Rerouting oil lines

ossiblue · 04-14-2009, 08:51 AM

I have a 73.5 with a front oil cooler set up using 74+ hard lines and external thermostat. My problem is the car does not have the indent along the longitudinal for the hard lines back to the oil tank and engine as do the later cars so the clearance for the rear wheel is only about 1/4", even with a spacer. As I plan to add 7X15 Fuchs, I want to use flex lines and route them from the thermostat, around the top of the wheel well, and down to the tank and engine.

I plan to use metric to AN fittings (from BAT) and 12-AN ss flex lines. For the line to the tank, will a 90 degree fitting at the t-stat and another 90 at the tank work?
Will there be clearance problems?

I have a front cross over pipe from the engine. Will 90 degree connectors at each of the ends (t-stat and cross over pipe) work here as well? I plan to put a "big loop" in the line like the factory to connect to the engine pipe.

I have searched several threads about this but am not too clear on the actural fittings and clearances. I would appreciate any information from those who have done this and any advice as to changes to be made.

Thanks in advance.

ossiblue · 04-16-2009, 07:28 AM

Bump for a new day.

Anybody....?

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

It's trial and error in my experience.....have you considered using heavy duty soft lines throughout? Gives you a lot more wiggle room.

Also, AN fittings are a lot cheaper and I have used conversion (AN-Metric) where needed.

ossiblue · 04-16-2009, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the reply Mike. I do plan to use the flex lines from the thremostat rearward only because the rigid system, forward, is one I prefer. Do you mean a different type of flex line, like rubber?

If my plan works, then the only connectors needed will be the conversion fittings (the 90's). I hadn't thought about the price of 12-AN adaptors (female/male) and using AN 90's.

Thanks again.

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

I've used heavy duty truck hydraulic lines with slip on fittings in my 356 Speedster replica. It's held up even when I blew an oil cooler at start up when the thermostat failed and sent a big slug of cold oil to the aftermarket POS cooler from CB Performance. I lost 6 quarts of oil on the garage floor....what a PITA.

Lot's more economical and easy to use. Not as pretty as braided aircraft lines and the bling bling anodized fittings but these were run under the rocker panels and out of sight....

DW SD · 04-16-2009, 09:14 AM

L.J,
I did what you suggest on one of my soft oil lines in the rear. Mine is -16AN with metric adaptor fittings from Patrick Motorsports on both ends. They are the cheapest I could find. OR you could use the metrick hose ends for -16AN sold by BATINC.

I think it is the line leaving the sump. And yes, the line went up and over. I had sufficient clearance with the other factor line to use that. I actually put an inline Petersen oil filter in too, just in case the motor grenades.

I installed rivnuts to retain everything with adel clamps.

DW SD · 04-16-2009, 09:19 AM

Mine is exactly like this: http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/project/image/362/

Doug

ossiblue · 04-16-2009, 10:12 AM

Thanks for the input, guys. Some questions:

Doug, the picture you show has the indent on the longitudinal and my car doesn't. How did you get the clearance on your 71 and keep the line to the tank (lower line) as shown?

You used 16-AN. Is that the size shown in the photo?

DW SD · 04-17-2009, 07:15 AM

LJ-
Yes, that looks like -16 in the photo. I've read enough threads on this topic to suggest use of -16 instead of 12. ID on -12 could be restrictive.

I did not have the indent, but lowered the car onto its wheels at ride height and then moved the line until it had clearance. It was not uniform between the inner fender and wheel. I maximized clearance. I run 17" Lindseys with custom offsets, but also use 1/4" spacer, which I planned to make sure I could clear the calipers.

To retain the hoses, I used rivnuts and adel clamps, once I had determined the optimum location. I think yours will work, too.

I'm 30 minutes south of you in Encinitas. Would checking out mine help?

Doug

ossiblue · 04-17-2009, 09:59 AM

Doug,

Hey, any excuse to go to Encinitas is great! Thanks for the information, it's just what I need to know before ordering parts. I plan to use 7X15 Fuchs with 205's and right now, with 6X15's and 195's and a 1/4' spacer, the clearance is very tight, but no rubbing. I'm afraid if I don't reroute the line to the tank, I won't have the clearance needed with the new tire/wheel combo and adding a larger spacer will cause problems on the outside fender opening.

Couple more questions. You apparently used metric to AN adaptors on the male ends of the thermostat and sump pipe, then used 16AN fitting on the hose instead of just using the AN to Metric fittings. Was that due to costs?

Also, there is a male adaptor on the sump pipe and a forged 90 on the line to the thermostat. Again, was that a cost factor or did you need clearance from the pipe before the 90 degree connector could be installed?

Thanks again for all your help. I think I will go with 16AN on both lines but I'm going to eyeball the clearance of the factory to tank line first. If I can't convince myself what to do, I'd like to take you up on a first person view of your set-up. I'll PM you if that's o.k.

DW SD · 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ossiblue

Doug,

Hey, any excuse to go to Encinitas is great! Thanks for the information, it's just what I need to know before ordering parts. I plan to use 7X15 Fuchs with 205's and right now, with 6X15's and 195's and a 1/4' spacer, the clearance is very tight, but no rubbing. I'm afraid if I don't reroute the line to the tank, I won't have the clearance needed with the new tire/wheel combo and adding a larger spacer will cause problems on the outside fender opening.

***I'm pretty sure the Porsche wheels use similar backspacing independent of overall width, so they don't additionally encroach upon the bodywork when they get wider. In other words going to 7" from 6" will likely just increase the wheel 1" outside of the bolting flange. The 9" rear turbo wheel fits under SC flares, I'm almost certain. You can find a chart from Bill Verburg around Pelican about wheel fitment.

Couple more questions. You apparently used metric to AN adaptors on the male ends of the thermostat and sump pipe, then used 16AN fitting on the hose instead of just using the AN to Metric fittings. Was that due to costs?

***Yes, it was cheaper to buy the adaptors and use common -16 fittings (Earl's, Russell's, Summit's - knock offs) than use the all in one hose ends from BATINC.

Also, there is a male adaptor on the sump pipe and a forged 90 on the line to the thermostat. Again, was that a cost factor or did you need clearance from the pipe before the 90 degree connector could be installed?

***Patrick sells the adaptors and that is a shot of one of their projects. I'm sure it is a cost issue, but also a parts availability issue. They probably sells AN hose ends, too, so they could source right from a parts - bin, most likely.

Thanks again for all your help. I think I will go with 16AN on both lines but I'm going to eyeball the clearance of the factory to tank line first. If I can't convince myself what to do, I'd like to take you up on a first person view of your set-up. I'll PM you if that's o.k.

***Glad to help!

Answers inline above in blue italics.

Doug