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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,964
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Alum. crossmember - paint it?
I've got all my parts back from the blaster, and will be painting soon (I'm dying to get my car back on the road, but with a new little one it's been hard to find the time to complete the project). Everything is so nice and clean!!!
The crossmember is very clean, but has that dull, just blasted look to it. Do I leave it? Paint it an aluminum color? Thanks,
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'81 SC |
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Less brakes, more gas!
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You could have it anodized if you really wanted to... Black, clear, red, green, yellow, purple, whatever... I would NOT paint it except for clear coat as a last resort. You could probably powder coat it too, but at least with anodizing the surface hardness is increased greatly and it does not chip
![]() Best regards, Michael
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![]() ![]() '82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah '13 Cayenne GTS |
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RETIRED
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Wire brush it....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Quad Cities IA
Posts: 1,238
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Spray it clear.
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Jay '08 E350 Wagon '74 914 gone '72 T gone |
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Registered
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either get it clear anodized or spray it clear
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1970 914-6 street"evil cockaroach" 1970 911 Targa "ST" Jade Green IROC Tribute (ready to race) |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Leuven, Belgium. Home of Stella-Artois
Posts: 665
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Recycling an older thread. I'm thinking about having clear/colorless powdercoating applied to my crossmember. Anybody else done this? Is it safe (I guess it is) to powdercoat this part?
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Champaign and Burgundy 3.2 (1986) Ex-C4 91 Ex C4 93 A8 3.0 TDI X5 |
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Almost Banned Once
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You could pain it with a POR15 paint but not the normal one a lot of people here use.
They have another product called "Glister PC" It's a two component clear coat that can be brushed or sprayed on. A pint is... $34.50 (More than enough to do your cross member) http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/ |
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Registered
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It's safe to powdercoat the part if the shop is familiar with PC-ing aluminum.
I'd just leave it alone (not finish it) as it's going to get very dirty very quickly. That said, I POR-15'd (and paint) my F control arms when I installed the ER Poly bronze bushings ... they needed it. ![]() |
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PMB Performance
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If you could find a shop with a vibrating bead polisher/de-burrer you could drop it in there for about 15-20 minutes. Then I would anodize it. Aluminum can pit. Anodizing will prevent that. Anodizing dulls the finish as well which is why I recommend dropping it in a bead tub for a few minutes first, especially if you concerned with it's current appearance.
Otherwise, bolt it on the car and neer look at it again.
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Eric Shea - PMB Performance 855-STOP-101 We Restore Vintage Calipers www.pmbperformance.com Last edited by Eric_Shea; 03-29-2009 at 03:54 PM.. |
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grateful user
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x mem
if its dull they used a to course of medium, glass beads will make it shiny alum.
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fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do. |
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AutoBahned
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post pics if you do anything to it
I'd think paint or pc might mess up the seating of the Elph. mounts if that is a concern for you. I cleaned mine in solvent, but I don't crawl under the car to admire the parts finish very often... |
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