Boy did I muck things up royally...

[egertk]

So a word to all of those who have not bled a CIS fuel system before. When the manual states to hold the plunger for no more than 5 seconds... they really mean it.

I had changed out my fuel filter a few days ago after having the car in the garage and doing work to it all winter. So following the manual I did the fuel bleeding procedure but heard an awful loud high pitch almost singing from the injectors when doing this. So I turned it off, checked everything... still baffled. So I did it again, this time with my mechanics stethoscope, the noise only came when I depressed the plunger and it was coming from the injectors themselves. Having never heard this noise before (is that normal when doing this?) I figured that air was going through the injectors rather than fuel, and making that loud whistling noise I was hearing. Turns out fuel was going through... A LOT of fuel, as in enough to fill up almost to the throttle body. I've drained and siphoned what I can, drained the oil since some got past the rings into the crankcase. So lesson learned the hard way. If I put in flush the oil a few times and wait for the system to clear of fuel... should I be OK?

[x98boardwell]

I just did this on mine. Even heard the same sound. The worry is that you have dumped so much fuel into your cylinders that you would have a hydro-lock situation and would need to remove the plugs and turn the motor over until the fuel is gone.

On my car, I pulled the fuse relays and turn the motor over (manually) and everything was A-ok. Then put everything back together and the car started fine with the noise not there anymore. I had my fuel dist. rebuilt and just rebuilt the motor aka... no fuel anywhere before I primed.

The only difference is that I have a Turbo with manual injectors (K-tronic) so not sure what your working with here. I hope this helps.

Best of luck!!

Bryan

[MotoSook]

Oh boy... remove the spark plugs. Remove the boot on top of the air meter and lock the throttle body open to let the gas flash off. You've already drained the oil and since you didn't try to crank the engine (thank goodness you didn't) any fuel would have drained into the crank case. Leave the drain plug off and let it drip. Leave the drain plug off. Let it sit over night.... the gasoline will flash off and you should be OK to add oil later. Before you start the car, spin the crank by hand to prime the lube circuit and dilute any gas that might be in there.

[ruf-porsche]

That must be the calaphony symphony that every writers write about when they described the wail of a flat six.

[john walker's workshop]

you don't need to bleed the system after replacing the fuel filter. it will crank a few seconds longer before firing is all.

[Wayne 962]

I had a problem on my 914-6 conversion (2.7 with CIS), where for some reason it wouldn't start when hot (fuel pump check valve, or accumulator, never did find the problem). One solution was to take off the air cleaner and "MEOW the injectors" as I would call it. That sound is a bit freaky, but perfectly normal.

-Wayne

[egertk]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

you don't need to bleed the system after replacing the fuel filter. it will crank a few seconds longer before firing is all.

Yeah wish I wouldn't of listened to the "underwear" workshop manual

So can anybody explain though what that high pitch whistling is? Is that just the normal sound those injectors make?

[MotoSook]

Originally Posted by egertk

Yeah wish I wouldn't of listened to the "underwear" workshop manual

So can anybody explain though what that high pitch whistling is? Is that just the normal sound those injectors make?

The high pitch sound is fuel rushing out the injector tips. And it is normal. (not to be confused with the high pitch whine of the CDI box.

When in doubt...ask the board...I'm sure you know now.

[egertk]

Originally Posted by Souk

The high pitch sound is fuel rushing out the injector tips. And it is normal. (not to be confused with the high pitch whine of the CDI box.

When in doubt...ask the board...I'm sure you know now.

Yeah lesson learned... when I first heard the noise I went right inside and spent an hour on here searching for anything related to CIS, high pitch, shrieking, singing, etc. and didn't come up with anything meaningful. (Of course I should of just posted and waited for a response at that point...) So hopefully anybody in my same situation in the future will see this thread! Thanks for all of the input everybody, going to let it air out till the end of the week. Pop off valve is propped open, injectors are out, spark plugs are out, and I'm going to try and take the muffler off to air out the exhaust system. I'll squirt some oil in the cylinders and hand crank over the system a few times first. Then crank it over without the coil wire hooked up just to make sure I get good oil pressure throughout. Figure I'll run some cheap oil through first to flush the system before I refill with mobil1. Since I don't feel like messing up another 75 bucks worth of oil. (The oil had a whole 500 miles on it...)
Anything I'm missing?

[MotoSook]

You have a good plan, but make sure you use the right kind of Mobil1. You should be aware of the ZDDP content issues of late. Run a search for "Ultimate Oil" and read up.


Read the threads on oil, but here's my simple opinion. Get yourself some Shell Rotella 15W40 for about $38 per case. It has 1200 ppm of ZDDP and you can find it in most stores. Brad Penn is also a good oil at 20W50. It's a little more expensive than the Rotella, but it is suppose to have yield great results in testing.

For flushing you can probably use Castrol GTX High Mileage for about $29/case.

[Superman]

Look at the bright side. By recognizing the problem before running the starter, you may have avoided bending a ROD.

[egertk]

I've been reading all of the oil threads that I've stumbled upon, without really seeing any good definitive answer, mostly just opinions. I did however see a link to mobil1 data stating that their 15W50 had a level of 1200. That's the bottle I use, though I get the big jug at Walmart. Is that oil sufficient?

Originally Posted by Souk

You have a good plan, but make sure you use the right kind of Mobil1. You should be aware of the ZDDP content issues of late. Run a search for "Ultimate Oil" and read up.


Read the threads on oil, but here's my simple opinion. Get yourself some Shell Rotella 15W40 for about $38 per case. It has 1200 ppm of ZDDP and you can find it in most stores. Brad Penn is also a good oil at 20W50. It's a little more expensive than the Rotella, but it is suppose to have yield great results in testing.

For flushing you can probably use Castrol GTX High Mileage for about $29/case.