Clutch Emergency

[82SC]

driving home today I shift into first to hear the gear RUBBING together...being familiar with the 915 I knew I must not be pushing the clutch all the way or thatI was not pusshing the clutch for a long enough time for my drive train to spin down, so I took care the next light and again horrible grinding!!!

So with much grief thinking about how much a 915 trade in at Vertex is...I suddenly figured it out...I had to literally mash the clutch pedal to the floor till my but was out of the seat, and that fully disengaged the clutch and I could shift as usual again...

what is the fix? sounds like my clutch is out of adjustment...had my clutch cable done 1 year ago...should I take it back to the shop or can I do this on my own?

thanks

MJ

[FRED/LI]

Good chance it's the pedal assembly. Roll pin holding it together is shearing off.

[Jdub]

You can do this yourself, but it helps if you are set up to lift the rear of the car. Or, at least get enough room under the trans that you can work in comfort. The sheared pin is a solid theory, and really the entire clutch action depends on pedal 'box bushings/pin/adjustment (via rubber stop), clutch cable and its adjustment, and ease of horseshoe spring movement: this is the "foot" end of things. Turning to the "hand" side, the shift bushing, tunnel bush, coupler, and whatnot. But I digress...

You need a manual---do you have one? The basic steps to adjust your 915 clutch are to unhook your clutch cable from under the trans (pry the lever forward until it snaps forward). Snap lever back again. Create a 1.2mm feeler blade from two smaller ones and set your clearance between the adjusting bolt and the lever machined face. Rehook clutch cable to lever (again, pry forward, then snap it back after cable is on). Now readjust your setting to 1.0. That should be enough preload.

With you under the car measuring the distance (see manual), have someone push the clutch pedal in. Distance of travel between resting and full in should match spec (??2.5cm??). Adjust your rubber stop to achieve this distance.

Or just use the Pelican Parts procedure!!

Good luck,
John

[82SC]

what is the pedal assembly theory?

How can I check this...

the problem is intermitant...on my commute this morning, even a REALLY hard push did not allow for a normal shift...I had to pull out with 2nd gear...it was ugly....

After back dating the exhaust I did notice the heat exchanger and the horseshoe spring were hitting each other...but they were just rubbing...and the way they were conflicting, I would think the clutch would not engage properly but disengage okay...the my problem is the opposite...the clutch does not disengage properly...any thoughts?

[82SC]

help anyone...I have to get back into my car in 1 hour...and drive it all the way home!!!

[nhromyak]

If worse comes to worse. You can start and drive in second without changing gears. Assuming you do not need to be on the freeway, and your engine starts relatively easily.

I had to do this on my '73 (pedal bushing broke), and my '85 (clutch fork cracked).


Make sure no one is in front of you for 10-20 yards.

Put the car in second.
Keep the clutch out (as if you have a choice).
Start the car up, you will be jerked a little and start to go forward.
You may need to be on the starter for a little while.
When you notice the engine is alive and powering the car let it run.
You will now be going forward at a moderate rate (~10 mph).

You can chug around town like this. Try to match your green lights so you do not need to stop and do this all over again.
If your really good, you can try and match the RPMs and synchros up with third gear and shift.

This can be hard on your starter.
You decide if you want to chance your starter or call a tow.


------------------
Nick Hromyak
'85 Carrera 7 & 9 Fuchs
Havin' Fun in Sacramento