Selling a high mileage 911

[autobonrun]

It seems as if several of us have some very nice 911's with 150k, 200k, even +250k miles on them. Assuming the cars have been kept up over the years, what is the best way to prepare them for sale? I'm not talking about in the current market, but when the market returns to normal.

Let's say the paint is good, suspension components replaced, interior excellent, all maintenance records, etc. , what should be done with the engine drivetrain to instill confidence in a buyer given the mileage? For those of us that have never had to open the engine, is it best to sell it as is at a price that's low, or is it better to have the topend rebuilt (even though it doesn't need it) so you can advertise "100 miles on a rebuilt engine"?

One thing I thought about was having a leak down and compression test done by a reputable shop to verify the condition then offering the car at a higher price with a warranty on engine and drivetrain by taking a portion of the sales price and putting it in escrow for something like 6 months or 6k miles.

Curious on thoughts about the options. Just looking ahead in case I decide to free up some space in the garage.

[hammerhead222]

No authority here but wouldnt you end up spending more on a rebuild than the car is worth?

compression/leakdown and full PPI would be a good marketing tool but offering a warranty on someone else's driving style sounds scary

my question - what about an oil analysis? does that tell you anything about the engine without having a history of oil tests? can a single report be compared to other engines with similar mileage?

[Por_sha911]

Having good records is a major plus. For me, I would prefer to buy a car at a lower that hasn't been rebuilt. This way I know the rebuild was done right...

[autobonrun]

The points you guys bring up are the very ones I'm wrestling with. In my case I have a recent oil analysis (excellent results) and a dyno test from a couple years ago that show it's putting out more than rated HP (SSI's installed).

I think you're right I'd never recover the cost of a rebuild. One advantage I do have is the time I've owned my car. I'm just the second owner with complete maintenance records all the way back to 1984; all on computer. Every oil change, part replacement, performance upgrade, and tire purchase is on a spreadsheet.

The point about how to warranty against abuse is a good one. I was thinking setting maybe aside 2-3k of the purchase cost in some type of escrow account to cover engine/drivetrain issues might be a way to instill some confidence. I'm not sure what might be the best route, but bouncing ideas off you other 911 owners sure helps.

[gtc]

These aren't Toyotas. Anyone serious about buying a 25+ year old Porsche (or any car for that matter) should know that there is no warranty.
I think that aspiring Porsche owners are gravitating towards Boxsters and 996s now, since they have become so cheap to purchase. As a result, pre-964 911s have become basically an enthusiast (or collector) car. So if I were to market my car right now, I would try to sell it as one that has been well maintained and tastefully upgraded, and list it on pelican, rennlist, craigslist, and with the PCA.

Having your own PPI performed is a good idea, in my opinion. To newbies it will look like a sign of good faith, and for others you will have a stronger platform for arguing your price.
When I had a PPI performed before bought my car (with 179k on the odo), some issues were discovered that the previous owner was unaware of, and I was able to negotiate the price down significantly.

[the]

If the car runs fine and you are looking to sell it, it doesn't make sense to do a top end, or anything else costing thousands of dollars.

Clean it up the best you can, if there are little cosmetic problems that can be fixed relatively inexpensively then do those, and just get what you can get for it.

I don't think many buyers are going to be interested in paying a higher price to get involved in some escrow situation for 6 months, etc. There is a lot of room for dispute with that.

The bottom line is these are great cars, but like any mechanical device they eventually get worn out and lose value. A 200K car on an original engine just isn't going to fetch a lot of money, the best thing is to just realize that and just sell for what the car is worth.

[Rob Channell]

If you want the most money out of it you have to part it out. I think they are worth more in pieces than as a whole. Other than that, I would probably just go with a PPI and maybe a dyno plot and make sure the bushings and everything were pretty tight for a good driving feel. You are probably already there.

[frank edwards]

i like cars that have been owned for as many years as posible,with sheets of paperwork,no repaint, and rebuilds fully documented ,as origonal as possible,your car seems to fit the bill,so you can ask a decent price for the vehicle,just give honest description,and good photoes.good luck.

[Rrrockhound]

I would not spring for a pre-emptive PPI. If I were buying, the only PPI I would trust would be one I paid for myself, not one the seller furnished.

[chrisdaniel1]

I just bought a car like yours. I have had 3 previous Porsches (1972-2006 in range), so I already knew a little about what to look for. But I bought my 140K+ mile car because of: Service records, solid 3rd party PPI and excellent compression/leakdown test. If your car is solid you will sell to enthusiasts; if it is not you will sell to the "boy racers!" I would hold out for the prior...