I hate to say i'm stuck!!!

[jerhic]

I have just spent my weekend trying to remove my rubber brake lines. They are still on my car. I tried wd40 for three daze prior to trying to loosen them, that didn't do it. I went to sears and purchased a propane kit for heat and that didn't do it. I have two nuts that now have slightly rounded points, (still get a very good bite with flair wrench) but now i find my self stuck! Ideas?

MY other problem no is that my passenger door will not open from the outside "every-time". Tore the door apart and i don't see any problems. What should I be looking for?

[Porsche_monkey]

Sounds like you need to use vice-grips now on the brake line.

Propane is not likely hot enough, so you need to use oxy-acetylene, or break it off, then drill and re-tap.

[ben parrish]

Yep, vice grips and new lines. Happened with mine also.
Ben

[jerhic]

would you use them on both sides? or should i hold the 11mm and twist the rubber line? I don't want to have to replace the metal line.
would "map gas be better then propane"

[billybek]

Mapp is hotter than propane but hard to focus on one area.
Sounds like the lines are toast anyway, could you cut them and get a deep six point socket on them?

[mjshira]

I would replace the lines as has been stated. probably just age and the end result will be worth it.

[jerhic]

I don't think i would have a problem removing them if i were to destroy them and that seems to be my problem. how hard is it to replace the hard lines that feed the rubber hoses. Fitting it through the tunnel seems like it could be tricky.

[Christien]

Try using a better penetrant than WD40. Ditch that stuff, it's garbage - use it for creaky door hinges Try something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Spray liberally every couple hours over a 24-hr period, then try again. These lubricants work by penetration, and it can take several hours, even days, for them to really soak in. It worked like a charm for me when I was in exactly your position.

Your problem with the door may be because the car's up on jack stands. It's a coupe, so the body shouldn't flex much, but I wouldn't get overly concerned until the car's back on the ground. Then see if the problem disappears.

[Whtnkls911]

Forget about WD-40 get PB Blaster and use heat. Heat up the area (not cherry red) and spray with PB Blaster. Heat helps expand the area to allow the stuff to work. Good luck!

[E Sully]

I had problems with my passenger side exterior door handle. There is a pin that pushes against a metal plate inside the door and on mine the plate must have bent in over the years and needed adjustment. Hope this helps.

[jerhic]

Sully your probably right i never thought of that but it makes sense to me.

[jerhic]

Whtnkls911 my brothers a fireman in Tuckwilla and I use to work at Toyota of Puyallup years ago, small world

[E Sully]

I would worry about a torch with brake fluid in the lines. Not sure about brake fluids flash point, or hot fluid coming out on me. My lines were fairly rusty and I replaced eveything this summer, making up new lines with a european flairing tool a friend had.

[jerhic]

when you use heat where should i be aiming the flame? small side or big side or both?

[Christien]

Heat expands metal, so you want to heat the nut, so it'll expand away from the threads and then loosen.

[jerhic]

i understand the expansion part, what i have a question with is location of the heat. if i do both sides both sides expand and I'm going is circles. do i heat the 17mm rubber hose nut or do i heat he 11mm metal line?

[Christien]

Ah, ok. Been a while since I did this myself, but if memory serves, heat from the rubber side. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

[porschenut]

Heat the nut on the hard line side. That is what the rubber-side connector threads into. I think. On second thought, I think Christien's right - the rubber side is female, so heat that side.

I'm surprised you would have to do this, however. You have a nut on both sides, and you said your flare nut wrench gets good bite. There shouldn't be any appreciable torque required to break them loose.

[kodioneill]

you need to purchase a 11mm line wrench for the rear and a 9mm for the front

[RWebb]

try Kroil or pb Blaster first - spray - then tap 20 times; repea1t every hour all day long

do that for a week

then try heat - no idea what it will do to brake fluid but I'd be conservative