SSIs questions: How much torque for HE nuts? Exhaust paste?
 

I just got these in, and I'm about to crawl out of my skin to start putting them on.

I noticed that there is this funny looking curved 12mm wrench that comes with them to install the hidden nuts. How much torque do I put the nuts on with, and how are you supposed to torque them correctly with this wrench?

My SC has the thin flange exchangers with the crush gaskets. Can I use Wurth exhaust paste on them to get them to stick to the heads? Also, my heads are clean of gasket material, but the ports are a little rough, so the exhaust paste would help seal.

These things really are a work of art, and the dog agrees!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1234990396.jpg

I use a dab of grease to stick the gaskets on then I use a 1/4 inch rachet and hand TQ everything with that and a swivel socket less the 1 nut you can't get with it and use the wrecnh provided. both have about the same leverage. did you ceramic coat your muffler?

Thanks! Is it safe to use a little bit of the Wurth exhaust paste? I have some pits in the head that leaked a little bit last time I installed new gaskets.

No, I'm only using it until I can save up for one of yours!!!

Hmm it looked shiny anyhow best of luck. stay in touch I get used units from time to time

Apply anti-seize paste to the HE fasteners for a fighting chance to remove them at a later date.

Sherwood

I'm all stocked up. I have copper based high temp anti-seize for the barrel nuts, copper nuts for HE studs, and SS bolts w/ silicone bronze nuts for the muffler hardware.

Can anyone answer my question about using Wurth exhaust paste on the HE to head gaskets? My heads are a little pitted. I installed the factory heat exchanges with new gaskets a few weeks ago and ran the car for maybe 50 miles. Enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. I then took off the exhaust system and noticed some carbon streaks on the new gaskets clearly showing some leaks. I don't want to go beyond the recommended torque, so can I use the paste to stop the leaks?

Typical spec for a M8 nut would be 18 ft lb. With the use of antiseize, which is an absolute must, you don't want to use that spec for fear of overtorquing and breaking an exhaust stud. Hand tight (w/out muscling up on the wrench) is plenty! If you find a leak, then tighten a bit more.

Suggest retightening the HE fasteners after some run in time.

Does this particular exhaust paste harden to close up any exhaust leaks? IMHO, you shouldn't need any. Make sure all exh. flanges are flat and in line with each other.

Sherwood

Hi Speed racer,
Looks like a good project. I'm about to remove a set of SSI's from a friends
'81 car. (Have to put SMOG crap back on for CA) Can you post a picture of the 'special' bent wrench that came with your SSI's.

I have the barrel nut tool and wobble sockets...but sounds like I might need to make a wrench to get to a nut or two?

Thanks, Cooper

Good project is one way to put it, frustrating is another. I'm ready to kick the car in trying to get the dam* oil lines off that have been soaking overnight. With my luck I am willing to bet the threads will be destroyed when I finally get it off. Dremel is coming out tomorrow.

I've already put all of my parts up for the evening, but I borrowed this picture from another thread showing the wrench you'll need. I hope whoever installed your SSIs used lots of anti-seize, otherwise it's going to be tough.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1079317695.jpg

Thank you very much. Looks like a crazy distributor wrench that hangs a U-turn.

I know what you mean about those oil lines. I've replaced my two rubber/metal ones between tank, engine, and T-stat...I got lucky they all came off ok.

I recently just used heat to get one loose for an engine drop.

I hope the exhaust swap goes well too...esp. because it is a buddies car...don't want any problems. I think the SSI's were installed 5-7years ago...going to soak with PB for sure. They are thin flange so the have been shimmed as the stockers are thick flange.

Good luck with your project. Thanks again for the wrench pic.

Coop