Getting Ready for 915 Rebuild - It's my turn.
 

I'm picking up a 915 to rebuild this week. I was originally going to rebuild the one on my car, but I found a core for a decent price and figured this way I could still drive my car and rebuild the 915 at my leisure. It supposedly needs a new 2nd gear syncro. I figured eitherway its sort of a crap shoot...since you never really know what is going to be truly wrong until you open it up. No guarantee that mine is any better.

So I'm gearing up (no pun intended) for my rebuild over the next few months...which I'm sure it will take that long since I have a 1,000 more "important" things to do.

Anyway...my first question...do I need an engine stand to work on the 915 comfortably?

I'm just completing my first rebuild and FWIW I found using my engine stand helpful and convenient for most of the disassembly and reassembly.

There are some steps where putting the trans on the floor is easier but not most of it. JMO

I did mine on the floor of the basement. A couple of blocks of wood are all you need to keep the input shaft from hitting the floor. Here's a picture of my 'workshop'. The tranny isn't that heavy, especially once you start to disassemble it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235359500.jpg

Take lots of photos, have lots of zip lock bags available.

Does anybody know how much it does weigh? Is one person able to move this thing around.

I remember my 944 trans was about 150 lbs. I think. Which was moveable by one person...but much easier with two.

When I had mine out last spring, I could shuffle it around the garage by myself, more or less. I wouldn't have been able to get it into my basement by myself very easily, but probably could've managed it over time if needed. 2 People make it a piece of cake. I'm also a wimp.

Tom

From an earlier post of mine...

Let's look at this a little closer. The weight of a filled 915 RoW version 915/67 with cooler is approximately 60 kg (132 lbs). The cooler weighs almost nothing (I can testify to this because I've cleaned a number of them), so let's call the USA 915/68 at 130 lbs.

These weights are for 3.2 Carrera 915s. Not sure which one you're working on but you'll find that most aluminum case 915/61 and 63 versions are also about 130 pounds, while the earlier magnesium housing units are a bit lighter.

Regarding a stand, a cheapie, light-duty stand can be as irritating as helpful - a strong, heavy-duty stand is recommended. Some of the fasteners are high-torque and require breaker bars (or 1/2" drive impact wrench) to remove, and a 1/2" drive torque wrench to install. For that, and shaft installation into the housing, the HD stand really simplifies the job. A stand also simplifies shift fork adjustment, as well as diff housing disassembly if your housing needs to be sent out for pinion shaft reinforcement.

Engine stand - welded thick wall tubing + o.e. stand allows all operations of both repairs & rebuilds.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235417140.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235417168.jpg

I've used the 2x4 method like Dentist did when I used to do 901's. I've only been involved with one 915 tear down and we did it the same way.

sure a good stand is nice but query was:

"question...do I need an engine stand to work on the 915 comfortably?"

answer = no

also, I think there is a "tool pool" in here of people that have the special tools required to do a rebuild correctly. Many people buy all the tools just to do one rebuld. I bet you can rent them for a very reasionable price. Anyone want to help Matt out?

I didn't use a stand when I rebuilt mine. Honestly the thought to use one never really crossed my mind, and I have one! I did most of my work on my work bench in the garage. I used lots of zip lock bags and electrical ties to keep everything in the right order.

130lbs sounds pretty accurate for an SC tranny. I just put mine back in for the second time a few weeks ago, and my back strain gauge agrees with that. It's heavy enough that you think twice about picking it up to move it, but it's not so heavy one person can't do it. Remember, lift with your legs, not your back. Unless you have bad knees like me, then you lift with your back and spend the rest of the evening with ice packs on your back.

One "tool" that I did use that was very helpful was an old clutch disk. This was used to put the input shaft into so that I could put it in a vice and torque on bolts. It's been a few years since I did it, so I can't remember exactly what bolts I needed it for, but I do remember it being very helpful. Also, I had to get the shift fork alignment tool because I was stupid and followed the Bentley. You don't need to loosen the shift forks to get the stacks out, despite what it tells you.

Good luck!

Thanks for looking out. I actually posted a thread on the Classifieds asking if anyone wanted to sell me there old stuff that they don't need anymore.

You're right though, I'm going to drop $ 200 just to buy those sycro hub removal tools???

You're right...if anyone has an old clutch disc they don't need I'd appreciate it. My engine is still in and I plan to keep it that way until it's time to make the swap.

Define "comfortably."

Hi there!
I'm in the process of doing a service on my 915 myself.
I have just got off the center cover, and it looks pretty good. It seems like this is a pretty straight forward job. (Surprisingly)
You only need a power tool for removing the 27mm and 36mm nuts in the nose cover.

I put my tranny on a trolley like shown before here, and it works great, except for having to bend my back a lot. I'm feeling that as I'm writing this..! ;)

Good luck!

$200! I don't remember spending anywhere near that amount on tools. Come to think of it, the only "special" tool I bought was the shift fork alignment jig. Normally I wouldn't advocate not having the correct tools to do a job, but do a search and I think you'll find many good substitutes to those $200 tools you mention.

To do a "repair" on a 915 you buy or make the tools that you need. To "rebuild" one you will have to spend between $3500 and $4000 for tools (which includes all of the necessary setup tooling for the ring & pinion, bearing race drivers, pullers, hydraulic press, dial indicators, etc.).

Anyone interested in the 915 might have some fun reading the Rennlist thread linked below:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/911-forum/397133-it-cost-how-much.html?highlight=915+transmission+repair

How about $4 plus a large socket you're not in love with...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235446314.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235446344.jpg

Great tip!
I'll probably use that myself..!

Just be careful that your home made tools do the job as the factory tool intended; i.e., (1) when pressing an item is intended, the tool is strong enough to withstand that activity, and (2) when striking a part with a tool that the tool is strong enough, and designed for, striking. A tool that chips, breaks, pops loose or bends can injure the user, and collateral damage from using a tool that doesn't perform as the factory tool can be a very expensive consequence.