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Last edited by mbaran; 06-01-2010 at 09:25 AM..
Old 05-31-2010, 05:10 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #241 (permalink)
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As for oil control...don't forget the fact that these engines are mounted backwards! Instead of using the traditional rear-sump oil pans, use a front-sump pan like the one that comes from the "Supper Caddies." That way upon acceleration, the oil has a better chance at staying near the oil-pickup tube.
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:37 PM
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Matter-of-fact, Improved Racing has a great baffled and gated pan that may work for you. It's designed for Holdens which require a front sump:

Improved Racing Holden LS1 Front-Sump Road Race Oil Pan & Baffle - 6.5 Quarts

Here's a picture of one...



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Old 05-31-2010, 05:44 PM
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Braking will generate more Gs than acceleration even in this beast so I'm not convinced the rear sump (as installed in a 911) is an advantage. Baffles are a good thing though.
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:27 PM
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Update:
New engine is in the car.. 2nd time around and I was able to get the engine partailly assembled and raised into the car in less than 4 hours. without the oil pan and using my jack stand mounted accross the cradle works great.

Still waiting for my Lingenfelter 58x to 24x reluctor wheel conversion box along with my LS2 front cover and cam sensor which will hopefully show up before the weekend.

Here are a couple of pre install shots.









Old 06-01-2010, 03:36 PM
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As far as my split air filter idea, unfortunatly it will not clear my radiator . I could possibly cut down the MAF and filter assembly if I really wanted to make it work but I think I will stick with my original fender mounted filter and piping.

for the rest of you LS1 conversion guys that need an intake setup I will let this one go for $150 shipped. Should not be an issue for the front mount radiator setups. I do like the look and imagine it will work pretty damn good having the air filters on both sides of the intake.

First picture is without the MAF and second is with the MAF

My loss your gain..






Old 06-01-2010, 03:44 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #246 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KobaltBlau View Post
Braking will generate more Gs than acceleration even in this beast so I'm not convinced the rear sump (as installed in a 911) is an advantage. Baffles are a good thing though.
I agree with you that braking does generate more Gs. But the engine RPMs are also in a deceleration mode...most of the time (especially if we're talking a street vehicle). On the other hand, while accelerating, you're more likely to be spinning-up the RPMs much higher and will be in a much more oil deprived situation versus braking. I'd choose a front-sump as the lesser of two evils.

As for this build...Todd you're the man! I love what you're doing and the progress you're making. I'm inspired and am watching and learning from you as you go so that it'll be easier on me as I do my own conversion. Can't wait to see it all unfold.
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:33 AM
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1 week away from getting to start the LS2 engine. The front cover and CAM sensor was back ordered at GM but shows up at my door on Wednesday

The Lingenfelter 58X to 24X reluctor box did however show up before the weekend so I was able to finish all the electrical connections and add high temp look to all wires.







Old 06-06-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hey Todd, I just signed up for Holley's LS Fest in Bowling Green, KY. Three days of all things LS powered. My car is not 100% ready, but it will be by September. They even have a
'non-domestic' category for the likes of us.

Don't make me be the only LS powered 911 on the track

Mike
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:28 AM
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Its Alive!! and just in time for fathers day

I still have some testing of the radiator to do but I was able to drive around the block and the coolant temps seems to stay steady at 198~199F while driving and in idle. Considering that the outside temps in Tampa today were 96F my first impressions are good. I need to do some research on LS1 Tech to determine what these engines like to see for the coolant and oil temps.



Old 06-20-2010, 03:29 PM
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Happy Father's Day! Glad to hear that engine roar! I couldn't wait for the next post and arriving today was a nice surpise! I'm hoping to do the same with my 89 911 Carrera and G50 Tranny up here in NY. I'm new here and really like that rear radiator! Good luck in your 90+ weather. Please give us the details in the next few days on how the engine and heat/cooling is working! Congrads!

Yan
Old 06-20-2010, 05:22 PM
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Getting great feedback on the forums and plan to drain the current radiator fluid/ water mix to measure how much fluid my system holds. Also going to re-fill with distilled water and Dexcool and do a couple of different test. I did decide to add an adjustable thermostat to give me more control over the fan on temps, currently coming on around 180F. I hard wired it so that the fans continue to run when the car is turned off, only runs for a couple of minutes so no worries on killing the battery

First test: 20min idle time while sitting in the garage with no incoming air. Fan's pulling in air and pushing over the intake and engine. Temp range after heated up was 198~205F. Average coolant temp after warmed up stayed at 200F.

I think I will get better results by reversing the fans to take heat out of the engine compartment. The fans are defiantly pushing some air and I can feel plenty of heat being drawn thru the radiator.

Unfortunately I have business travel in Europe over the next 2 weeks so have to put the project on hold again until I get back.


Old 06-22-2010, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanghai_todd View Post
First test: 20min idle time while sitting in the garage with no incoming air. Fan's pulling in air and pushing over the intake and engine. Temp range after heated up was 198~205F. Average coolant temp after warmed up stayed at 200F.

I think I will get better results by reversing the fans to take heat out of the engine compartment. The fans are defiantly pushing some air and I can feel plenty of heat being drawn thru the radiator.
Hey Todd...I may be wrong about this, but I don't think wiring the fans to blow out is a good idea. The Turbo Porsche is designed to draw air into the engine compartment at speed. Remember, it was originally designed for an air-cooled engine w/intercooler.

Also, there's possibly a low pressure area beneath the car, so blowing air "OUT" might not even be possible...especially at speed. This would only exacerbate the situation and cause the water temps to rise since no air will be traveling over the radiator fins.

I may be off-base about this...someone chime in and give their opinion.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSX Fan View Post
Hey Todd...I may be wrong about this, but I don't think wiring the fans to blow out is a good idea. The Turbo Porsche is designed to draw air into the engine compartment at speed. Remember, it was originally designed for an air-cooled engine w/intercooler.

Also, there's possibly a low pressure area beneath the car, so blowing air "OUT" might not even be possible...especially at speed. This would only exacerbate the situation and cause the water temps to rise since no air will be traveling over the radiator fins.

I may be off-base about this...someone chime in and give their opinion.
That was my first thought also, but figured he would try it and figure it out-may not be able to achieve high enough speeds on county roads to matter..........
Old 06-24-2010, 11:10 PM
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There is the concern that the incoming air flow from the top could cause negative resistance on the fans when blowing out. Guess I will need to determine what the less of the two evils are. Probably not relying on the fans is the best solution so the heat can rise naturally and out of the engine compartment.



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That was my first thought also, but figured he would try it and figure it out-may not be able to achieve high enough speeds on county roads to matter..........
Old 06-25-2010, 05:49 AM
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Todd,
That's a beautiful thing! I'm watching your conversion carefully as I plan on starting my LS1 swap in to my 89 Cab in the fall. I've got my long block and the Edelbrock/MSD carb'ed conversion ready to go but I had one quick question, what oil pan did you end up going with?
Old 06-27-2010, 09:24 AM
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No updates: Been on business travel and vacation the past 3 weeks and head to Shanghai on Wednesday.. Plan of attack when I return is to shroud the radiator, add a bigger oil cooler to increase capacity and cooling.

I did however take the car for a spin to the gas station and the coolant temp remains steady at 200F with the fans coming on around 190F.
Old 07-11-2010, 12:08 PM
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OK could not wait 2 weeks till I return from Shanghai and decided to move forward with shrouding the radiator. Went to Home Depot this morning and purchased a piece of sheet metal 24"X24" and a good pair of tin snips

The results were surprising and actually lowered the operating temperatures by 5 degrees. Outside temps in Tampa today around 94F and with the car parked in the garage idling for 20min the coolant temps remained at 195F with no overheating.

Following the addition of the radiator shroud I have taken 3 test drives for 10min each time and under regular driving conditions the temp raises to around 200~205.

During my 2nd and 3rd test drive I decided to see what she had a did a quick launch till 50MPH and damn could I feel the 400+ HP... The power acceleration in these motors are awesome and so smooth.. The sound of the exhaust and air being sucked into the intake filter is not like a Vette, Camaro or any other V8 I have herd, a very unique sound for a unique car..

2 Problems noted:
(1) Rear Suspension dips entirely to much under accelerating. Not a bad problem to have when you start reaching 400+ HP. I also noticed my rear end had dropped about 1" from the additional weight so coilovers may be my solution to aid the extra weight and dips at take-off.

(2) 1st gear tranny hop The Kevlar clutch is taking some time to get a feel for and if I do not time it just perfect I get a bad shake/hop. Starting out in 2nd seems to work much better. Hopefully once the break-in period is completed this will go away or become much easier. I remember on my 300+ HP Miata having a un-sprung Kevlar disk and it was a B*%CH to drive..

Here are some pics of the shroud work..









Old 07-12-2010, 06:28 PM
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todd, need to get rid of the kevlar clutch. you do not need that for 400 hp. call monty at kep and he can fix you up...no affiliation. i am certain that lots of others can recommend a better clutch surface for street use.
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Old 07-13-2010, 02:01 AM
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you should get more than 400 hp with a LS1 and a LS6 intake. Too bad the exhaust is soo restrictive. My roommate has a LS1 that puts 420 to the wheels and is not built very strong. Those motors and monsters.

It's cool to see this in the works.

How long has it taken you with how much work? i.e. "6 months, 10 hoursevery weekend."
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Old 07-13-2010, 12:15 PM
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