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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Drilling out exhaust studs - quick help
I'm in the process of drilling out my exhaust studs using A Quiet Boom's tool.
Thanks to Christian for making this tool! It is really well made and precise. I couldn't imagine doing this without the tool. The drilling is going very well, and surprisingly quickly. I'm using plenty of oil and not letting it get too hot. My question is, how do i know how far into the head to drill? I don't want to start drilling into the head and ruin the head . Will the drill break through the stud and when I get to the end of it? Can anyone help me out here?
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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RETIRED
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The metal shaving will change consistency if you transition from the stud to the head. That is IF the stud was bottomed out. If there's a gap between the stud and the bottom of the hole, you feel a change.....
You can also double nut and pull one stud and see how deep they go......get an idea have far your can go w/o a worry.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Check the thread-length on the new stud, then wrap some colored electical tape on the drill using that measurement so you can see how deep you're drilling.
If the studs are bottomed out in the hole, the drill will not break through but you'll see Alu chips coming out.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD! 1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats. ![]() Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newcastle, WA
Posts: 966
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I just used a toothpick as a depth gauge in one of the other holes, then checked frequently during drilling. Hopefully you have at least one hole where the stud did not snap off.
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Metal Guru
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When you go from the steel stud to the aluminum head, the softer material will grab the drill and try to wrench it out of your hand.
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Paul B. '91 964 3.3 Turbo Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, H&R Coilovers, ESB spring plates- 210 lb |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Thanks guys. The studs aren't bottomed out. I got through the first one and it broke free at the end of the stud. Looks like the studs are about 3/4" into the heads, does that sound about right?
Two down, 10 to go!
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,951
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Quote:
Thanks for the help.
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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RETIRED
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Mark the depth on your drill bit........
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Quote:
what's a quiet boom's tool? pic please
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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It's a tool made by "A Quiet Boom" for drilling out broken exhaust studs. Here it is installed ready for it's next victim:
![]() And here are the results:
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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where can i get that?
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Here is a link to one page of a VERY long thread on the subject.
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thank you milt
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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sudo apt-get purge 930
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 4,838
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It is worth every penny and more for this tool. I used it and drilled out 12 studs, chased the threads, and inserted new studs in about 4 hours. I couldn't believe how good this tool is.
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Mark 1979 930 Euro ***GONE AND DON'T MISS IT AT ALL*** "Worrying about depreciation on your car and keeping mileage down is like not ****ing your girlfriend so her next boyfriend finds her more appealing" --clutch-monkey |
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waiting for reply from the quiet boom.
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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Go Speedracer, go!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Indianapolis
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I am reviving this thread to ask another question if anyone is still listening.
The first 4 studs drilled out very easy. Much easier than I thought. Would you recommend drilling out the other 8, or should I just leave them? The remaining studs look to be in ok condition. Very rusty, but the threads are in tact. I ran a tap over a few of them and they cleaned up pretty well. I am planning on putting the old heat exchangers back on with new bolts, but they are in rough shape so I will be replacing them soon. Probably within two years. Is it worth it to drill out all of the remaining studs so it's easier to replace the exchangers in a few years, or will the new bolts be easy to replace in a few years. Does anyone have experience with this?
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1981 SC ROW Coupe |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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I would tend to leave them alone, if they are serviceable for now. Especially if the Quiet Boom tool is yours to keep. You can always drill them out in two years, if you change heat exchangers at that time, and if they break. In the meantime, hit them with a wire brush, put antizeize goop on them and use the fancy brass/copper nuts.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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I dunno...I'm a very strong believer of, "while you're in there..." and, "why do the same job twice?"
Not only that, if you have full studs to grab onto, some PB blaster, and some heat; maybe you wont be drilling anything...
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If it flows, it goes. If its smooth, it moves. Any questions? 96 993 C2 (Current) 87 911 Factory Turbo-Look Cab (Sold) 85 911 Factory Turbo-Look Targa (Gone) Last edited by Nine9six; 01-05-2009 at 04:47 PM.. |
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Registered
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Leave them. Use the anti seize that has copper in it. Good luck!
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sudo apt-get purge 930
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brandon, FL
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+1 I didn't need to remove 4 of mine but they were pretty rusty, the engine was out making it very easy to do, and now I don't have to worry about when the old ones will fail. I replaced them all with stainless and I haven't had a single worry since.
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Mark 1979 930 Euro ***GONE AND DON'T MISS IT AT ALL*** "Worrying about depreciation on your car and keeping mileage down is like not ****ing your girlfriend so her next boyfriend finds her more appealing" --clutch-monkey |
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