'87 Steering Wheel removal?

[fxeditor]

Hello everybody,

I was so excited when the steering wheel I won on ebay arrived today! At last I thought I can replace the wheel in my car that had it's leather wrapping holding on by threads with a pristine, undamaged one. I read the tech article that said I needed a 27mm socket to remove the wheel so I ran out and got one (not as easy a task as I would have thought) and then proceeded to pop off the horn pad only to discover that the tool won't fit through the hole in the wheel to get to the nut!!! The center horn contact tab is for some reason is slotted lower in the wheel hub so my socket will not fit. So, I think to myself I will go down to the Autozone and buy a cheap "non-impact" socket but even that is too thick! So my question to you all is what magical tool do I use to remove the steering column nut?

Below are a couple of pics to show what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance,
Michael

[Paul K]

I seem to remember I had the same problem- tried to use an impact socket and it was too big to fit through the hole. You have to use a non-impact socket, slide it through the gap, then attach an extension. Don't use either the steering wheel lock or the end of the travel to push against- you can damage the steering rack.

Good luck!

Paul.

[fxeditor]

Thanks for the advice Paul. I think I'm going to comb Pep Boys and Walmart tomorrow for some cheapo sockets. maybe they will fit. Hopefully they will stand up to the impact driver!

Michael

[Nine9six]

I have never replaced an OEM steering wheel, but if it were me, I would simply take a pair of channel locks and bend the horn tab up and out of the way. Once removed, bend it back in place or leave it as is, until reinstallation...If that ever happens.
HTH,
Paul

[RacerX1166]

I'm subscribing to this one since I just got my Momo and bearing repair sleeve today for my 89.

[imcarthur]

I found a 27mm short socket fit in nicely on a 6" extension. The key I think is that it's short with a thinner wall.

Ian

[fxeditor]

What's crazy is around here all the metric sockets at the auto parts stores stop at 26mm! The english equivalent is between 1 and 1-1/8 inches. The 1 inch fits through the hole but won't fit the nut. The 1-1/8 is too big to fit through. At this point Nine9six's suggestion is looking better but I will have to bend both the old and new steering wheels to complete the installation.

[robert walsh]

Short socket, put it on, "THEN" put the extension on and you'll be fine.

[fxeditor]

Originally Posted by robert walsh

Short socket, put it on, "THEN" put the extension on and you'll be fine.

Been trying that but it hasn't worked yet. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight tomorrow (with my new steering wheel with me)!

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by fxeditor

Been trying that but it hasn't worked yet. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight tomorrow (with my new steering wheel with me)!

Oh yeah!!! Dont spend the money on a good 27mm socket for the limited use it will see in installing and uninstalling steering a steering wheel. Even a set of large metric sockets at Harbor Freight is less than good quality Mac or Snap-on socket.

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by fxeditor

Thanks for the advice Paul. I think I'm going to comb Pep Boys and Walmart tomorrow for some cheapo sockets. maybe they will fit. Hopefully they will stand up to the impact driver!

Michael

Mike,
You wont need an impact socket to remove the steering wheel nut. It has a spring washer underneath the nut. When reinstalling, remember to put the concave side up against the nut, and NOT down against the steering wheel.
Pay close attention prior to removing your OEM wheel, and make sure the wheels are pointed straight fwd before removing. This way when you install the new wheel it should be installed and clocked correctly when driving straight down the street. Do not torque the new wheel down until you have driven the car and assured proper installation orientation of the steering wheel. Nothing more irritating that having your wheel off center when the car is driving straight and true.
P.S. I used my knees against the wheel to keep it from turning.

[SteveinTO]

I'd say you could use a non-impact socket on an impact wrench to remove that nut. It's not on that tight.

That said, I wouldn't make a habit of mis-using tools.

Best method, of many, is to have an assistant hold the wheel firmly while you spin the nut with a manuel breaker bar. But how many of us have an assistant at the appropriate time?

In this case, as mentioned before, don't crank it against the steering stop or the ignition key activated steering lock. Make sure you look away, or wear safety glasses when you give it a burp.

[porschenut]

Why even bother using an impact wrench? The nut is easily removed with an 18" breaker bar and a 27mm socket on the end of a 6" extension. I can't believe how difficult you all are making this out to be. You don't need an assistant. Stand up in the doorway, reach in with your left hand to hold the wheel while your right hand pushes down on the breaker bar.

[ned903]

I used a short, non-impact socket from Sears. No problem, no drama.

[fxeditor]

Alright guys, I'm heading to Harbor Freight in a little while. I'll report back what I end up getting!

Thanks for all the advice!

Michael

[dw1]

Same as ned903, I used a standard Craftsman ratchet-drive (not impact-drive) socket and it fit just fine.

Come to think of it, I may have used a 1 1/16 socket.

I've replaced the steering wheel, and had it off several other times for dash panel removal & replacement, gauge removal & cleaning, dash bulb replacement, etc.

My only issue was that I touched the horn wire with the socket and/or extension and woke up the wife (and probably the neighbors, too)!

[RacerX1166]

Well, another case where this board has saved me cursing, screaming, and throwing things.

Got the shorter 27mm socket at Sears today, went home and did the bearing sleeve repair, which took all of 15 minutes, then installed my new Momo. This will be so much better than stock, I can feel it already. I also am so much happier with the bearing remedied.

I went with the Momo Competition since it seemed to fit my needs the best and I think the all black looks better with the Linen interior than introducing silver.

One last thing to do before I put my new toy away for the winter; I'm awaiting a set of pedals so that I can set the thing up to not require an ankle rebuild for heel toe downshifting.

Since the board likes photos, here's one of the new wheel.

[fxeditor]

Okay everybody Here's what I found at HF:



This is a nice set for the price, item #45467. Regularly $29.99 I got it on sale for $18.99! I already had a much nicer ratchet and breaker bar but I'm sure they will come in handy someday! The 27mm socket fit perfectly and when I got home the job was complete in about 5 minutes.

Thanks again to everybody for their help on this one!


Michael

[pfhump]

I need more 'knee' space in my '89 911 coupe, & want to replace the 'stock' wheel w/ a Momo...Do I need the $82 conversion kit? Is the 'Porsche crest' on the horn pad an option I can fine here at 'Pelican Parts'? I read the posts about getting the 'right' short 27 mm socket, which is most helpful...After disconnection the neg. battery terminal and pulling off the horn pad, getting that 'big' nut loose...what else do I need to know? Thanks....

[Talewinds]

I second your post pfhump. If my 88' ever arrives from the west coast the steering wheel is the first improvement I'm going to make. I thought the stock wheel was so close to the dashboard I'd like to find a way to bring the wheel up and inch or so and back towards me a couple of inches....
Is that even possible???