber gain under compression.

The rear dose not seem as sensitive to lowering.

A car w stock diameter wheels (near 25") should not go much past "Euro Style" of 25.5/25" at the fenders as the risk of bottoming and other issues start to appear.

PS, I believe "Euro Style" is about 2" lower in front and about 1" lower in the rear than Porsche delivered there cars at in Europe.

USA cars I believe the front was lifted about .75" above euro cars to get the headlights to legal heights.

Stock US was so hight it ran positive camber and zero or neg camber was not even possible.

The best.

Hi Jay

Good to here from you

The car is great fun, hope you are selling more of these kits

I've had quite a few offers for the car since I got it back to the island :cool:

Cheers dean

Some random thoughts about lowering:

1. too much = n/g

2. Lower than "normal" should be combined with stiffer torsion bars so suspension jounce doesn't bottom the suspension.

3. Lowering and a slight rake improves high speed vehicle stability; reduces air flow under the chassis. So do front and rear spolers.

4. Use brighter lights at night so you can see further.

5. Be more vigilant alert for road trash. Once upon a time, I barely missed a dining room chair (w/arms) that dropped off a p/u truck a few seconds ahead of me. I was able to maneuver around it (quickly). Can't say what happened behind me.

6. Ground clearance is relative. There are many objects larger/higher than your ride height.

Sherwood

too low and it raises the roll centers. Handling isn't improved. Euro ride height is as low as I would go!

I don't think that low, high, whatever would make any difference there is you didn't manuever around the chair. Any 911 would have problems dealing with that head on.

Brown between US and Euro
 

My 74 Brown between US and Euro
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249968692.jpg

More specifically, the only difference in height for US versions vs European was less than half an inch (9mm) higher in front and less than an inch (21mm) higher in the rear, which seems well within the design limits of what the German engineers intended. Given a few decades later as the suspension settles, the difference in height would be even less, eventually settling into a more ROW levels. ( Porsche Technical Specifictions 911 SC, Turbo 3.3 78, 79, 80, 81 )