2.7 head studs torqued and some turned a bit"i used the search button"
 

i picked up a this motor from a guy who changed his mind on a porsche race project. he bought the motor as a turn key 2.7 with all updates I.E. headstuds e cams webers etc etc.

ok while doing a general cleaning i decided to throw a 10mm torque wrench on the heads.

some of the bolts where tight some took close to a quarter of a turn before my torque wrench did its click at 24lbs.

my question, is this a sign the motor is just another 2.7 pulling studs or after a year or two of use is this normal.

this motor apparently got a full service before removed from the car.
thanks for all your help

ed

Not sure if this help b/c we have different motors.

I checked my head studs 1000 miles after the rebuild (3.0) and was able to turn them quite a bit. Could be that I used a clickable wrench the first time and a beam style the second time. Not sure if it was a quarter of a turn, more, or less ... wasn't paying attention.

I am inclined to believe that this isn't unusual after a rebuild.

How many miles are on the engine?

Have you got our host's book on 911 motor rebuilding? He is very thorough, probably covers this. I'm inclined to think it's not good news.

this is my gut feeling as well,

ed:(

I'm no expert, but I'd say, that a quarter of a turn is very little. Perhaps it could be down to, that your tourque wrench is a little off comapred to the one used during the rebuild.

well that is possible but only about half of them turned top on one side and botoms on the other side.

i have a very high end torque wrench that has been recently calibrated.

thats why i tightened to 24lbs between the 23-25 lbs.

thanks for the help

cheers ed

they all torqued up and on a 2.7 that's a good thing.

man i was hoping you would chime in.

i think i may just run it and see what happens.

i know its a chance but my options are tear it down or run it and see what happens.

ed

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the proper way to re-torque the head studs was to start with #1 in the sequence and loosen that nut about 1/2 turn and then torque to spec. and proceed through the sequence on the rest of them, loosening each one 1/2 turn then torque. Something about when you break loose the head nut when you try to check the torque and then that sudden turn actually applies more torque that stud than the ones that just turned a little before the proper torque was achieved. Just the way I do it.

I had mine out last fall for clean up and reseal, same deal I said a little prayer before each one, and a few turned a 1/4 turn but they all took the 24lbs, like John said, that's a good thing. I say run it as is.

Here is a pic of mine, with my cheap labor helper at hand. :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1233257364.jpg

mark

you are correct

what i did was put a torque wrench on them at 24lbs and tightened some turned easy.
after i noted how many where loose i then loosened all slightly and torqued in sequence.

what difference this made im not sure as they where hap hazzardly loose out of sequence.

i am aware of alloy galling etc.

i just didnt want to bore people with all details.

ed

mikeferg75

looks good thats the best help you get.

i have one of those hes now 13 and know more than me:D

cheers ed

After my rebuild, a couple have turned a little - but I know all my threads have bee replaced. The fact that they torqued up is a good sign. I'd run it, then check the torque again with the first valve adjust. You really don't know anything until you get a history of whether they are getting loose over time or if this is just a one time re-torque to a perfectly good engine.

If a 2.7 cly. head studs made it to 24lb's torgue things are good to go! For now anyway.
A 2.7 would have failed before 24lb's easly if it was going to pull head studs.

BTW: If I don't now that for sure a 2.7 has case INSERTS I lower the head torque to 20lb's.

i was told it has updates but im not 100% sure.

should i lower torque.

ed

If that engine was from ALASKA I bet you will be just fine!

No I would just leave it alone for now, since you already set the torque at 24.

engine shipped up from laguna hills cali.

the guy i got motor from bought motor from a place in laguna hills cali, and never put motor in car.said work was performed by i think black forest if that sounds like a shop some may of heard of. and a service was done on motor back in 03 when he bought it at Randle Aase


cheers ed

Dick is right on.

When checking the head torque on a 2.7 or earlier, check at 18-20 ft-lbs with a calibrated torque wrench. EDIT: If the nut turns at all, STOP. You do not want to turn the nut, even if it isn't close to 18 ft-lbs. This will tell you if there is an issue. This is particularly true if you don’t absolutely know the engine has proper case inserts. In this situation, I would never loosen and re-torque.

This is one case where “it is best to leave sleeping dogs lie”. Count your lucky stars.

If you have a properly rebuilt engine, there isn’t any problem with re-torque the head nuts.

Best,
Grady

run it, you'll know soon enough if something is wrong.