Wow, that certainly makes me feel better re: the transmission.

Since I have everything to do the job out and I'm not feeling motivated to clean up, I'm heading out for one more bleed. Another thing that makes me believe that there might still be some air in the system is that I'm only getting Super Blue through the bleeder and none of the Valvoline that I've fed it today. Of course, it's possible that the blue just is more of a dominant color than the tan Valvoline but what do I know?

I figure I've got everything out and I've become pretty good at bleeding the slave cylinder after two shots at it in three days. Won't get to drive it tonight but will report back when I drive it this week.

Just bled the system again and got just a bit of air out of it. I think I'm on the right path but, until I'm positive I have no air in the system or have a long drive with a stable clutch, I'll still have the question.

I hope to see some of you at Hershey as I'm making the trip up from VA Saturday morning.

I've always had good luck bleeding the clutch w/out needing to pump. I've bled my clutch on this car at least a dozen times and as i've learned a good routine to do it, I haven't found it absolutely necessary to pump the pedal. I'm not saying pumping the pedal is wrong, because it's fine to to that. Just like doing the brakes, pumping the pedal can be helpful to dislodge air bubbles. The thing that makes it tough is the slave cylinder is barely below the elevation of the reservoir in the trunk. So when you raise up only the rear, it's tougher to get the fluid to flow and push out the air. It seems the use of four jack stands at all corners may be more helpful than we may think? I think the key is also not to be afraid to use plenty of pressure in the pressure bleeder to bleed the clutch.

RE: trans. noise. These trans. just seem to be noisy, but not all are. Mine was actually quite quiet until I started driving it regularly at the track. The hard driving caused my trans. to start grinding 2nd & 3rd gear when temps get higher on hot days, plus the trans also does the idling /neutral noise now. But i've seen at least four of these transmissions, all track driven, that exhibit this noise and they just keep on going. One has 160K+ miles on it and just keeps on going. Point being, don't get too concerned about this noise.

RE: Filling trans. Just gotta be careful to watch how much overfill. Harder operation that raises temps will possibly cause the trans to overflow out of the vent in the top of the case (if it's not currently clogged with dirt). I've also noticed some conflicting information on how much is the capacity. Some sources say 3.5 qts. and some say 3 qts. I recall using 3 one quart bottles when filling mine and having just enough to make it spill out the fill hole. So i'd have to say 3.5 is incorrect, but not overly excessive if one wants to try the overfill idea to quiet it down.

Well, it stopped raining here in Richmond so I was finally able to drive the car after the second 'successful' slave bleeding. I'm happy to report that the clutch made it the whole way to work without changing its characteristics (i.e. getting mushy, excessive play at rest) so I'm thinking I may have a winner.

Needless to say, I'll be keeping an eye on it but may just bite the bullet for a new clutch solely for the comfort factor of knowing all is well there.

During this process, I've found a few other things that need to be addressed / looked after such as potential oil consumption and the front caliper issue (noted earlier in this thread).

It's all a big learning curve for me at this point because I haven't even put 2 full tanks of gas through the car since I've owned it. Because of this short tenure, I won't even go into detail on the oil since I don't have a baseline of exactly how full the tank was when I got it.

I'm still on the fence about Hershey at this point since the wife and I did our final 'it's over' this week and I'm not sure I want to be back in PA. If I make it though, I'll be easy to spot since I'd be willing to bet I'm the only Baltic Blue 3.2 in the lot.

[QUOTE=RacerX1166;4615384]
8) talk to the slave like a baby, telling it to get rid of that nasty air for daddy

That was damn funny. LMFAO :D
I thought I was the only one who baby talks to my car.

I've got myself pretty fouled up with bleeding the clutch, advice requested:
-No leaks at Clutch Master Cylinder
-No leaks at Clutch Slave Cylinder

I've tried all the bleeding methods list on this thread, and the thread listed within this tread. But, I can't get any air and a very little bit of fluid out of the slave cylinder. Motive bleeder with fluid in it, pressurized to 10, the 15, the 20 psi. Clutch pedal is floppy.

A short time ago the roll pin in the clutch pedal failed. I replaced it, and had initial resistance in the clutch pedal ( I figured it was because I cleaned it all out), but then was fine for 2-3 weeks of weekend driving.

Lots of pumping, clutch pedal and Motive Bleeder, but nothing! This first time I did this 2 years ago, I used the Motive, no pedal, and flushed the nasty coffee-colored fluid out with no problems.

Can the master or slave be bad without leaking?

Any advice would certainly be appreciated, DE next weekend!

NO LIFT,

Absolutely the slave or master can be bad w/out leaking. I'd disconnect the slave from the trans, and then disconect the slave from the system at the body of the slave. Manually operate the slave pushrod and feel for how smooth it moves.

If all seems okay, use a small amount of pressure (try 5 psi to start) to see if you get fluid out of the supply line. Hold the line upward so gravity doesn't fool you into thinking that the pressure bleeder is pressuring fluid from the line.

Thanks, I'll give it a try!

Revisiting this issue with an update. The car wound up sitting for around two weeks due to various factors. When I got in and started her up, we were pretty much back to square one in terms of weak pedal, not fully returning, etc. As noted, after two good bleedings, the pedal was great.

So, next step.....master?

Granted, it will likely be awhile until I can complete an additional repair due to having to lose the car for a week for body work and not having money due. It's funny, the wife is managing to bleed the money from my wallet with a totally different tool; an attorney.

I'd check for a leak somewhere first? Take a look in the floorboard and also look under the rubber boot on the slave. Also check the flex line that is connected to the slave.

If you decide to do the master, be warned, do NOT let the pedal fall to the floor after you disconnect the supply and discharge lines from the master cylinder body. If you bump and and it drops like a rock to the floor, it'll shoot brake fluid all over the footwell area (and your face). Been there, done that! After you get the lines disconnected, you have to put a paper towel around the discharge port and catch the fluid that's expelled when you slowly control the downward movement of the pedal to the floor. Move the pedal up and down a few time to expel most of the fluid from the master and then you can begin removal of the master from the pedal box.

I'll do the leak checking next opportunity I can muster to get under the car.
The level in the reservoir hasn't changed though.
If no leak is found, does the master sound like the next likely candidate?

Slaves are typically more prone to failure than masters. Just like brake calipers need more attention than the brake master. I'd check the slave first.

There's really only two potential problems- master or slave. But also take a look at the flex line that the slave is connected to. If it's compromised, it could produce a mushy pedal. But it's probably not likely since you had a hard pedal for a while.

Thanks Kevin. I guess I need to tear a few things apart and get under the car for some recon work.

Houston, we have progress. I finally had the time to pull some things apart today and it's pretty obvious the master cylinder cylinder is the culprit. Either it's bad or unhappily weeping due to not being driven a lot lately.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243106028.jpg

Will be placing an order with our host for a new one as well as a pair of calipers for the front to remedy the seizing problem. Yes, I know I could rebuild them but my luck has been miserable lately and I'd prefer to just replace and be done with it. My new pressure bleeder will be getting a workout.

Once I address the ding in the top and get my a/c recharged, I'll be golden. I realize that the a/c is a losing battle since it's substandard to begin with and I don't have barrier hoses but, with impending spousal support, I just can't fund all of these items this year. I believe I can get through the summer with the current a/c setup with a fresh charge. The unit was installed and charged in November right before I picked up the car. During the heat wave in late April, the air coming out was mildly cold and now, it's ambient temp. That says to me that I've likely never felt it at full charge. Next year, I'll look at installing a real system.

For the moment, I'm just looking forward to having some confidence in my clutch.