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moneymanager's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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CLutch operation, 74

My clutch is relatively new and worked perfectly until a couple of days ago. I removed the floorboard, which allows the clutch pedal to travel farther than it should toward the floor. While it was out I moved the car a few feet, then back, trying not to push the clutch down more than normal. Now the clutch is not disengaging, making shifting into first and reverse nearly impossible; it behaves exactly as it does when out of adjustment and needing to be tightened 2-3 turns. I'm wondering if it is that easy to stretch the cable, or is it likely I bent the clutch arm? Is the cable toast? It's wet out, so it will be a day or two before I can look for myself. Thanks for any experiences.

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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 02-23-2009, 01:59 PM
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It's pretty certain that you did not bend the clutch pedal. However, the roll pin holding it to the shaft may have been just ready to go and the floorboard incident just brought that about more quickly. From your post, I gather you've been adjusting it more than once a year, or less?

If so, I'd be all over that pin.
Old 02-23-2009, 03:48 PM
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Hi Milt, good thinking. I'll give a look tomorrow when the sun comes back. I probably average one clutch adjustment a year, for one reason or another.
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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 02-23-2009, 04:13 PM
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It's pretty common for the clutch fork to break, causing your exact problem. You push the clutch down too far, one of the fork arms break, and the clutch acts like it is not disengaging all the way.
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Rex
1975 911s and 2012 Range Rover Sport HSE
1995 BMW R1100RS, 1948 Harley FL
Old 02-23-2009, 06:25 PM
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Damn! Given a choice between stretching the cable, shearing a cluster pin, or breaking the clutch fork, with my luck, I'll probably get the fork! The only thing that gives me hope is that I drove the car and shifted it 40-50 times yesterday. I'd have thought the arm would have broken off by now. Or does it just bend a bit, letting the other end of the fork do most of the job?
Any way to test this other than by process of elimination? Thanks,
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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 02-24-2009, 06:48 AM
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Once my fork started to go, it went quick. If you shifted 40 to 50 times without it getting worse, that's a good sign. Keep thinking it's an adjustment, most times it is something simple.
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Rex
1975 911s and 2012 Range Rover Sport HSE
1995 BMW R1100RS, 1948 Harley FL
Old 02-24-2009, 07:03 AM
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Well that's encouraging! Still unclear why removing the floorboard changed the clutch adjustment! Clearly if the floorboard were pushed into an odd position then restored to normal you might sense a change in clutch behavior, as the fully extended position was altered. But everything seemed perfectly normal.
I'm thinking that if I now tighten the cable, the clutch should work well once or twice or more then bend a bit more so that it is trying to release with only one arm functional as it may be now. I take it from your pic that the fork just bent, it didn't fall off? Thanks again,
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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 02-24-2009, 07:15 AM
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Well thankfully you were both too pessimistic. The pin is fine, not sheared off, and I drove the car back and forth in the driveway today 20-30 times after adjusting the clutch without incident. So I don't think the fork is gone. Apparently pulling the floorboard and replacing it changed how close the pedal can get to the floor just enough to make shifting into first or reverse impossible. On my car, the adjustment at the rear needs to be as tight as it can be without causing the clutch fork to begin to operate the clutch. If I loosen it at all, the clutch pedal engages too far down its travel and won't fully disengage even when the pedal hits the stop when the car is warm. So obviously a turn or two of the adjustment nut, and 1/8 of an inch or so in the location of the floorboard make a huge difference. Today I actually altered the floorboard a bit to let the pedal go just a bit lower. Anyway thanks to both of you for the ideas. I think I am dealing only with an adjustment question.
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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 02-25-2009, 04:34 PM
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Umm...spoke too soon. Took car out for weekly spin today. Got nearly home and couldn't shift into any gear. I'm thinking the fork was bent a bit earlier, I pulled the cable tighter allowing the clutch to function for a while, and now it has either broken completely or bent so far it's non-functional. Will check the cluster and cable again, but it looks like we need a new fork. Did last for maybe 50 miles and maybe 100 shifts before finally breaking though.

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jhtaylor
santa barbara
74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's.
73 Targa (gone but not forgotten)
Old 03-05-2009, 03:17 PM
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