Start with what's obviously wrong, like the exhaust. It's kinda hard for a slightly "cammy" engine to hit hard on top with an exhaust that's the wrong diameter strangling it.

You can find stock 3.2 heat exchangers pretty cheap and easily. Then make sure you're triggering the WOT switch, no vacuum leaks, etc.

Like most everyone else said, "something is wrong" I have a 3.2 in my 1973.5 and it's a rocker ship. It really fools a lot of people when they go challeging and see the 2.4 emblem on the back . Eventually, that's all they see, that and my tail pipe.

Good luck in finding your problem.

I adjusted the throttle linkage and it helped, when its floored its 95% to the stop, but I think it still needs something. It seams to be ideling alittle fast, Im going by ear as the tach doesnt work. It appears to be returning to the stop but I probably still need to work on the linkage.

I know the exhaust may not be optimal, but I don't think that its chocking it down that much. I have a two in two out sport exhaust so hopefully that helps alittle.

Ive read that you check the WOT switch for continuity. Where do you check this? A pic would help.

Now it is definatly better than the 2.4 it replaced. But Its no rocket ship. I'm sure I just need to git it sorted out. I'm thinking I'll get some injector cleaner as it was sitting and I had to tap on them to get the car to start. And see if I can find a local wrench that can check A/F mixture.

Well it has to be at the WOT stop to get WOT speed. at 95% you are not engaging the WOT microswitch. That could be your problem right there. and with a shorter throttle cable - you may not be activating the idle microswitch which engages the ICV (idle control valve)

Sounds to me like you are leaving some major HP on the table.

If Im checking my WOT switch correctly, it is not functioning. I put a meter across the top two, bottom two, and finally the outside two, and never got continuity with the throttle being held wide open with my other hand.

Is this a common thing to fail? How would this affect performance?

The WOT switch is not a common point of failure.

Listen to Don, he's dead on.

Throttle length was an issue on my 3.2 conversion. Once adjusted it gave me some eye opening moments for sure... I had more throttle waiting for me than I thought I had. My stock length was way short of "open".
I don't know if it's true of your car but I also found a white plastic stop under my gas pedal that prevented it from going to the floor. FYI?
I do believe in Steve Wong's custom chips and an open exhaust along with cams and other tweeks. Mine is amazing after years with a 2.7 I couldn't ask for much more myself.

Keep looking, the power is there my friend

The 3.2 is not cammy engine, they just appear that way because most are so poorly tuned that they lack the snap on the bottom end.

Thus, their reputation.

With old 225 tires my 2750 lb car with cat bypass and chip used to brake the tires loose under full accel in first and second just from the torque and I have a LSD and taller rear diff than he. Sticky tires curred.

Get the WOT switch working. With the 74 headers this thing should put out 225hp with a nice wide power band.

Then, get it on a dyno. See 911chips.com for how to use the fuel quality switch on the DME. Also, there is a brown jumper wire at the DMD. It trigers Ca and Japan smog adjustment. It needs to be unpluged.

Another thought, you said it had an after market chip. Maybe the chip is just not set up for your engine. Would a stock '86 chip fit? If so I have one you can borrow to see if the engine runs any better.

Thanks everyone. Let me get the linkage and the WOT sorted out and I'll go from there.

One problem I have is I'really don't know what I have. The car is a Euro motor,but I guess it has been federalized at some point because it has a 02 sensor added. The dme also has a sticker from a California company on it.

I chopped part of the plastic pedal stop off from behind the gas pedal to get more throw on my conversion - might be worth looking at if you are struggling to get enough cable pull.

The linkage fron the engine to the trans mount is just a bit short. I see that there is a different part number for the linkage so maybe the newer ones are a 1/4" longer or so. That would take care of my idle problem as its just wont allow any play at the end of the loop. I adjusted some at the pedal area and I'm 90 to 95% to hitting the stop. I am also looking at that pedal stop as being enough to get the last bit that I need.

My WOT switch is working. I don't know what I did different today than yesterday, but I get continuity at around 80% throttle.

I took it out for another spin and it is better than at first, but I believe there should be more. It is much better than the 2.4 it replaced, but my Boxster would still run away from it.

I just want to get as much sorted out that I can myself before I take it to a shop. I think I'll try and fab a new line from the engine to the trans mount next. That wont help the performance but it should help the idel.

Thanks, I'll pull the DME and take a look at what I have. This car was evidently federalized at some point as it now has an 02 sensor that would not have came on a Euro. So who knows what I have?

I also don't have the altitude thing. It was my understanding that I shouldn't need it.

I do not know but caution might be necessary of you are running a unknown chip with a high compression euro motor. :eek:

I said slightly, there should still be a definite top-end rush as you're passing 5K, correct?

Correct.

Not like a 2.4S or anything.

Go to 911chips.com and look at the HP curves (not TQ) in the dyno section. They climb nicely and in a liner manner and do not start to fall off until after 6200 rpm. Exhaust can effect the curve to a modest degree.

Slight tangent, but was wondering how many of us don't have our 3.2s set up properly.

What should we be doing beyond the 12-15k service (and oil changes in between)?

One possibility: I was surprised to find that the factory has no service interval for cleaning or replacing the injectors.

At the very least, the mixture should be checked and corrected per factory adjustment values.

Extremely critical yet mostly overlooked and forgotten.