Any tips for removing Tie rods?

[jasonmx5]

I'm trying to get my car back on the road now that the weather is improving. Last fall the car failed inspection for a bad tie rod, which I had suspected anyway, so I've purchased the turbo tie-rod kit from our hosts. I'm having issues removing the threaded end of the tie rod where it screws into the steering rack and am about to resort to just removing the entire rack unless someone can offer a better solution. I've already removed the under tray, sway bar.

Car is a 1977 Carrera 3.0 if that helps.

[Rot 911]

As you are replacing the entire rod, just use a pipe wrench. It will give you better leverage than any other tool.

[whiskyb]

Not sure if it helps or not. I just did the conversion on my 69 and I did have the rack out at the time and in a vice. Both sides have right hand thread and although at first I was afraid of hurting something inside the rack a good twist and they broke free. Tightening up the new ones was a chore until I got the right size wrench. I used loctite on the threads.

[scarceller]

Spray it real good with PB Blast, let sit overnight then try again. If that does not work try heating the nut with a torch it will cause the nut to expand and this may help.

[KFC911]

What Kurt said...since you're replacing it, just put a pipe wrench on there and that will give you plenty of leverage for removal without even needing PB Blaster.

[Superman]

I think the stock rods have a U-shaped join near the inboard end. So......you can use the rod itself as a lever. The turbo tie-rods have a ball joint, so this method would not work for install. For install, the special tool is nice to have.

[chris.817]

I used a chisel on the little cutout for the wrench. A light tap or two popped them loose.

[jsmithcds]

You will have to get your knuckles bleeding first. Use the tie rod itself along with the pipe wrench. Getting the wrench situated will be the challenge. It took me a bloody fist a good deal of cursing and a whole lot of shoulder into it. Of course the first one came out easy....... But the second one, ***** man. Good luck.

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by chris.817

I used a chisel on the little cutout for the wrench. A light tap or two popped them loose.

that's what i do. long screwdriver and a fat hammer. retract the rack all the way when you do each side so it's less springy.

[signature65]

I had the factory tie rods in my 73 and recently did the turbo upgrade......I used the tie rod itself for the leverrage.......unhook it from the spindle......bend it down at its joint and use it as a breaker bar......worked like a charm for me. No chisle no screwdriver just the leverage.

[jasonmx5]

I tried using the tie rod itself but there just doesn't seem to be enough room to rotate it around after it's perpendicular to the rack in order to turn it. Too much in the way (body, brake lines, etc.) to turn it anywhere once I've got it. Looks like I may have to go the route of just removing the rack. That seems easy enough and will give me all the room I need.

Thanks!

[chris.817]

Jason,

Try the chisel/hammer. I fought with mine for hours and gave up. Went back, decided this was a last resort, and got out the hammer. Worked like a charm. Light tap and done.

Chris

[john walker's workshop]

don't be pulling the rack for a simple tierod swap. that's like pulling the engine for spark plugs. use the hammer/chisel method.

[burgermeister]

I'd take the boot off and hold the rack with a wrench - it has 2 flats. More leverage (you can squeeze two wrenches together) and you're not putting silly loads into the pinion & puck, which are the only things keeping the rack from turning along its axis.

[Green 912]

Originally Posted by burgermeister

I'd take the boot off and hold the rack with a wrench - it has 2 flats. More leverage (you can squeeze two wrenches together) and you're not putting silly loads into the pinion & puck, which are the only things keeping the rack from turning along its axis.

Bingo. I like to set the two wrenches so all you need to do is grip them both and squeeze to torque the rods off. No loads into the rack and you can make a lot of torque.

[janz]

I bought a set of farm wrenches from harbor freight for $30. They range from like 20mm to 38mm but have short handles. They have been very valuable in many tasks that require the larger metric openings. Just grind the sides a little and they fit the flat spots nicely. If you need more leverage just put a large socket with 1/2" extension over the handle. For the price they've been a great purchase. Worked great for getting at the large nuts on the oil cooling lines, even on the limited adjusters for the spring plates. Anyways these are what I used to remove the old tie rods and install the turbos.

[john walker's workshop]

turbo tie rod inners have a flat, but originals do not. hammer and chisel/punch/big screwdriver in the notch, bingo, job done.

[jasonmx5]

Well believe it or not, I went the route of removing the rack. Wasn't all that bad actually. Sure enough, once I had it out and in a vice, I used a pipe wrench on the spacer/lock nut thingy where the outer boot spring mounts and they were off in about 2 seconds each. Got the rack back in, new tie rods on and should be able to wrap it all up tomorrow. I started at about 9:00, had a few distractions (dinner, beers, etc.), but finally feel like I'm getting somewhere. If all goes well with the other bits I have in line, the car should be back on the road by the end of next week.

Thanks for all the advice!